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Jezza last won the day on January 20 2016

Jezza had the most liked content!

About Jezza

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    London / Surrey
  • Cars Owned
    1969 GT6 Mk2 | Valencia Blue

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  1. Haven't we all! Well, OK, you asked for it! As you mention in a later post, 4life will find any weak spots in your system - my guess is that most coolants will do so too..? Anyway, I had a leak from the rad that I couldn't identify the source for. So I took it to a garage to see if they could. They did, and also identified a small weep. Neither could be fixed apparently because the solder wouldn't 'take' and they thought the reason was because of the waterless coolant (that they mistakenly assumed was Evans). They mentioned that if it had been regular water based coolant they
  2. Thanks Colin. I thought I'd ask 4Life directly as well, so I phoned their technical helpline (on their website) and asked them what would be needed if I wanted to revert to regular water based coolant if currently using their product. The chap's response was simply "flush it through and refill with the coolant of your choice". He mentioned the fact that you can add water to the 4Life coolant if you're in a bind and don't have any to hand (roadside breakdown, stone through rad, lose hose, etc) and also mentioned that the product has a different composition to Evans waterless coolant. Evans
  3. Hi all, I've read the debate on here and other forums about waterless vs water based collant, so not looking to reopen that debate. I currently have 4Life coolant in my standard GT6 Mk2 and want to revert to the standard water based AF (long story, which I won't bore you with!) I've been told that it isn't possible to convert back to water based AF as residue from 4Life remains in the cooling system even after extensive flusing and refreshing. Is this correct? Or is it possible to go from 4Life to regular water based coolant with, perhaps, a cleanser and extensive flusing
  4. I had a similar problem with my modern car (E46 M3) and the garage I took it to said that the piston seal had failed leading to grit and grime getting in between the piston and the caliper housing (where the piston moves back and forth). A common problem on these cars apparently. It causes the outer side of the piston to become scared or marred to the point that it retains the grit and grime and eventually seizes. The only solution was a complete rebuild of the caliper (and likely continual rebuilds from time to time to clear the grime out) or a replacement. In addition, as this seizure h
  5. Also worth considering is the Hilliers fundamentals of automotive electronics. Not sure if it's still printed, maybe it is. I have an old version I bought from the library when they were renewing their stock and selling of the old stuff. Best 35p I spent!
  6. Great tip! Although I've already shelled out on some Dynamat and have it in my garage waiting to be installed...
  7. I bought a Halfords Advanced battery today for my GT6 (440 CCA & 50Ah rather than the rather shoddy 250 CCA & 35Ah I had before which was leaking). The power at start up is amazing in comparison and the idle speed is much more stable even when the Kenlow kicks in. £69 well spent I think.
  8. Jezza

    Car lift / tilter

    Very helpful, Richard (and others too!)
  9. Jezza

    Car lift / tilter

    Thanks for your thoughts on this. I do like the mobile axel stands solution which Richard posted which looks the cheapest and (more importantly) the least likely to fail. I've been doing minor jobs which don't need me to be under the car (eg rebuilding front suspension) with traditional axel stands and that's worked fine. I'm now considering replacing the gear box which will involve a lot more work and time (and no doubt swearing) under the car. Interestingly, these mobile axel stands are cheaper on flea-bay than direct via CJ Auto's website! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOBILE-AXLE-STANDS-C
  10. For some time i've been a bit worried about getting under my GT6 while it's on axle stands. Maybe it's just me but the spread of the feet on axle stands just doesn't seem to be enough to cope with a bit of vigorous pulling and pushing at the car (in relation to seized bolts only ) and have been thinking of some kind of lift alternative. The main problem is that I don't have any electricity in my garage so it would have to be a manual solution. I happened upon this on flea-bay when searching for something completely unrelated (that's never happened before, honest) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CA
  11. I can only comment on the seat pads, foams and straps which I purchased from Newtons (club shop didn't stock them when I redid my seats) for my mk2 GT6. They were very good and service was too. I reused the seat covers because they were in good nick, but it was a pain to fit the old seat covers over new foams so a lot of coffee, swearing and head scratching ensued. Using a hairdryer to soften the vinyl helped considerably as did the use of decent glue!
  12. Excellent video. Makes and engine rebuild look a doddle, which I'm sure it isn't
  13. I won't be salvaging the carpet part! It's completely threadbare especially on the RHS of the 'box tunnel where the drivers leg rests. I might try and salvage the gaiter part and use that with the new carpet... somehow. I'll have a look and see how it could be done.
  14. Jezza

    Petrol Pipe

    Excellent site Pete, thanks for posting this. Daft question possibly, how would I identify if my fuel hose is an R9? Is it printed on the hose?
  15. Am aware of the fitting issue(s), but thanks for the tip about the chrome top to the gearlever cover
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