Sandy Gibson

OK It’s confession time! I had the plug leads on wrong! I have spent the last 60 years playing about with mainly Triumph engines and would have bet my bottom dollar that I wouldn’t have done that but it does let you see we can all make stupid basic errors if we get too complacent! Thanks for your help, I’ll go and lie down in a dark room somewhere now!

Had the grose for a while now and pretty sure there OK. Didn’t have the filters on for the initial ( failed!) start.

Thanks Pete Float chambers are filling normally and spark/ignition side is fine. I’ve got Grose valves but unite possible some rubber has found its way to the jet. Many thanks.

I’ve renewed the throttle spindles on my HS2 Mk3. Gave everything a good clean while I was at it and now engine won’t start. Plugs are dry so no fuel getting through Engine was running well before I started so didn’t touch the jets other than to blow them through with carb spray. Float chambers are filling and fuel pump working fine. Pistons are free and operating as normal. All linkages operating fine. I can only think I have somehow blocked the jets in the process of assembly and am about to take them off for a look. Can anyone suggest anything else that may have gone wrong? Seems odd that both carbs seem to be affected. many thanks in advance

Think I’ll try and fill the gaps with some windscreen sealant and keep the rot at bay for a bit longer. It doesn’t leak and normally don’t go out in the rain so should at least look a bit better.

Anyone know of a treatment to stop rubber seal deteriorating. Ive got an original Spitfire Mk3 steel hardtop and the rubber seal is cracking slightly. It’s not leaking and I am reluctant to attempt a replacement as the glass is unobtainable and I don’t want to risk breakage. Ive got an old tube of windscreen mastic that might help but I wonder if anyone has used something better?

My 1296 mk3 Spitfire is 1 7/16” af. I’ve got the correct socket, it’s a 3/4” drive but I have an adaptor to suit.

Regardless of what caused the leak, I would suggest a fuel on/off valve. I have one before my fuel filter and turn off the petrol every time the car goes into the garage. Mainly for safety, but I feel it might help with security as well if anyone tried to steal the car. If it stopped after a few yards they might just abandon it!

Is it possible to replace the body mounts 1 or 2 at a time without completely separating and lifting the whole tub off? When I did my full body off restoration 15 years ago I saved some money (mistake!) by reusing the best of the bushes etc I had from that and a previous restoration. Its running OK, but I’m sure it would be a lot smoother with new bushes. Thanks for all advice as always Sandy

You have to spin the distributor drive ANTI-clockwise to prime the system. You’ll hear the drill noise change when it meets resistance of the oil being forced through. Also, when you are ready to try and start again, give the engine a spin with the starter without the plugs in first.

I had assumed that if the motor spins fast enough to engage the Bendix the solenoid must be OK. Will try a direct feed next time it happens. Thanks Sandy

Thanks Pete. I’m sure I don’t have any coolant leak into the bores (or I’ve got bigger problems than I thought!) It is the intermittent nature of the fault that was throwing me but it does exactly mimic a flat battery so your suggestion sounds good. Sandy

I’m having a starting issue and I’m not sure how to identify the exact problem. When I go to start the engine, sometimes it spins and starts as normal but other times the starter engages but can barely manage a couple of chugs turning the engine. The Bendix gear is new and always engages. The battery is good and all external connections seem to be sound. I suspect the starter motor may be faulty but not sure how to test it. I could do a bench test but I think it would probably only act up under load. I am reluctant to go for a new motor and discover the fault lies elsewhere and having looked a a couple of YouTube videos, I don’t think I’m up for trying a repair myself

Rob Many thanks for that, exactly what I needed. I was concerned that the rear silencer seems to hang a bit low and I was expecting to tuck up closer to the boot floor but I guess that’s just the way it is. Cheers Sandy

Many thanks. If I can even see where the last mount attaches to the underside of the boot floor / rear sill, I can then attach the silencer mounting bracket at that point and I’m sure everything else will fall into place!

Thanks all for help. It is indeed a 1968 Spitfire Mk 3 1296cc engine but I am still having a problem getting the exhaust to fit. First two sections seem OK but I can’t seem to get the end silencer section to fit in. I’m fairly sure I’m being a bit stupid but it is driving me mad! Does anyone have a photo of how the pieces are orientated to fit correctly? Thanks Sandy

After years of annoying the neighbours with a fairly noisy exhaust I have gone for a new standard Mk3 system. Old system was cobbled together with mainly Mk2 pipes and my problem is I don’t know where the standard Mk3 mounts go. I assume the first hanger is off the bell housing but not sure of the next two. My books seem to show a bracket coming off the diff mount but my car hasn’t got that bracket and I’m not sure where it goes. Also the last hanger I guess is suspended from the boot floor? Anyone got any clear drawings or photos? Thanks in advance. Sandy

Pete Had this one running off and on for 15 years and other than an odd fuel hiccup never had a problem, never been stuck. Just never got used to taking it out other than locally. This year I WILL use it more ( and take John’s advice about joining RAC!) Sandy

I’ve got recovery on my insurance. Never had to use it but at least I know I won’t be stranded.

Thanks for that everyone. A long run would be a great idea. If only I was as confident that the rest of the car would make it! Only one way to find out. Cheers Sandy

Just been for a first run with my rebuilt engine. All went well. No leaks and good oil pressure. Engine was rebored and head skimmed. I only do a few hundred miles in a year and I’m not sure how I should run in the engine. 500 miles is going to take me a long time and I’m not getting any younger! Any suggestions on how I might speed up the running in process or should I just forget it and drive as normal (within reason of course!)

Thank Pete I would now like to remove this post and pretend I have never seen it!!!!!!!!!!!

Afternoon all Just refurbished my gear selector but now when I depress the gear lever to select reverse, the pin won’t clear the stop in the casing to allow the lever to the reverse side. Can’t see what I’ve done wrong and I’ve gone back to the original spring and nylon cup but still won’t work! I’m sure I’ve got something wrong somewhere but can’t see it! Anyone got any ideas? Thanks in advance!

Nice clean looking one on e bay at the moment. £45 or offers

On my Mk 111 the caps are marked with punch marks but surprisingly (to me anyway) No 1 is the rear cap and 4 is the front. I expected them to be the the other way round.