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Ingieuk

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Posts posted by Ingieuk

  2. Mk3 GT6 Second Gear

    in Gearbox & Overdrive

    Posted

    1 minute ago, johny said:

    This synchro ring in particular has a hard life as drivers accelerate hard in first and whack into second. In any gearbox rebuild at the very least it should be swopped for the 4th or 1st gear ring which should be less worn.  Sometimes this maybe preferable to using a new pattern part item as their quality is pretty unknown and apparently can be distorted in manufacture so making smooth changes practically impossible....    

    Thanks for the reply. I do wonder as I replaced all the syncros with pattern items as they came in the rebuild kit from Paddocks. 

    Just driven to work and the issue is much more acute in trafic, I had one smooth change but other than that it was a pain. 

    Is there anything I can look at linkage wise? It's had a new set of bushes and the selector forks look in reasonable condition.

    When I do get the box out I'll swap back to the old syncro rings on 2nd. Though they are all mixed up now so I'm not sure which is which. Having said that before the circlip issue from earlier all gears changed lovely so maybe any of them will be good. 

  3. Mk3 GT6 Second Gear

    in Gearbox & Overdrive

    Posted

    Bit of an update on things. With the car sporting new rotoflexs, rear cylinders and differential oil seals I took it out for a 20mile drive. All changes but 3rd-2nd are beautifully smooth. 

    Blipping the throttle helps but without being down at 15-20mph road speed it will not select 2nd.

    Is it the syncro next to second gear that is the culprit or the one next to third? Struggling to get my head around it. 

  4. Rotoflex Coupling Supplier or CV conversion

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    Thanks Clive, Peter and Pete all good information! 

    After a few cold wet (and now dark) evenings work I have both sides renewed. Unfortunately with the spring lifter in play the car has had to live outside on account of my garage not being wide enough.

    I did need some ratchet straps to get that spring eye bolt in though! 

    Anyway they were all fitted until I decided it would be worth doing the output shaft and pinion oil seals so it's all come off again! 

    Thanks all. 

  5. Rotoflex Coupling Supplier or CV conversion

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    7 hours ago, Peter Truman said:

    I wouldn't advocate it and others will probably poobah it but I replaced both on my Vitesse rotaflex's around 10 years ago without dismantling the outer shaft, by cutting the band off the rotaflex and prising the coupling over the outer drive shaft tri finger flange then recompress the rotaflex with a DIY two part hexagon band/clamp I made so I could get the bolts back into the two drive flanges.

    The 2 piece band I made was crude and made out of scrap strip steel using the compressed rotaflex band as an example, I still have it in case! Maybe I was lucky as I didn't damage the rotaflex but it's still all OK.

    Hopefully others will respond to this DIY method with the pro's, con's, and risks of damage!

    A quick check in the garage and I couldn't locate the offending DIY clamp, but its there and if I can locate it I'll post a photo.

    Thanks Peter, good to know this is also a potential way forward. 

  6. Rotoflex Coupling Supplier or CV conversion

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    8 hours ago, NonMember said:

    I thought the technique was to strip the shaft so that it doesn't have a flange, then reassemble once the rotoflex is on. My WSM isn't to hand at the moment and it's a long time since I did the job. I remember it being a pig to dismantle the hub and get the bearings off the shaft but I don't remember having trouble getting the rotoflex into place once I'd done so. (I did have to buy one new outer shaft as the legs on the old one were bent!)

    I'm glad you mentioned that. On closer inspection I see I have not removed the stoneguard or spacer from the half shaft! 

    Just need to work out how that might be removed without the special Churchill tool. 

    Some exploratory taps with a copper hammer yielded little so I might have to manufacture some sort of puller. 

     

  8. Rotoflex Coupling Supplier or CV conversion

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    57 minutes ago, NonMember said:

    If the spring lifter is supporting the spring then it won't drop. If another jack is supporting the vertical link then that won't drop either. If you knock the bolt out in this condition, neither of the things it attaches are being supported by the bolt so its removal won't cause anything to "go with a bang".

    This is, of course, only taking one dimension into account. The bolt will be awkward to remove because the rotoflex is under tension, meaning that the vertical link wants to move outward. But it can't move far so that's not a big problem.

    Thanks, it was the second jack that was the missing link. Going to need to source a taller axle stand to hold the lifter. 

    52 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

    As Rob says..... 

    Getting that bolt out is easy.  Putting it back in with a fresh roto......... 😳 that’ll test your patience 🙄

    May the force be with you.....

    Nick

    That sounds fun...tapered dowl and patience to hand then! 

    Once the whishbone is attached to chassis and driveshaft flange loosley bolted up I assume its a case of riving on it until that bolt is back in. 

  9. Rotoflex Coupling Supplier or CV conversion

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    Quick query, when relieving the load on the lead spring how do you know you have gone far enough? 

