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jamesdennison

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Everything posted by jamesdennison

  1. Bit of a thread resurrection, but may help somebody in the future. In the end I thought I'd try a different external sealer. I used this stuff https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0051TPIQ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Fernox LS-X It is for plumbing really but it works! I've used the car a lot this year, probably 2,000 miles + and the oil leak is negligible, 95% success. Highly recommended.
  2. Looks like Fitchetts (15 mins from here) have a 3.63:1 diff for £360 incl £100 surcharge so £260 if they'll accept my old one in exchange. Not sure if this includes VAT but either way worth a go. My diff does have a perpetual leak anyway (have jiggled the breather and not that). The speedo isn't that far off against sat nav at higher speeds. I've just signed up for a 1600 mile road rally next year so I'm going to need a better cruising gear https://www.4ballr.com/
  3. Cheers folks. I'll swap the diff first them and see what difference that makes. I can get hold of a recon OD for £625 (no exchange). I've had the car 18 years and not planning to get rid in the near future so seems job worth doing. But if I can achieve the desired result with a new diff then worth trying first.
  4. Car is a bitsa. 2000 ME engine, GT6 Chassis, Spitfire body. Possibly toledo gearbox, but not sure. 60 mph comes up at just over 4000 RPM which isn't great for long journeys so seriously thinking about OD conversion. I'd do this myself / help from Shropshire TSSC's hit squad. My aim is to accumulate all the parts and make a day of it rather than have the car off the road for ages. I'm seeking advice on the parts I'll need and likely issues.... this is a well trodden path after-all! My list so far - Reconditioned OD Gearbox (prefer this to unknown SH unit) Shortened prop shaft (I'll get a SH unit and check / replace moving parts myself) Speedo angle drive Mounts / rubbers Gearstick with switch Gaskets Wire / connectors etc. Anything missing? Am I right in thinking the d-type will be compatible with the existing bell-housing? Anything else worth doing at the same time? Thanks for the help folks.
  5. My magnetronic ignition burned out a couple of coils before I bought the recommended magnetronic coil. Can't vouch for whether this will sort your problem, but 15 years later the magnetronic coil is still working, so they are a quality item.
  6. Spent a bit of time on (well under!) this over the weekend. I got a "nip" extra on a few of the sump nuts and a bit of a turn on the timing chain cover and front engine plate. I'm going to give this a run for a while when the weather warms up and see if makes a difference. Fingers crossed.
  7. Hi Pete, A bead of sealant was my first thought. Pretty certain the gasket does have sealant on it so no, it won't come off cleanly. I'll check the torques first and may then give it a go. Do you recommend any particular brand of sealant? On my saab I used a GM product which was eyewateringly expensive for a small tube. The stuff never sets fully hard.
  8. Yes - new wedges went in. Oil is at the very bottom front edge. In the pic you can see the gunk I've put on externally ... but there is still a drip. No oil down the external front of the cover (i.e. under the fan). I'll check the torques on the sump screws again, I seem to remember these are "just" tight. I really don't think the sump will some completely off in situ. It is an ME engine from a 2000 and a very tight fit. I should be able to drop it an inch or so and wondered about doing this and getting some sealant in.... but I know this will probably end up getting "involved".
  9. Timing cover oil seal is certainly an easier fix if it is that. I do remember it being hard to press in. I'll take the cover off and see if it has moved.
  10. Car is gt6 chassis, 2000 engine & spit mk iv body Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere but couldn't find in search. A couple of years ago, with help from Shropshire TSSC group we rebuilt my engine. On the morning of the build we discovered that the new sealing block / bridge that I'd bought was poorly machined and didn't fit. I helicoiled the old one and it was re-used. The guys knew what they were doing so correct length bolts used and everything torqued as per manual. Nothing stripped. Engine has been great, but I have a leak at the front which I am certain is due to the sealing block. I know that leaks are all part of the old car character, and its not catastrophic, but my drive is a real mess and I dare not park it on anyone else's drive because of the telltale oil stains. The sump will not come off with the engine in situ. I know this is possible in some chassis / engine configurations ... but definitely not in this case - has been tried. .... but I reckon if I take the steering rack off I can drop the sump an inch, maybe an inch and a half before fouling the chassis member, maybe. I'd like to fit one of the steel versions - do you reckon this is possible? or do I need to bit the bullet and take the engine out ... or get a drip tray I look forward to your words of wisdom!
  11. Been there done that. Goes like an artillery piece. Mine took out a chunk of metal out of the bonnet and ended up 30' away on the other side of the road..... I took the other side to a local garage which charged me a fiver for the job. I felt the air move as it whistled past my head ... still brings shivers.
  12. Big thanks for the pic - I'll give it a go. The noise reminds me of the crickets you get in the Mediterranean.
  13. Is there a TSSC event planned for next year's SPA Classic .... along the same lines as Classic Le Mans? It's one I've wanted to do for years and looking at options. If not, any advice on campsites etc? Many thanks James (Staffs)
  14. Dave, I have exactly the same issue ... may have posted on here about it ages ago. I was toying with the idea of something to take up the slack on the clutch pedal but if your solution has worked it sounds less like a bodge. Is there any chance you could post a pic of what you've done on here? I think I know what you've done, but always useful to see! Thanks. James
  15. Changed the plugs - £10.50 incl VAT for 6 so no hardship ...... and all seems to be working again. Strobe is firing off nicely and car sounds a lot better. Not been able to drive it yet as my wife's just come home and blocked me in! but I reckon the plug was the issue. Timing is at 8 degrees but my distributor has a fine adjust twiddler on it so very easy to change the profile up (or is it down?) a few degrees without getting the spanners out. Hopefully that's sorted...
