TomL

Hi Laurie, Nice idea but I don't believe you'd be able to remove and replace the diff in the way you describe. The only way for us home-mechanics is, in my opinion (as others have suggested), to remove both half-shafts, disconnect the prop shaft (obviously) and remove the spring from on top. You can then remove the diff from below. You won't be able to use ramps; it's an aisle-stand job. A spring-lifting tool makes it all very much easier both for disassembly and reassembly. My local area used to have a spring-lifting tool that it lent out to members. You might try your local area, as someone might have one you could borrow, Let us know how you get on. Regards, Tom

Hi, I use exactly those headlamp deflectors on the Vitesse. The photo is of the car on the ferry crossing, Portsmouth to Caen, last September as the start of a trip to The Dordogne. Originally belonging to my Granddad (they were used on his Dolomite), each had three elastic clips that fit to the chrome headlamp bezel to bring them into contact with the headlamp. For the Vitesse, this would mean the removal of the headlamp cowl, so I fit them using double-sided-tape (the type with a sort of foam infill) and they seem fine like this for a two-week jaunt. Let us know how you get on. Tom

As others have said, I can't believe they went ahead with the work without informing you that the head was already damaged. At least it would have given you a chance to give them another, undamaged head. Not a great advert for their work. I hope you have success with putting it right. Let us know how you get on. Regards, Tom

Hi Steve, I agree with Mark; all were mild steel and painted silver. Never were they stainless steel or galvanised. If you've found a good one, you're in luck, because they do rot. As to the colour, search the forum because members have worked out the correct shade of silver (as used on moderns), so worth a look to get it right. Let us know how you get on. Tom

Hi Andy, You must be kicking yourself! I think, like the other contributors, that this will not have done any lasting damage. If it were my car, I would run it with a bit of Redex in the first few tankfulls. Let us know how you get on once the tank's bee drained. Tom

As has been said, a lot depends on your driving style, as well as of course the type of driving you do; if it includes a fair bit of motorway use, you'll notice the benefit of the 3.63. One thing to mention is that you'll need to get your speedometer recalibrated. Let us know what you decide to do. Tom

Hi, I imagine that Ford Focus seats would be quite large and the high backs of most modern car seats will make them look even larger. Golf might be a better bet because an older Golf will be smaller than the more modern generation of cars. I think that the MGF seat is a good one because it is an unfussy design so can look almost original in one of our cars. I had XJS seats in my car for a while and they are supremely comfortable, not to mention very well made (and consequently quite heavy), but have now elected MGF on grounds of the way they look. Good luck and so please let us know what you decide. Tom

Brilliant video! Thanks for posting. Tom

Doug (sorry!); Doug, meet Clive! Clive, this is Doug. (By masking my mistake with introductions, I think I've got away with it).

Hi Hag and Clive, Hag, you should only need two relays. Their location is a tricky one as the length of cable that comes before any fuse will vulnerable in the under-bonnnet area on our cars, and therefore a fire risk. If you do fit your relays somewhere near the horns, the location of the fuses will be important to limit unfused length. Clive, interesting article. I always knew that loss of voltage to the lights leads to a far greater loss of output but hadn't realised it was as much as the article suggests. Good stuff. Tom

My own experience is that I have run my Vitesse without brake shields (they are incompatible with the vented-discs) for over 20-years with no issues. Let us know how you get on. Tom

Hello Neil, As the owner of an automatic Vitesse, I feel duty-bound to respond to your query (by "duty-bound", I actually mean "happy to contribute what I can"). The Dolomites used the Borg Warner 35, and I imagine that for the late ones the BW65 was used. Whichever one it is you are planning to use (the 65 is a bit more modern), it'll all be down to the width of the sump as to how easy/difficult it is to fit. With a six cylinder car, the length of the engine pushes the gearbox so far back in the chassis that there is insufficient space for such a big sump and consequently the chasssis' main-rails have to be altered (along with floor pans, of course). With a four cylinder engine, everything's a bit further forward, so there is more space for the gearbox. I think you'll have to get your tape-measure out. Is there a better alternative? Both the BW35 and the 65 are 3-speed and quite antiquated by today's standards (it's not uncommon for modern ones to be 8-speed!). You'll need to think about which diff you're using too. Are you intending to do the conversion yourself and if so, what are your engineering skills? It'll be an interesting project and I think you'll find the car much more usable. I am using the Vitesse for my daily commute at the moment, and the car is subjected to both the M25 and M23 in the rush hour. I have to say, there are not too many other 46-year-old cars doing this journey (or if there are, I don't see them). Keep us updated with progress. Tom

Great photos! Thanks for posting. It sounds like an amazing trip and as you say, just what the car was built for. Tom

It's definitely worth saving. Proper '60s style; I love the wrap-around window. If you don't want it I'm sure you'd have plenty of takers here. Tom

I've always used the Lucas yellow plastic clip-over lenses. They have three clips which fit to the headlights' chrome bezel but as these are a bit of a pain to get to on the Vitesse, I use three small squares of double sided tape. I expect you can find these on eBay but they'll probably be termed "vintage"! Tom

It sounds from your description that you have identified the fault to be the red/green wire. The bulbs are clearly ok, as is the flasher unit by the sound of it. When you were swapping wires over (under the bonnet) were you using the same bullet-connector for connecting to the sidelight/indicator unit? Is there any way that you can get a length of wire and simply bypass the suspect red/green wire just to check if this is indeed where the fault lies? Don't be defeated! Do, though, please let us know how you get on. Tom

Hi Richard, I am attaching a photo of the adaptation to the seat: I am not sure how clear it has come out but I used a release clip from another car to lock the seat back in the down position. With modern seats, with headrests, it's a case of the backrest folding forward, not the entire seat tipping (as the original Herald/Vitesse seats). If you try to make the entire MGF seat tip, the headrest will come into contact with the windscreen/sun-visor/or roof, preventing the the access you're trying to achieve. I am hoping to pop over to the Leatherhead SEM show tomorrow, Sunday, so if you're there do come and have a look. Regards, Tom

Hi, how long has the fan been fitted? Was there a period when it was all working fine? Have you checked the wiring, and is it fused? The draw of an electric fan should not be too much for the average alternator, particularly as I imagine the fan is less likely to be activated when there's other current being drawn such a headlights. Tom

Nice article. I have had MGF seats in my convertible Vitesse for about 7 years now and I think that they suit the car well. I had Jaguar XJC seats in for a very long time before these, and then a brief period with XJS seats. The XJS seats were by far the best quality but for me, the MGF seats look and fit best. Incidentally, I have made mine (well, the passenger one) tilt forward. I am not sure if Pete Lewis did this on his car but he did comment (I recall) on my conversion. The MGF seats look to have been designed with tilting forward in mind but I imagine that this feature was not specified for the MGF as there was no need for it. Whilst on the subject of seats and upgrades, I fitted after-market electric seat heaters and I must say that they make the car much more useable for top-down motoring in colder weather. Tom

The brakes on a 13/60 should be fine if working correctly. It's been said many times before, but don't fit a servo in response to a possible weakness in the braking system. I suggest checking the system over and adjusting the rears. I agree with Clive, take the car to a meeting where you will find a wealth of knowledge. Let us know how you get on, Tom

Hi David. How did you get on fitting the fan?

Yes this is a really good idea and it'll be a nice touch for our cars. Thanks to whoever thought of it and put it in production. Tom