    Using a bottle jack, and the spring lifter tool I've got the point where the tool is against the bump stop, at this point I can slide the shock off it's mountings. However, I can't tell if there is no load on the spring - if there is load when I knock the spring eye bolt out its going to go with a bang - I'd rather that didn't happen!! 

    Am I missing something? The haynes has a second jack under the vertical link in the diagram that it doesn't mention in the text. With the spring lifter taking the weight of the spring and the second jack taking the weight of the vertical link I assume the spring eye bolt will just slide out. 

    I guess also once the shock is off and the spring eye bolt removed I can lower the spring lifter tool and breath again. 

     

    Maybe I'm over thinking this. 

  10. Mk3 GT6 Second Gear

    in Gearbox & Overdrive

    Posted

    10 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

    It might improve with use.  Bit of a long shot.  Hub release pressures a bit light maybe, or just not a very grippy synchro.  Might improve when the oil gets properly warm.

    It's a real minefield.  New synchros aren't always great, decent used ones getting rare, and the cone surface on the gear can be a factor too.  You have to try the baulk rings on, see what gap is left (more the better in general), but also, push and twist them together.  A pair that is going to work well together will bite as you twist - it's difficult to describe - almost a squeak - but more a sensation of grip and friction than anything you can actually hear.  If they just slide, they won't work well.  I like to try a few and see.  I will choose one with good bite over another with less bite even if it has more gap.  Have seen new ones that are slightly out of round so have a great gap but minimal bite.

    What gear oil are you using?  Can have a quite a big effect.  Redline MTL or MT90 works quite well for that I've found.

    BTW on mine GT6 box I chose hub release pressures on the high side.  Synchro works well but it is a bit notchy so far.  Not as quiet as I would like either.

    Nick

    Good stuff, thanks. I'm using comma gl4 oil nothing fancy really. Some redline might be worth trying for sure. Hub release pressures I found difficult to measure but they all seemed about 9.5kg which is the upper range. How accurate my measurements were I'm not sure though! 

    1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

    3rd to 2nd is having to sync more revs than 1-2   and with a new clutch disc it may need the fuzz wearing in to clear nicely , i would give it some driving once the rota is fixed and see if it improves 

    make  firm changes , if you hesitate through a change the rock over will let go and you crunch ... thats dont rush but dont release stick load during a change , if you know it might clash 

    you can make it worse if you tickle it .

    but a clearing clutch is fundamental to disc spin up synchronising 

    pete

    During changes I've been applying pressure to the stick to try and load the syncro slightly before slotting it in. I'll be a bit quicker and see how I get on. All good stuff to learn. 

    I think the clutch is self adjusting (?) so as you say it will need to bed in. It's only done 2miles so far. 

    43 minutes ago, Peter Truman said:

    give the throttle a blip on the way down works for my Dolly on a worn box so should work on a rebuilt box, not a full double d'clutch but just a little blip, on the way up not to fast or slow but positive movement between  2 & 3, works for me no racing changes, eventually I'll pull the box and fix!

    I can give this a go now I don't have a sticky throttle cable! What an annoyance that was, particularly around town. 

  11. GT6 Caliper Bleed Nipple Stripped

    in Braking System

    Posted

    Just to update this with a resolution. 

    Having got the calipers out it was evident the threads are good and strong in comparison to those on the bleed nipple. Having ran an m10 bottoming tap through them they came up lovely.

    A new set of brass m10 fine nipples and fittings and all is right again. Phew! New pistons and seals have worked a treat. 

    Thanks all for the help. 

    • Like 1

  12. Mk3 GT6 Second Gear

    in Gearbox & Overdrive

    Posted

    So... 

    Back on the road (briefly), I dared a 2 mile drive with a known poor rotoflex coupling as I had to know if the gbox rebuild had worked. I'd like to get all the interior back in before starting on the next job! 

    All is smooth and quiet, except... 3rd to 2nd. There can be a real crunch. Oddly if you are slowing for a roundabout (so going a but quicker) it slots in lovely, but go from 3rd to 2nd at lower speeds and there is a bit of a crunch. Its a bit of a 'fake' test as in normal driving you dont do this, but it still shouldn't do it. 

    I wonder if there is an issue with the 2nd gear syncro ring. Doesn't affect 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 1st, both lovely changes. 

    Is it a case of the new syncro rings bedding in? As it's reasonably okay I'm minded to refit all the interior and just be a bit careful driving it and see if some miles on the gearbox help. I need to change the rotoflex couplings before I drive any distance anyway. 

    Maybe then a winter job to get the box back out check the rings (put old one back in?) and fit the new reverse operating lever I've managed to source. 

     

    Any thoughts? 

  14. Rotoflex Coupling Supplier or CV conversion

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    Okay I've got my wire brush and penetrating oil at the ready. I'll need to build up the front calipers and fill with fluid before I can lock the wheels so I've got a few days to give the bolts a good soak. 

