Jezza

Agree with this. I had the same issue on my Mk2 and found that the edge of the nylon block had rounded over the years meaning the latch found it easier to slip back over the nylon block and for the boot lid to fly open especially when i hit pot holes or went round a corner at speed (I guess there was a small amount of torsioning in the car body which assisted it to open). Haven’t had a problem since I changed the nylon block. And I didn’t need to reposition it either, just a straight swap.

Good stuff! I did the same last week and took the car out twice. First run was fine (that was after it being sat for two and a half months) and the second one started fine and then the Facet fuel pump gave up so I was stranded for a few hours. But I too am amazed how friendly and willing people are to share experiences. While I was sat waiting for the AA four or five people started chatting about how they, their other half, etc had a triumph, MG, Rover, etc and the memories it brought back to them. They wished me well and carried on! I was recovered 8 hours later 😐

V good suggestion, thanks!

I have the Type 9 gearbox on my GT6 (I much prefer it to the previous, original 4 speed non-OD triumph unit). It’s made - or perhaps adapted to fit a Triumph - by Frontline Developments. I bought it as a kit (gearbox, clutch and shortened prop shaft) but they may be able to supply the parts individually. https://frontlinedevelopments.com/performance-parts/?vehicle_model=triumph

Thanks all, I’ve already complained to the AA direct and it’s a good suggestion to let PJ know as well. I’ll do that this week.

Thanks for the good suggestions - there’s definitely some things I’ll add to my tool kit and spare parts I carry, although I think carrying a spare alternator might be going a bit far! Errrr…… I tried this route and it didn’t work! Had to wait approx 8 hrs for a recovery that I had to organise myself! Yes, well at least it’d make the wait more pleasurable! Given the British weather I might add a coat and umbrella to that list

Following my tale of woe (see https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/9717-my-tale-of-woe/ for a full run down) it got me thinking about which spares I should carry. I carry a basic set of tools (spanners, socket set, screwdrivers, pliers, etc) and I've now got a spare fuel pump and am thinking of carrying a spare solenoid, some indicator and brake bulbs, but is there anything else you'd recommend I carry with me?

I had an MOT booked for my Mk2 GT6 so I thought with the nice weather it would be good to do a couple of runs in the car ahead of taking it in. First run last Tuesday was fine and everything worked well and I clocked up about 40 miles of A road driving, so not too onerous on the car following a couple of months parked up in the garage. The second run started off fine but I noticed after about 3 or 4 miles that the revs were running slightly high (about 1,100) at idle. I gave it a couple of dabs on the gas to see if that would then settle it down but it was still running the same. I kept driving and about 5 to 6 miles later I got to a set of lights on the A21 (just by the Chapter One restaurant, in case anyone knows the Bromley, Farnborough, Orpington area) and the car started running rough when I set off, almost like someone had flicked a switch. I struggled to get any power but the revs were responsive but eventually about 200 yards further up the road it died and I was stuck on a double red line route at the point (immediately outside the PRUH) where the lanes narrow from two to one. Great! Just where people set off from the lights and race to get in ahead of the person in the other lane before their lane disappears. After a bit of a panic I got the bonnet up and started looking for anything that might be out of place. Nothing on the road behind - no fluids, no parts dropped off - and no cables, wires or pipes lose or disconnected. After I scratched my head a bit and tried to work out what had gone on - and while trying not to be hit by said traffic caning it off the lights - I looked in the float chambers. Both barely had any fuel in (I had about 1/2 a tank in the car). Looked over the fuel lines to see if anything was disconnected - all connected and seemed fine. Next the fuel pump - roasting hot, but I assumed it would be just because it runs constantly. As it's a Facet electric fuel pump I assumed it is very reliable and with the regulator I have fitted it's been a very reliable setup. Anyway, after some faffing about it turns out the pump had packed up, and blown the 10A in-line fuse with it. Typically I didn't have a spare fuel pump or fuse so I called the emergency breakdown line that come with the insurance (I'm with Peter James). Got though to the AA who sent a patrol van. He confined my though that the fuel pump had packed up after he tried a replacement blade fuse and it didn't yield anything positive. However, he couldn't recover the car back home as it doesn't have any toe eyes and can't be towed on their two wheel cradle as the GT6 isn't on their database of compatible vehicles and thus not insured if they cause any damage. So instead he ordered a flatbed truck. Approx 1hr wait, which was fine and would make it 2.30pm. Weather was nice and the patrol helped my push the car into the PRUH entrance road off the A21. 70 mins went by and I called the AA back to see how long it would be.. ETA now 4.15pm. Argh, annoying but the suns still out, so no need to worry. Tick tock, tick tock. Called back at 4.30pm as still noone had arrived. "sorry, sir, ETA now 5.30pm. There aren't any vehicles available." Having got so pissed off I googled local recovery firms, called a couple and they had availability and were less than 10 mins away. So I called the AA back who said those companies probably weren't in their network and therefore they couldn't use them. At this point the ETA had been removed and the AA told me noone was on their way to pick me up. But they could get a flatbed to me for 11.30pm. Yes, 11.30pm, 11 and a half hours after first calling them! At this point I let the AA have both barrels and told them that I was organising the recovery with a local firm and they would be reimbursing me for the cost (£120 Inc vat, which I actually thought was quite reasonable). Reluctantly they agreed after I spoke to the supervisors supervisor. On the way home I get chatting to the recovery van driver who said that his company had turned down my job twice. "why's that?" I asked. "The AA (and RAC, and others) only pay about 60% of what we'd usually charge, so we just decline the work". Oh great! So, what's the point of the breakdown service if they won't actually recover the vehicle and I have to organise it myself? If it wasn't such a nice day I'd probably have complained earlier. Instead the customer is just left there like a lemon because the AA refuse to pay the third party's rates if they need to contract out the recovery work! So much for the 4th emergency service! Anyway I finally got home at 8.30pm with the help of Roadrunners recovery (who I'd highly recommend if you find your self stuck in the AA's web of woe!

