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Christoph Wintersteiger

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cambridge, UK
  • Cars Owned
    Triumph GT6 Mk1 (1967) in Valencia Blue

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  1. I’m searching for a new or used right/driver side door for my GT6 Mk1 (1967), ideally one that requires little to no welding. If you have anything of that sort, please do let me know! Someone backed into my current door and the frame turned out to be totally rusted away too, so it would be most economical to replace it with a used one. I didn't expect it to be so hard to find a used door. Is this just a bad time to look for doors and is there hope that more will be available in the not too distant future?
  2. I recently broke the original (-looking) choke knob on my Mk1 GT6 and had a hard time finding a replacement. The only place that had some was Spitbits in the US, i.e., factoring in the shipping cost, that knob is quite a luxury item now!
  3. I run an electronic ignition module in my old (and slightly wobbly) D202 to take the pressure off the shaft and so far no problems or increase in wobbliness in about 3 years. I'm looking for a working vacuum advance unit for the D202 though, so if you swap yours for a Lucas let me know!
  4. +1 from me! I had a bunch of problems with a small battery in my GT6 Mk1 (including replacement of a perfectly good starter). It looked very good, but it was just too weak (40Ah, but only ~325CCA). I now run a Bosch S5 52Ah 520CCA that fits comfortably into the tray, and, when fully charged, cranks the engine very positively even in cold weather. I'm sure a cheaper one (e.g., Bosch S3) would do just as well, but I wouldn't get one that has less than ~450CCA. If anyone can recommend something that has that kind of performance but also looks good, I'd be all over it!
  5. Recently, the battery in my GT6 (Mk1, 1967) gave me some trouble. It ran empty twice soon after I was stuck in slow traffic, in the rain, and at night. Non-ideal conditions for an old dynamo, but I think it should in fact still perform well enough in this setting, at least as long as I don't feel like pushing my luck and turn the heater fan on! So I hooked up the multi-meter and drove around with it on the passenger seat for a couple of days: On normal/good days (no rain, no headlights) it does pretty well, at idle she sits somewhere around 12.5V and the voltage quickly rises to over 15V when I drive off, the cut-off should be set somewhere around 15.5V and I've not seen her go past that yet. However, on rainy days the performance is very different: once warmed up she idles at around 11.5V and she never reaches the cut-off. I took her out on the motorway today just to test and I couldn't get her past 13.2V even at ~4000 rpm. That might just be enough to charge the battery a little, but it's clearly too low. Is it normal for a dynamo to perform worse in the wet? I can't really see a reason for why that should be, with the possible exception of the belt slipping, but I suppose that should show some audible symptoms as well then. I figure this one's probably more expensive than swapping out the dynamo brushes, right?
  6. I recently switched from sealed beams to halogen on my GT6 Mk1 as well and didn't find it necessary to install relays as for the moment I'm using roughly the same wattage bulbs. They are a little bit brighter than the sealed beams, but the real reason for my changing over to halogen is that I want to be able to buy new bulbs and fit them at a gas station when out on a trip. I used a halogen conversion kit which comes with reflectors that have a receptacle for bulbs in the back instead of being sealed, so there's no new holes to be drilled and it even looks stock. Also, you can go back to sealed beams any time and with very little effort if necessary.
  7. Early this year my GT6 (Mk1, 1967) developed a crack in the exhaust manifold. While installing a new exhaust system I then found that the front exhaust mount was missing and of course I'd like to rectify that before I risk cracking another manifold. I'm very confused by the workshop manual though - I can't for the life of me figure out where the front mounting bracket should go. I'm adding a picture of the relevant page in the workshop manual (pg 1-401). Does anybody know what the bracket numbered 5 should be attached to? Thanks! Christoph
  8. Thanks for all the replies! Makes a lot of sense that rust on manifolds shouldn't be a major problem as long as the studs are ok. Intuitively I would also think that fused-branch manifolds are more prone to cracking, so I'll give the non-fused one a try this time. Paul: since you mention stainless steel - are there SS manifolds of the "normal" shape instead of tubular sports manifolds? I'd be highly interested if such a thing exists!
  9. Sadly the exhaust manifold on my GT6 Mk1 has a bad crack that's getting worse every day. I've been looking for a replacement for a while, but so far couldn't find the right one (they are all either badly rusted or cracked). At the moment, there are two on ebay, but they look different from the one on my car: Manifold 1 Manifold 2 Both of them seem to have the right part number (306483), but ports 2/3 and 4/5 are not fused like on mine; see e.g., this completed listing: Manifold 3 Are the non-fused one simply earlier/later ones and they have kept the part number, or are they "pattern parts" by a different company? Will both of them fit onto my engine? If you have one for sale, do let me know! Thanks! Christoph
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