    Not sure I'm going to chance fitting without removing the driveshaft, doesn't sound like something for a first timer! 

    Hopefully the bolts come out okay. They are surprisingly expensive (£30ish a side I recall), I guess they are high tensile and in a fairly unique size/thread. 

  15. Rotoflex Coupling Supplier or CV conversion

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    On 30/06/2020 at 22:44, Nick Jones said:

    If the wheel bearings turn smoothly and quietly with just the merest hint of play then you can probably assume they are ok.  Also possible to dismantle (carefully noting and keeping the shims and spacers) wash out the bearings and check their condition and, hopefully just reassemble with fresh grease.  Much easier than the gearbox work you've just done!

    MoT man should pick up shot rotos.  They certainly wake you up if they do let go whilst driving.  My spring bears the scars to this day.  If you can get hold of the proper ones (Metalastik now Trelleborg - not sure whether the  recently produced Trelleborg ones are the equals of the originals) they usually last very well.  The pattern versions..... much more variable.  It was the failure of a pair of new (less than 1 year) rotos that drove me to do the CV conversion.

    Cars which have suffered coupling failures may have visible damage to the driveshaft ears, usually on the outer section.  Quite major distortion sometimes.

    Thanks Nick, good to know the gearbox work will have been trickier. I just hope everything comes apart without too much persuasion! 

    Any tips for loosening off the rotoflex bolts? Is it best done with the drive shafts on the car? (bit worried about applying force when connected to the diff). I wonder if heat might be required, they look well rusted in. 

    Also is it a requirement to put new bolts in when the coupling is changed? Happy to do so but the workshop manual is vague. 

  16. GT6 Caliper Bleed Nipple Stripped

    in Braking System

    Posted

    On 28/06/2020 at 21:39, Nick Jones said:

    Sounds hopeful.  Bigg Red offer the seal kits and stainless steel pistons for these calipers, which have worked very nicely on the three pairs I've done.  You'll have to ring them to order though as they don't appear on their website.

    Nick

    I wish I'd checked there first, 4 pistons and two seal kits was £67 from JP, £35.99 from Bigg Red. 

    Nevermind! Know for next time. 

  17. Rotoflex Coupling Supplier or CV conversion

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    6 minutes ago, Paul H said:

    If you change wheel bearings ( I purchased mine from Canleys as well as doughnuts ) you will need to reshim , make sure you gave a good selection of shims to hand . Canleys have a good write up on reshimming . If you can find it I’ll dig out a copy

    Paul 

    The shimming aspect does concern me slightly. The 'if it ain't broke...' philosophy might be prudent for the UJ and wheel bearings for now. Unless that seems short sighted?

  18. Rotoflex Coupling Supplier or CV conversion

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    8 minutes ago, Paul H said:

    Are doughnuts part of MOT testing ?

    Paul 

    Not sure. CV boots are so I'd guess so?

    57 minutes ago, Peter Truman said:

    I have QH ones purchased around 1983 by the FI Law in the UK and fitted around 10years ago only recent road service tho' they appear to be OK, no cracks yet.

     I fitted them without removing the outer axle and upright. I undid the compression band sprung the donut over the two spiders, then I'd made a new heavier compression band (hexagon in two halves) and screwed/clamped it back into shape and fitted the 6 bolts, unconventional but I'd do it again I kept the crude home made clamp in case!

    I like the alternative way of doing things! 

    I have a polybush kit so whilst in I might as well do the wishbone bushes etc. Is it worth new wheel bearings (timken if I can find them), hub oil seals, and renew UJs whilst it's in bits? No signs of deterioration to date. 

  19. Rotoflex Coupling Supplier or CV conversion

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    1 hour ago, NonMember said:

    Hmm... Well, the ones I replaced in 1994 were worse than that and hadn't caused any obvious symptoms. The ones I fitted had to be replaced again a few years back, so they lasted over 20 years.

    I've had no symptoms, I just happened to be under the car checking if I needed to replace brake lines or wheel cylinders whilst I was on with the front calipers and noticed. 

    Interestingly it's only the RHS one, the LHS looks in good nick. They are metalastik ones as it happens.

    Sounds like it's not worth the risk at all, I will heed the advice! 

    There is an ebay seller selling a pair of QH (unipart?) ones for £58. Think they may be worth a punt. 

  20. Rotoflex Coupling Supplier or CV conversion

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    Thanks for the info, I'll see if I hear back. In the meantime I've found some lotus suppliers selling ones they claim are higher quality, £80 plus vat. 

     

    The current ones are as per the photos below. The splits are not all the way through. I'm wondering if they have sufficient integrity to manage a couple of runs out (locally!!) to check my brake and gearbox rebuild before I tackle the rear? 

