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Joachim Moeller

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Everything posted by Joachim Moeller

  1. Hi Josef, that is my guess too. When you compare the original parts number for the Spitfire Mk3 holders - well they are different to the numbers that are sold (I should have had a look earlier). The angle just isn't right. I think I will go fishing for the older holders. I was lucky to find a set for my GT6 years ago at the Intrenational in Stafford (those were the times..) Cheers Joachim
  2. Hi all! Next problem/riddle... my Mk3 project should have the sun visors that can be "pushed to the side". So I provided myself with the fitting kit from Rimmers and while all the mounting points are there on the frame it's the visors that just don't line up. When they are fixed on the outside they point about 10cm (or 4") above the fixing in the middle. I've changed and re-changed all parts but with no success. Where is the problem or is it me having a brain failure? The fixings on my GT6 MkI were easy compared to those on the Spitfire... perhaps I should go for the early version (same as GT6 MkI)... Cheers Joachim
  3. Well.. as requested. It will take quite some time of fiddling to get the clearences and gaps right...IMG_6150.HEICIMG_6157.HEIC Cheers Joachim
  4. Thanks Josef and Neil ! That's what I did... I will see how it will work out with the bonnet in the next weeks. Cheer Joachim IMG_6124.HEIC
  5. Hi all. it's been quite a while... I'm making (slow) progress on my Spitfire Mk3 restoration and on fitting up the front valance I found that the holes for screwing the bracket to the chassis don't line up with the mounting holes. What have I got wrong (or has someone in the past changed the bonnet chassis hinges to a worse position)? Thanks for any help and cheers Joachim IMG_6121.HEIC
  6. I've used sikaflex on my Spitfire windows a few weeks ago and yesterday fitted them in the doors. The windows are perfectly fixed in their channels. I can definitely recomend. Cheers Joachim
  7. Fixed the windows in the channels with the use of Sikaflex and it worked very good. The bond is still curing but I expect it to be strong enough for several years of winding the windows up and down. Cheers Joachim
  8. Thanks for all your help. I've ordered some Sikaflex and will give it a try. Cheers Joachim
  9. That's what I thought might be the way to go. I just wondered whether someone has done this before and can recomend -well- glueing the window in the channel. TZhank you for your help Peter. Cheers Joachim
  10. Hi all, while dismantling my Spitfire Mk3 doors I was able to pull the doorglasses easily out as they had disintegrated from the lifting channesl. Now I have cleaned the channels and got a pair of new fixing rubbers but I cant get the glass in the channels (I don't want to break the glass with to much force). Now is there an alternative to the rubbers method that would fitting the glass in the channel make easier? Cheers Joachim
  11. I've been to Portmeirion a couple of years ago (walked there from Porthmadog) and I liked it very much. And yes , I even remember THE PRISONER (but haven't seen the remake). Cheers Joachim
  12. Thanks Pete, here you can see me going to work on my Spitfire. Cheers Joachim
  13. Hi Pete, thanks, as I understand the old spacers are made of asbestos. Will the wet and dry take off some material off the spacer should I get carried away and go beyond the gasket? Is there a potential heatlth issue (beside the regular health issues I have when i work on the cars...) Cheers Joachim
  14. Hi all, while restoring the SUs for my Spitfire Mk3 I came across the carb spacers. The problem is that the old gaskets have baked onto the spacers and they don't separate. What's the recommended way to get the old gaskets off? (Scrapping? Soaking?) Thanks for the help. Cheers Joachim
  15. Hi Richard, I've thought about an upgrade when I was suspecting the dynamo to be faulty. But all tests proved the dynamo to be in top condition. So I return to my initial plan to get the car restored to the most original and standart condition I can achieve. When (if ever) I am able to drive the GT6 (for the first time - I never did as it was non-runner-project when I bought it) I might decide on upgrades. Best wishes Joachim
  16. ... it was a faulty control box in the end! Cheers Joachim
  17. FIXED! The thread is 3/8 x 19 BSP - British Standard Pipe (or BSPP but NOT BSPT). It's a thread for plumbing applications - so, as it's for the heater valve in the cooling system this even makes sense. After re cutting it was easy to install the new valve using some sealing tape. Now that the leaking valve was fixed I was able to let the engine run for more than a few seconds (first time in about two decades). Only to find out that the ignition warning light doesn't extinguish... As the control box and the dynamo are among the few things I haven't touched yet they now get the attention they deserve. So perhaps see you in the Electrical System section soon! Cheers all Joachim
  18. Update (if anybody is interested). Thread is definitely not 5/8" - 18 UNF. I've tried (and it failed). Slotted thread of the old valve didn't work. I've searched the net and came across a file that suggests that the thread is a BSP thread. I've ordered an appropriate BSP tap today and I will see... Cheers Joachim
  19. Hi Richard and thank you for your threads file. I'm aware of the SAE bolt system but there are different pitches if it comes to UNF screws and for example -well - plumbing threads. If I compare the thread of the new valve to the thread of the tap in the picture there is a small difference between the flanges of the threads. And (as the thread is only about 1/2" long) I count on that lenght almost 9 pitches on the tap but a little bit more than the 9 pitches on the valve (if this makes sense). In the end it has to be secure and (water-)tight. I have cleaned and slotted the thread of the old valve and will try to screw that back in tomorrow to (hopefully) clean up the thread in the manifold... Perhaps this will do for the new valve to fit. Cheers Joachim
  20. Update. I've managed to get the old valve out of the manifold with the help of WD40 and some heat as suggested. Next chapter is that the new valve wouldn't go in as the old valve has sort of destroyed the thread. Does anybody know what thread we have here? It looks like 5/8" UNF. If that's the case I already have a tap (I've bought it for the crank bolt where the same had happened). Cheers Joachim
  21. Hi Dave, worth a try anyway. Cheers Joachim (I'm hoping to find some time to get it fixed this week)
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