foshi

wanted 1500 engine gearbox complete with carbs manifolds

looks right the overrider mounts different on the herald

you dont have anything like a aftermarket boot light switch , or faulty brake light switch you would notice if the brake lights where on though .

sure they did make more 1600 s, a lot had the 1600 engine removed for the 2lt back in the day

had both 1600 and late 2lt the 1600 always seemed the better engine felt quicker and revs more freely might just be me was the latter 1600 1965

back to points had a set of old stock , went for a 5 mile drive different car pulls well lot livelier all round , so definitely a problem with the accuspark .

loads of paste as said fitted around 8 units on different cars , could it be the distributor worn fair bit of play in it , have been playing around with it the tolerance is very slight on the trigger slightly down a bit will not start tight against the rotor arm runs but badly. may swop the dist have a spare

so update used tape as per aaccuspark recommended to take up the trigger slack , so test drive slight pull back on acceleration first mile 3 miles latter getting worse head back for home just made it engine now will not rev popping back fire , remove the trigger refit starts up running fine thinking best place for it is the bin , first time to be honest ihave had problems with accuspark units may just go back the points rout .

has been painted one side at some point so will need a little bit of sorting out

have the o/s one not the padded type just flat, from a 1965 vitesse convertible

was for lucas as fitted , accuspark confirm correct part again told to use insulation tape to pack out , think i will just purchase a new unit and compare

came from accuspark thinking maybe could be wrong will call them

what year early or latter think i may have a early type

seems to drop low if i pull it up tight to the rotor all good was thinking maybe supper glue it to the rotor arm , i keep a set of complete points kit the boot for back up , accuspark has covered no more than around 20 miles since fitted too late to return now had over a year paul

fitted a accuuspark kit a while back ,the pick up trigger was not a tight fit advised to put a bit of insulation tape around the distributor cam took for a drive today noticed a slight pull back on hard acceleration apart from that drove fine got home hour latter would not start had a spark fuel just turned over , took the cap off removed the trigger refitted it the car started badly popping back fire would not rev , took the trigger out refitted now running fine trouble is now i have no faith in it idead please should i just purchase a new kit ? fitted a few first one to give me a problem although the others the trigger was a very tight fit paul

hi looking for a usable herald estate if anyone knows of one for sale paul

if the body work is that good i would make offer and go for it ,having restored a few over the years a lot cheaper to sort engine running gear ect if it is that good at least you know your not going to find loads of filler and bodges in years to come

price is not always relevant around 5 years ago i sold my vitesse 6 to a local classic car trader for £3,500 in p/x the car drove ok looked ok but the chassis was a total bodge full of filler underseal / i was amazed to see it advertised a week latter for 12k he sold it some 6 months latter i often wonder who the poor person was who purchased it paul and was sold without a mot saying tax mot exempt

couple of engines for sale on ebay with the manifold might be worth asking if they will sell the manifold separately never know

also think it depends on the asking price ,, if cheap enough in my opinion worth the risk have purchased a lot of bargains over the years due to no mot , you need to give it a good look over though paul

what annoys me is the amount of traders who advertise with no mot needed tax free ,

think we all have are way of doing it what ever works best for the person doing the job , lost count of the number i have done over the years easy when you have done it though paul

you may have to support the engine undo mounts move it slightly forward to get the prop back on as some can be a very tight fit

do not need to touch the diff other than to remove the prop flange bolts

no you can get the prop out fiddly and then replace it