TomL

Hi, I, too, have fitted GAZ telescopic dampers (from the club shop) and have been happy with the results. You will need the bracket that fits to the chassis which provides the top fixing for the damper. These are available from the club shop and, I believe, Canleys (and probably others too). I don't think you'll regret the change if you do it. I also suffered from the squeaking that dougbgt6 mentions; it's surprisingly loud but it does cease after a while. There is a silicone lubricant that comes with most polybushes and I think I may been a bit sparing with this, as I have heard that a liberal application of this stuff goes some way to prevent the squeak. Let us know how you get on. Tom

Hi Roger, It's great to hear about our cars that are actually used. Keep the photos and stories coming. Tom

Hi Gadgetman, As Steve C says and, yes, GT6 ones will fit a Vitesse.

Hi Caspar, Helpful bit of detective work there. I too (as Grahame) was told by my trusted MOT inspector that my handbrake (Vitesse MkII) had to meet a higher standard as it is considered an emergency brake in the event of hydraulic failure. Whilst I didn't know this to be fact at the time, I wasn't going to argue with him because I could see logic in his statement. If the brakes failed, I'd probably yank up the handbrake fairly firmly - and in that event I'd want it to work. Regards, Tom

Hi Robin, That's right; the Waeco ones are universal. The heating elements are smaller that you'd expect but are remarkably efficient. Obviously you have to remove the covers from the seats, which in the case of the MG seats was quite straightforward. Just a few clips and things. You need to take the seats out of the car to do it, so that you can turn them upside down. I recall that I didn't completely remove the covers - just opened them up enough to get the heating elements in. These are self-adhesive, so you need a bit of wriggle room. Then it's just a case of wiring them in. They come pre-wired with separate relays (one for each seat). Let us know how you get on. I don't think you'll regret fitting them. Tom

Hi Froc, The standard diff for a 2-litre Vitesse is 3.89:1. Always worth checking though because a PO could have fitted a different ratio. i would say try Mike Papworth for a recon diff (he advertises in the Courier). I've not had a diff or gearbox from him but I hear good things. I wouldn't think that was anything you can do to reduce free movement (other than a replacement diff) but the free movement you refer to may well be normal. Tom

Hi Richard, I thought all the tanks had this reserve feature but perhaps it was dropped at some point? Or could it have been removed by a PO? (It's only a simple lever and it'd probably come off quite easily.) Tom

Hi Bivvyman, As Richard says, an alternator is advisable if you're going to fit aftermarket electrical gadgets, and particularly seat heaters. Fitting an alternator is a relatively straightforward mod and has, I am sure, been covered in this forum, and if not, definitely in a back issue of the Courier. As for the use of the seat heaters, I have found them to be of huge benefit for top-down motoring. They warm up almost instantly - far quicker than the car's own heater. I use them quite a lot, particularly early mornings (as I'm currently using the Vitesse for work) and late evenings. I would even go so far as to say that they make the car more usable; I have done a few trips in the Vitesse that I otherwise wouldn't have, had it not been for the heated seats. Each to their own - I have heard some people say they can't stand them. But on a cold winter's morning... The ones I fitted were Waeco. I bought them on Ebay. Mine have a simple on/off switch but now I see you can get versions with a number of different temperature settings. Personally I would avoid ones with more than two settings, as I know I'd be forever fiddling with them. I used Mazda RX7 switches (also eBay) as the ones that came in the kit weren't that nice. Let us know how you get on. Tom

Thanks for posting photos; the seats look really good! I have had people assume that the ones in my car are original, which I take as a compliment. I also installed after-market seat heaters (the covers come off easily for fitting) and I have to say they are one of the best mods. Tom

Tom, Don't despair! Have you got a can of "Easy Start". This is something that is great at coaxing reluctant-starting engines into life, provided that you're getting a spark, which you are. It's got to be worth a try. The other thing I would suggest, as you say you're new to all of this, is to get yourself a copy of the "AA Book of the Car". First published in 1970, it's a great explanation of how our sort of cars work, covering just about every aspect. I bought my copy from a charity shop a few years ago now, but I dare say some sort of auction site might be able to help. There's a section on fault-finding. Do let us know how you're getting on. Tom