     

    DSC_0326.JPG

    DSC_0324.JPG

  21. Rotoflex Coupling Supplier or CV conversion

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    Thanks all. 

    The CV conversion seems the long term solution for sure, but having just overhauled the gearbox, the brakes and now this finding £650 is an ask. 

    I think my route will be to replace like for like and look to do the CV conversion in 2000miles time (about 18 months). At least I'll be back on the road. 

    I guess the question is what's the best of a bad bunch? I wonder if those sold by rimmers/Canley/james paddock are all the same item from the same manufacturer just at slightly different prices. 

    1 hour ago, Gary Flinn said:

    This is from an old thread about Rotoflex couplings:- 

    "When I was struggling to find genuine Metalastic donuts about ten years ago  - for a reasonable price - I found some in stock at Bailey Morris Propshafts, in Cambridge ? They were new manufacture by Trelleborg, who have bought the rights to the Metalastic brand and are made to the same standard. Trelleborg make a lot of different size donuts as they are commonly used in propshaft couplings. Might be worth a try...

    Gav"

    I've no idea if Trelleberg still make the Rotoflex coupling to original Specification, I do remember them being near on £200 Each though!

    Some of the reproduction Couplings last longer than others, not sure if the ones with the letters G&M are long lasting or not?

    One things for sure it is a time consuming and often unpleasant job to replace them and I can see why the CV conversions are very popular.

    I was lucky that when I rebuilt my rear Rotoflex suspension, genuine Metalastic couplings where still available from James Paddocks, I reckon I paid £45 each for genuine ones in the Unipart Boxes, they are still on the car to the best of my knowledge 12 years and around 15,000 miles after fitting?

    PS - You may get lucky and find genuine ones on E-Bay?      

     

     

     

    Funnily enough I found that thread earlier today and emailed them for a price. Might not like the reply if they are £200 a piece though! 

    I'll look for any with g&m on them. A couple of older threads mention getting decent ones from a supplier shortened to "QH" - any idea who that might be? 

  22. Rotoflex Coupling Supplier or CV conversion

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    Hi,

    What is the latest on getting hold of quality rotoflex doughtnuts? I have just found a large split in one section on my car, looks to be nearly all the way through.

    Rimmers sell them for £50 each, James Paddock for £35, Canley's for £40. One company I found in a forum search seemed to have re-manufactured originals http://race.parts/Catalogue/Drivetrain/Rubber-Drive-Donuts/Heavy-Duty-Rubber-Drive-Donuts at £113 each. Does anyone have experience or guidance on which to choose? Is more expensive better? I'll be steering clear of the £30 for a pair ebay jobs for sure.

    I'd contemplate a CV conversion also if it's reasonably fool proof. I need to do some more research on the Nick Jones conversion, there is also the Rimmers one and TSSC seem to have one too. £500-700 seems a lot to spend vs a £100 doughnut. Easy to say until a cheapo doughnut fails and strands me maybe...

    Thanks,

    Rich

  23. GT6 Caliper Bleed Nipple Stripped

    in Braking System

    Posted

    Thanks all for the very informative responses!

    Nipple therapy is an interesting name for a product! Though I only have one caliper to sort.

    Once on the bench I have managed to identify I indeed have two type16pb metric calipers. It looks like the thread is salvageable so I've ordered a M10x1 (fine) bottoming tap and replacement bleed nipples.

    I found the chrome on all four pistons is in a poor state so the calipers are going to get a full overhaul. I won't split them though as a couple of exploratory heaves on a breaker bar wasn't close to shifting the bolts.

  24. Mk3 GT6 Second Gear

    in Gearbox & Overdrive

    Posted

    Box is back in with a new reverse lever (NOS from Canley Classics). Not turned the engine over in anger yet so not sure of the outcome yet with regards the reverse idler. It looked like there was clearance but we shall see.

    In the meantime I've managed to strip the bleed nipple on RHS caliper (dissapointed in myself!) so there will be no road testing until that is sorted!

     

  25. GT6 Caliper Bleed Nipple Stripped

    in Braking System

    Posted

    Hi All,

    I have managed to strip the bleed nipple thread in the RHS caliper, dissapointed in myself is an understatement!

    Any idea what thread the bleed nipple will be? By the commission number (late rotoflex mk3) they should be the metric 16PB caliper. Interestingly each caliper has a different type of bleed nipple (one short, one long) so I need to check I actually don't have two different calipers.

    Has anyone got any experience of tapping out the bleed nipple to a larger size and sourcing a different bleed nipple? Or possibly a helicoil thread insert?

    I did consider a recon caliper (or a pair) but I'm conscious some people have had issues with them. Prior to this I had no braking issues - the master cylinder was long overdue an overhaul, hence the ill-fated bleeding operation.

    Any thoughts/criticism of my mechanical sympathy welcomed!

    Richard 

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