IanC
-
Posts
16 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by IanC
-
-
I hope my description below makes sense. I've taken several attempts at re-wording it.
I'm rebuilding the leaf spring on my 1500 spitfire and I have a question.
The bottom side of the bottom spring has a stud that locates into the diff' and on the top side there's another stud which sits proud of the lower plate when that's in place. The tube/spacer for the centre bolt sits on top of that stud and is held in place by the kink in the safety spring.
This means that there is a gap between the spacer and the plate (see photo) and that the lower plate can move around (until the studs and pivot box are fitted). Also that any pressure on the spacer is concentrated on the small area where it touches the stud whereas I would have though it should have been across the length of the spacer?
What is the Iower plate for? It seems to be merely a locating plate for the studs?
I don't think I've missed out anything in the rebuild....
My picture of the original shows the gap between the plate and the spacer.
Spacer sat on top of inner stud.
-
All,
I injected 40ml of oil into the Oil pressure take off and filled the filter. Lost a bit when putting it back on but a few turns and pressure built up. After that it was back in with the plugs and then she was off and running.Thanks for your feedback and ideas.Ian
-
Folks,
Apologies for my tardiness in responding. Thank you one and all.
The engine is original, hasn't been restored or anything of that sort.
Ref determining no pressure, I have the standard green light and a pressure gauge. It would be co-incidence (but not impossible) for them both to fail. The filter doesn't have any drain back valves.
Dave.vitesse mentioned removing the dist'r so I think I'll try that along with Sparky's suggestion.
Also, Pete Lewis, how do I back fill the pump please?
Ian
-
Hello all, hoping someone can help me for an issue with my resto' engine
My spitfire 1500 has always been a good starter, taking only a few seconds of cranking to get some pressure, albeit a bit low when running.
I recently went to start it after am winter layoff and for the first time ever I decided to squirt some WD40 down the bores before cranking over (without plugs in).
Ever since then I can't get any oil pressure at all. I'm obviously reticent to keep turning the engine ad infinitum and haven't put the plugs in to see if it would start and build pressure that way.
I can't see how the WD40 could have scuppered my pressure but could it though?
Is it possible to test the oil pump is working?
Any other hints, tips or ideas?
Cheers,
Ian.
-
Mine had the felt glued into the cups 😞. Assumed the stuff from Rimmers would be good quality.
Took a pair of scissors to the felts and trimmed 'em back. Has done the trick, no more rubbing but the gap is probably three rizla's.
All re-built and rotating as smooth as silk.
Cheers once again for your words gents.
Have a good weekend all.
-
Cheers all.
I'll measure the thickness of the felt and will try with the old felts.
Pete Lewis, yes the cups are the right way, good thinking though. Got my new felts from Rimmers and I've had to remove the felts from their metal cups as they wouldn't drift in.
Pete Truman, I'm going to give that a go as well.
Wish me Luck 🙂
IaN
-
I've stripped, blasted and refitted the front suspension. No new bearings or cups but new felt washers for which I've had to re-use the existing seats.
When I came to refit the brake caliper the near-side disc now rubs on the caliper and the off-side has only a small gap. 😞
The dust shield is sandwiched between the vertical link and the caliper.
Looking at it logically, because the caliper is bolted to the link it is in a fixed position so it seems to me that the issue is with the hub/disc and that it is not sitting far enough back on the stub axle. I've had several attempts at getting it back together and the result is always the same.
Any ideas please folks?
What should have been a morning's work has dragged on for a month.
Signed,
Frustrated of Frilsham,
-
Pete & Colin,
Appreciate the responses gents. I'm happy there was no washer between the link and the arm in the first place.
Pete,
I think you responded to an earlier question from myself. Thanks again 🙂
Colin,
Where did your picture come from please?
Enjoy what's left of your weekend gents.
Ian
-
Pete,
Thanks for the link. Will add that to my list of info sites. Canley don't show the washer between the link and the arm so I'm confident there wasn't one there. They do show one under the nut though and I'm 99% sure I didn't have one so I'm going to add one.
Cheers sir.
Ian
-
All,
Thanks for reading.
I've recently completely dismantled the front suspension, meticulously placing all the nuts, bolts, washers etc into labelled chinese take-away tubs.
I'm now re-building and have hit a snag. When I've checked the diag's of the setup for the stub axles they all show washers between the back of the vertical links and the steering arms and also between the steering arm and the nut on the end of the stub axle (Rimmers diag part number WC112081).
I don't have any washers in my tubs so I'm wondering if the diag's are wrong or have I lost all four washers somehow.
Can you help please?
Thanks in hope.
Ian
-
Just had exactly the same issue even though my gaiters were sourced from Rimmers. Spent an hour on it getting no-where
Managed to get it on by using three wooden spoons (the one-use variety you got when eating outside during covid) I did a bit of pre-stretching (of the gaiter) and then inserted the bowls of the three spoon into the gaiter neck and then slid the well greased gaiter up and over. Took me 5 minutes. Well chuffed!!
P.S. the wooden knives, forks and coffee stirrers are also very useful for scraping without scratching.
Weasel.
-
Justb started my restorartion. Plenty to do? That's a understatement 😄
Cheers.
Ian
-
Pete, thanks for the comment. Worked a treat. Both sides off and fully dismantled now. 🙂
Johny, are you refering to the Triumph Repair Operation Manual?
-
As much as I dislike spending more than I have too I'd probably go for the more expensive one on the basis of lasting longer (presumably) thereby saving me time later on.
-
Folks,
First attempt at requesting help via the forum. Hopefully someone can help or confirm my fears.....
I'm trying to remove the lower wishbones of my Spitfire 1500 and all is going well so far. The nuts are removed no problem but the left hand bolt (on both sides) is on the inside of the wishbone. This means I can't remove it because it hits the engine mounting plates on the chassis.
Apart from hacksawing the bolts I can't see any alternative. Am I being a bit thick and missing a trick?
Has anyone had experience of this and can offer any advice?
Thanks for any feedback
IanC
Spitfire 1500 leaf-spring rebuild -
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
All,
Cheers for the replies. It's a great source of information when you're all so knowledgeable and helpful in responding. It's what helps to define TSSC members,
Further investigation on my part shows that my "top stud" is in face the threaded portion of the diff' locator so I'm going to have another crack at it today.
Once again, cheers all.
IanC