Barrykearley

I suspect @PeteH that that may well have been the case. I’ll never know.

Bearing has been shimmed forwards by 3mm. Pivot pin shimmed forwards by 2 washers. Clutch spring plate checked for levels. flywheel removed and missing spigot bearing replaced. Its all back together tonight - just - albeit it with the tunnel and carpets left to put back in. I now have very little play on the arm - and a fantastic operational clutch. The PO had clearly spent a lot on this with a garage - new clutch, master, slave, hydraulic pipe, rebuilt gearbox and was still left with a knackered car - the fault frankly was obvious but I was looking for an exact answer. Clearly there’s something obscure with something in there - and shimming it has just overcome whatever it is. It’s done 750 miles in 4 years he owned it and it was never right. One mans loss is another mans gain 👍.

The arm does not appear distorted or worn. please folks - forget the hydraulics - it’s all new and functions as it should providing plenty of travel. This is simply a case of too much free play before the release bearing touches the clutch spring plate platform.

I’m genuinely at a loss and wanted an exact answer. My buddy at the garage has simply said give up and shim it - stop over thinking it. Fingers crossed the bush appears today. @Ian Smith the clutch pipe is brand new kunifer - travel is great - but the arm runs out of travel when the clutch arm hits the gearbox casing. There’s far far too much free play before the bearing nose touches the clutch sprung platform.

Yes @Pete Lewis I did - and it pretty much tied up with the measurement you provided above. It could be any multitude of things including an over machined flywheel to blame. ive no idea now - I’ve shimmed the bearing and the pivot - fingers crossed once the spigot bush arrives I can trial fit and see if the range of motion is now enough.

Bit of an update - shimmed bearing forwards by 3mm - shimmed pivot pin forwards with a washer. was going to try it back on the car tonight - but thought I’d pull the clutch off to have a check of some of the above numbers. Yeah that put it on job stop - since the pilot spigot bush is simply missing 😳 - thanks go out to the garage that did this for the PO. Just awaiting a delivery now.

When all together - the pushrod does indeed sit up against the arm. Trouble is - the furthest throw of the arm isn’t enough to fully engage the clutch - and the free play on the arm as shown in the video is clearly the issue. That garage that did the for the PO must have known it was plain wrong.

Thanks all. I’m properly puzzled by it all. I can see all so very clearly the huge amount of play in the arm - can physically see the distance between the clutch spring plate and the bearing. I can only see what I have in front of me - and whatever it is right or wrong - the play needs to be removed for the clutch to work.

Scratch that - the GRB209 isnt a flat faced contact bearing. I'm starting to think I have a 2000cc bearing carrier in this car. I’ll pop into a mates machine shop tomorrow and see if he can rattle me up a shim to go between the rear of the bearing I have and the carrier to push it out a few mm.

Old bearing has CT 5466 stamped on it. physically it’s about 68mm outer diameter, 38mm inner diameter, 16mm thick. All approx since I’ve just binned my digital vernier thats refusing to work. This cross refs to a GRB206 bearing and is what should be in the car according to rimmers. It looks about 3mm too thin to me by peering in the bellhousing So tomorrow - I’ll be ordering the GRB209 - since that’s 19.63mm thick according to a dimension I’ve managed to find - and I reckon that’s gonna solve this issue.

@Pete Lewis the bearing is flat faced - that picture doesn’t make it look like it - but it is. It’s 16mm and there’s significant play before that flat face mates with the sprung face of the clutch.

I would expect a MM or two at the pushrod end of the arm - I’ve got absolutely miles of movement. It was about 3mm looking into the gearbox between the bearing and mating face

Fab so I should just be able to pull that pin out and shim it then. I will try and get a thicker bearing tomorrow - but failing that it’s shim time.

And how does that pivot pin come out ? Is it bolted in from behind the bell housing ?

@68vitesse does the carrier in the pic above look correct? If so it would appear I’ve an issue with the bearing. @Pete Lewis any idea of a source for the correct 19mm bearing ? If I can’t - what’s the correct washer thickness to pad out the pivot pin?