Hi Robin, That's great to hear. Any photos? Tom

Woah, Pete, I am not sure you should boast about that! The poor guy is probably still in therapy. Also not quite sure how this contributes to the topic. Tom

Oh no! I think you're absolutely right to make your next job checking for a spark. Did you set the points as described in the manual? Assuming you don't have a spark, I expect that you'll have to start putting back some of the old bits you've removed and keep on checking for a spark. Tom

Hi Tom, Have you made any progress with your chugging Spitfire? Tom

When you say it was hot, was it very hot, on the brink of overheating? Did the symptoms disappear when it cooled down? How old are the points and condenser? If they are old or unknown, it might be worth changing them to rule them out. Does the car have "wax stats"? Tom

Hi Tom, Welcome to the forum and to owning a Triumph. Whereabouts are you? Someone from your local area might be able to help. There is a wealth of knowledge there and usually some willing volunteer who'll take a look. Whereas the symptoms you describe might well be carb-related (does sound like fuel starvation), it could also be ignition-related - do you run points-and-condensor or electronic? Regards, Tom

Hi Clive, Thanks for posting this. Sounds like a good day/weekend event. Tom

I, too, have heard of this. I concur with Dougbgt6, soldering them up is a good solution. You are quite likely to run into the same problem if you buy a new one, so you might as well solder up the one you've got (which is still only a year old). Let us know how you get on. Tom

Hi mrantell, I think you make a good point. I think it is a good idea to have a brake-fluid warning-light on our cars, particularly as most employ a single-circuit system. I have a similar piece of kit on my car (a Vitesse). I have a handbrake warning-light (from a 60's Jag) on the dashboard in place of the old ignition switch (as converted to steering-lock) which doubles as both handbrake-warning and to monitor low fluid-llevel. To make the handbrake warning-light, I adapted something from a modern car (I expect most will do; mine was from a BMW e36), and for the reservoir-level, I used a Smiths aftermarket device that fits into the reservoir lid. There's a little button on the top that is used for testing. Your system sounds a little more sophisticated. But in any event, an early warning system for brake-fluid loss has got to be a good idea. Regards, Tom

My experience of using a grease-gun is similar to yours, Dougbgt6; oil pretty much everywhere but the trunnion. I have seen a small oil-gun on the market (don't recall where), which might be more manageable. Tom

Hi Andrew, I imagine it's a good idea. I don't have any first-hand experience of the the Lumenition Magnatronic system but I have had the Optronic system on my Vitesse since the 1980's and it's been reliable. Amongst other things, it compensates for certain amount of wear in the distributor but best of all it removes the points and condensor thus eliminating the problem of setting points, which wear and degrade over time. Tom

Gpyne, When you are buying the EP90 oil for your trunnions, make sure you get "GL4" spec, and not "GL5". GL5 is designed for higher loadings but it isn't kind to yellow metals. Stick with the GL4, plus you can use it for topping up the gearbox and diff. too. The club sells an oil-gun for the purpose of oiling trunnions. I've not actually seen said item but I assume it's less messy than using a grease-gun (although most people probably do this) as the grease-gun will leak a certain amount of oil out. It gets everywhere and it stinks! At the very least, use disposable gloves. Let us know how you get on.... Tom

I fitted mine with the rake-adjuster on the door side. Not because I wanted it here, it was because it resulted in the fore-aft adjuster being close to the gearbox-tunnell. I trialled the seats the other way around but felt that the fore-aft adjuster might catch your trouser leg when getting out of the car. I think it's down to personal preference. Tom

I would suggest giving Jigsaw a call. Tom

I have retained the original wheels and hubcaps on my otherwise much-modified Vitesse. For me, the fake Ro-Syles typify a particular range of Triumphs in the late sixties/early seventies. I realise that there are benefits of alloys but I am sticking to the original hubcaps. Tom