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Kevin.payne.15

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Everything posted by Kevin.payne.15

  1. I have an auto adjusting slave cylinder on the GT6 that no longer auto adjusts and I cant find a replacement. Teeth missing and ratchet not working either Anyone know where I can get one please ? Thanks Kevin
  2. Does anyone have a scrap dashboard that I can buy. Don’t care what condition because all I want to do is to remove my current one and refurbish it but want to be able to drive car at the same time Thanks Kevin
  3. Doug. Where is your oil gauge pls. Mine is on the passenger dashboard. Thanks kevin
  4. Sorry been away. Pipes new and flexible ones replaced last year. I think I’ll risk a general fluid swap only and report back if unsuccessful. Sounds best to flush so I’ll suck out mineral first then flush with silicone. The volume is small so wastage won’t break the bank as shown in the Buckeye report, the mineral is heavier so won’t float to the top unfortunately so expect a bit of a flush will be required kevin
  5. I too explored shortening the pipe and couldn’t and the guys at Moss suggested strongly against trying. I have the coil behind the passenger shelf. It doesn’t affect function as far as I can tell kevin
  6. Ok so I’m going flexi with silicone. What do I need to do to the brake system to commonise the fluid to silicone all round? Re tunnel. I bought a strip of the sponge sealing tape that worked ok on the sides but was miles off at the front top. I made up some clips that screw in from the engine bay to close the gap, again into anchor nuts. A round of duct tape does the rest. I also insulated it with the film from merlin motorsport kevin
  7. Thanks all. Adrian, funnily enough I’ve already made the access panel as shown. It’s held on at the back with anchor nuts kevin
  8. All. Just had the bonnet up and seen that the GT6 clutch master cylinder has been weeping and eaten the paint on the bulkhead. Im going to replace with a new unit as I did seals a few years ago but whilst at I thought that I might replace the pipe as well as I think it’s the original and must be pretty fatigued by now. What’s recommended, go for the solid pipe or get a braided rubber hose? Also, does anyone know how to neutralise the leaked fluid and prevent further erosion ? thanks kevin
  9. Thanks. Don’t think double sided will work. The gaps are huge. If I use pu, can you ever remove or will it remove the body paint as well ? kevin
  10. All I need to find a way or attach the rear “horseshoe” trims on the GT6 mk 3 boot. I couldn’t find new ones to fit so have re chromed the old ones but I’m reluctant to use the original clips because of the damage they have already done to the paintwork and body i was thinking silver sealant of some sort. Any ideas pls thanks Kevin
  11. Paul. Link doesn’t work for me. It’s directing me to a google mail account. Any further clues pete yes tried a few but haven’t found one that has replacement vinyl material Thanks kevin
  12. Can you provide contact details for the Webasco sunroof refurbished please mine is split and now leaking. Needed for GT6 thanks kevin
  13. All resolved. Went to Moss today and bought their switch. It works fine! Rimmer have a duff batch. Kevin
  14. Took it apart to see and the rocker switch element rubs on a metal h section that makes the contacts. Problem is that this h section sits on two metal lumps which are the back end of pins 3&4 so they are always going th be connected what spit was the wiring diagram taken from pls kevin
  15. Well I can but it kinda defeats the object. And I’m desperate to refit the switch and dashboard as I’ve got to put the car into storage I was really hoping to find the switch in error but having two the same is the bugger regards confused of Bristol
  16. Ok guys I’m completely flummoxed now I’ve splashed the cash with mr Rimmer and had delivered a switch that has exactly the same connectivity as the one I fitted a few weeks ago now it’s entirely possible that there is a bad batch but I rather expect it isnt what I have is that pins 3&4 are always connected which explains why the hazard light is on constantly rock the switch one way and 3&4 connect to 1&2 switch it the other way then 3&4 connect to 7&8 im lost , anyone got a better idea than taking up Gin? kevin
  17. Source is rimmer but manufacturer is unknown. It’s sold as a Lucas i absolutely agree it’s a pain. Don’t worry about stripping out. I ordered a replacement for tomorrow thanks kevin
  18. When you take the switch apart then there is no way thar 3&4 will ever be separated from each other. There is a common copper strip that goes over both. Im confused, I can’t believe the switch is wrong, I’m just doing something very wrong kevin
  19. Quite. I think your right personally but don’t have an alternative switch yet to test the theory think it’s worth the risk to order one however thanks kevin
  20. Pin 1 = green red from indicator bulb pin2= green white from indicator bulb pin 3= light green pink from the hazard flasher unit. This one should be permenantly live pin 4= light green green that goes to the hazard warning light pin 7 = light green slate that goes off to the indicator flasher pin 8= green is the switched live that comes from the ignition
  21. Ok so I’ve spent the afternoon taking the dashboard back out to test continuity of pins etc see image below I’m note sure the switch is correct test results as attached as I understand it, when the switch is in the off posn( ie hazards don’t work) then 7&8 should be joined but none of the others should be. On my switch when in off mode, points 3,4,7&8 are all connected. I think this means we have two lives going to the switch and when the ignition is off, the live from the flasher unit is earthing out through the oil and ignition lamps when in on mode pins 123&4 all connect which is I think correct thoughts anyone?
  22. Yes I thought about the old switch but in the time taken by speedy cables to restore the speedo I stupidly thought I would have a tidy up on the grounds that I’m moving house. I was concerned that I might have the wrong switch because Moss don’t sell GT 6 parts always but I think it must be common with other models and can’t believe that even triumph would have two I think from memory and the wiring diagram that the two circuits should run independently ? If I take off both the light green/ pink input and light green/ green and see what happens ? I can kinda understand some of the circuit but don’t really get how, when the direction switch is closed to saw the red green link, how does the direction indicator lamp earth out to work ? Kevin
  23. Pete the entire loom was replaced. All went well until the main dash loom was replaced along with the hazard switch earths. Don’t know where to start. Lights and horn work ok. Fuses were lose but I’ve tightened up already. Thoughts? kevin
  24. All. Further to the question on the GT6 mk 3 hazard switch wiring configuration I’ve still got something wrong and can’t work it out. I’ve checked everything and can’t find the error. I should note that I’ve recently changed the loom for a new one and also the switch because a tab on the back snapped off so this is the problem. With the switch wired up as normal and the hazard switch and ignition turned off, when I connect the battery I get the hazard flasher unit clicking and the hazard warning , oil and ignition lights all flashing but the indicators don’t flash When I do engage the Hazard switch the hazard warning , oil and ignition lights go out and indicators flash normally ive tested every combination of power being supplied to the hazard switch, power supply being broken, hazard switch either on or off and indicators either on or off results are in the table attached every time there is an error I’ve shaded the box red anyone got a clue what I do next i haven’t started the car for obvious reasons to have an error on the lights is one thing , to have an error on the ignition current would be another regards kevin
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