  16. Thanks Pete. It is set at 8 deg at the moment which is why I questioned Haynes. I'll get hold of some new plugs and see if that is the issue...
  17. Just had a thought. The spark I can see on the tester occurs when the electricity jumps the gap in the tester and only shows that electricity is getting to the contact on the top of the spark plug not that i'm getting a spark on the electrode at the end of the plug itself. I reckon the spark plug is faulty. Will swap them tomorrow, fingers crossed that sorts the backfiring too.
  18. The short version - My timing light won't fire on no.1 but does on the other cylinders. I am getting a spark at no.1 (I have one of those testers where you can see the spark) Any ideas? ..... and does 18 degrees BTDC on a Triumph 2000 ME engine sound right - this is what haynes say. Longer version - my car has been backfiring from the carbs. This is possibly due to 95 petrol as that is all I could get last time I filled up but I thought I'd go back to basics and check the timing. Set the tappets from cold first - all good. Come to check the timing using a strobe light on no. 1 and no flash. Shifted over to no.2 and it works fine. I've used a spark tester and there is a good spark on no. 1 but still no flash. My next step will be to change the HT lead ... but weird as there seems to be a good spark. Any ideas? .... The car is a bitsa, GT6 chassis, spitfire body with an ME engine from a 2000. I've recently acquired a haynes manual for the 2000 which says 18 degrees BTDC. This is different to GT6 timings. Is this still the wisdom? Thanks in advance! Cheers James
  19. I had a similar situation a while ago (I think "while" could be 10 years ago) with a 2000 manifold. Chris Witor sorted it out for a very reasonable price and it came back better than new. I seem to remember he worked in conjunction with a machine shop. If you are struggling it is worth giving him a call. He does answer the phone.
  20. Leak is coming from bridge area, but we were very careful to use the right bolts / torque on reassembly. Car is a bitsa with a 2000 ME engine on Mk3 GT6 chassis - it has proved impossible to get the sump off in situ unfortunately. My plan will be to keep running over the summer with a view to engine out in the autumn. I can live with a bit of a leak, but there was a bit more than I am happy with .....
  21. I think I'm there. Bit of trial and error moving rack left and right until the "stop" was the same at both sides. Very close to scrubbing the wheel on the edge of the anti-roll bar but a definite stop at both sides preventing this from happening. I'm still not happy that the clamp is fully "clamped" as the top and bottom meet and I don't think they should. I'll mark the position and take the clamp off and file off a bit from each side. I've also had the locking nuts on and off a couple of times so I'll swap these with new ones. Fingers crossed that will keep the MOT man happy. I seem to have a lot more oil under the car than I remember. Engine was rebuilt last year thanks for TSSC Shropshire, as featured in the Courier last year. The new "bridge" that I bought didn't fit so I ended up helicoiling the old one. I think this is the source. Engine out job on this car so there is a job for Autumn; will fit the uprated unit in the club shop.
  22. Sorry! Not really in a hurry but thought I'd keep posting as I went along! Tie rod ends off using a Birmingham screwdriver on the side of the steering arm. Seems to be about 1.8 turns each way lock to lock - sound about right? ... but with the wheels reattached the LHS wheel is still fouling the anti-roll bar. So I got thinking to the issue I had last year when the rack was moving in the mounts (there is a thread somewhere). I'm thinking that the rack itself may be skewed to one side resulting in the issue I seem to have. Just slackened off the clamp and moved the rack to the left (as far as it will go). Just going to get oily again and see if that has done it! Am I right in thinking there isn't a bump stop of some sort on the rack? You guys are great by the way!
  23. I'll keep posting 'tll someone replies! Any tips on getting track rod ends off without wrecking them? I have a fork splitter which I know will work, but that will be the end of the seals. On full right lock the tyre is touching the anti-roll bar which but clear on full left lock. My guess is that the uneven lock is the source of the problem.
  24. Trying to get my head around how to sort the uneven lock. The only thing I can think of is to disconnect the track rod ends at both sides and turn the wheel until I find the middle of the rack then reconnect the ends - does this make sense! As to the issue of the bump stop. I've simply bent the brake pipes a little so they no longer foul the spring on full lock. I attach a few pics on full lock - does this look right chaps or do I have too much travel on the rack? I always remember our cars being well known for extreme steering.
  25. My Spitfire 6 has failed its MOT because on full lock the wheel is touching the brake hoses. The issue is that the wheel just keeps turning on lock. Garage reckon there should be a bump stop of some sort to stop this happening, possibly as simple as a jubilee clip - any ideas? The car has uneven amounts of lock left to right, so my first job tonight is to sort that and see if that is the issue, but I thought I'd post on here while I'm getting oily to see what you guys think!
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