Haven't we all! Well, OK, you asked for it! As you mention in a later post, 4life will find any weak spots in your system - my guess is that most coolants will do so too..? Anyway, I had a leak from the rad that I couldn't identify the source for. So I took it to a garage to see if they could. They did, and also identified a small weep. Neither could be fixed apparently because the solder wouldn't 'take' and they thought the reason was because of the waterless coolant (that they mistakenly assumed was Evans). They mentioned that if it had been regular water based coolant they could have just applied heat and the water would have evaporated and then the solder would 'take'. I'm haste I assumed 4life might have caused the leak, but as you mention Iain, it's probably just found a weak spot. And so the thought of switching back to regular water based coolant came to mind and conundrum of whether I could having gone with 4life. ... and there you go. I hope it's filled a gap in your Friday evening

Thanks Colin. I thought I'd ask 4Life directly as well, so I phoned their technical helpline (on their website) and asked them what would be needed if I wanted to revert to regular water based coolant if currently using their product. The chap's response was simply "flush it through and refill with the coolant of your choice". He mentioned the fact that you can add water to the 4Life coolant if you're in a bind and don't have any to hand (roadside breakdown, stone through rad, lose hose, etc) and also mentioned that the product has a different composition to Evans waterless coolant. Evans apparently doesn't work with water, so you can't add water if you need a quick top up (disclaimer: I have no experience with Evans). He also mentioned there there could be some confusion between their product and the Evans product because Evans had branded or marketed their product as 'for life' and hence people confuse the two.

Hi all, I've read the debate on here and other forums about waterless vs water based collant, so not looking to reopen that debate. I currently have 4Life coolant in my standard GT6 Mk2 and want to revert to the standard water based AF (long story, which I won't bore you with!) I've been told that it isn't possible to convert back to water based AF as residue from 4Life remains in the cooling system even after extensive flusing and refreshing. Is this correct? Or is it possible to go from 4Life to regular water based coolant with, perhaps, a cleanser and extensive flusing of the system? Thanks

I had a similar problem with my modern car (E46 M3) and the garage I took it to said that the piston seal had failed leading to grit and grime getting in between the piston and the caliper housing (where the piston moves back and forth). A common problem on these cars apparently. It causes the outer side of the piston to become scared or marred to the point that it retains the grit and grime and eventually seizes. The only solution was a complete rebuild of the caliper (and likely continual rebuilds from time to time to clear the grime out) or a replacement. In addition, as this seizure had been happening for a couple of months the heat build up caused by constantly having the brake applied meant the disk was beginning to warp and the pads were starting to degrade due to excessive heat (the disk was reading over 250 Celsius after a 30 min drive compared with 37 Celsius for the other side). An eye watering repair cost (for the car it is) for a caliper, 2 disks and pads, but a quick one to do.

Also worth considering is the Hilliers fundamentals of automotive electronics. Not sure if it's still printed, maybe it is. I have an old version I bought from the library when they were renewing their stock and selling of the old stuff. Best 35p I spent!

Possibly. I'm not trying to make this personal - far from it. But it would be good to hear the thought process behind the decision. Chris has been good enough to explain the decision above, which I respect. My question goes to how we move forward - if, as Chris suggests, there will need to be a review of the club shop activities it would be good to know how that will work. Also, I would expect these questions would be ones that would be permissible at the AGM or other club meeting. I wasn't able to attend and I'm sure there are others too who weren't.

My understanding is that (i) the club shop is one of the larger sources of revenue for the club, and (ii) the performance of the club shop was one of the main factors leading to the club almost breaking even from a sizable loss the previous year. If these are true, can I ask two questions: * why it was the shop manager position that needed to be made redundant? and * if undertaking a review of what the club shop sells and how it markets its products wouldn't it be useful, possibly fundamental, to the success of that review to have the person who understands the club shop back-to-front to be part of that review?