[Rear brake adjusters on a GT6 Mk 3]

I have an auto adjusting slave cylinder on the GT6 that no longer auto adjusts and I cant find a replacement.  Teeth missing and ratchet not working either 

 

Anyone know where I can get one please ?

 

Thanks

 

Kevin

[GT6 Dashboard]

Does anyone have a scrap dashboard that I can buy.  Don’t care what condition because all I want to do is to remove my current one and refurbish it but want to be able to drive car at the same time 

Thanks Kevin

[Solid pipe or flexi]

Doug. Where is your oil gauge pls. Mine is on the passenger dashboard. 

 

Thanks 

kevin

[Solid pipe or flexi]

Sorry been away. Pipes new and flexible ones replaced last year. I think I’ll risk a general fluid swap only and report back if unsuccessful.  Sounds best to flush so I’ll suck out mineral first then flush with silicone.  The volume is small so wastage won’t break the bank 

as shown in the Buckeye report, the mineral is heavier so won’t float to the top unfortunately so expect a bit of a flush will be required

kevin

[Solid pipe or flexi]

I too explored shortening the pipe and couldn’t and the guys at Moss suggested strongly against trying. I have the coil behind the passenger shelf. It doesn’t affect function as far as I can tell

kevin

[Solid pipe or flexi]

Ok so I’m going flexi with silicone. What do I need to do to the brake system to commonise the fluid to silicone all round? 

Re tunnel. I bought a strip of the sponge sealing tape that worked ok on the sides but was miles off at the front top. I made up some clips that screw in from the engine bay to close the gap, again into anchor nuts.  A round of duct tape does the rest. I also insulated it with the film from merlin motorsport 

kevin

[Solid pipe or flexi]

Thanks all. 

Adrian, funnily enough I’ve already made the access panel as shown.  It’s held on at the back with anchor nuts 

kevin

[Solid pipe or flexi]

All. Just had the bonnet up and seen that the GT6 clutch master cylinder has been weeping and eaten the paint on the bulkhead. 

Im going to replace with a new unit as I did seals a few years ago but whilst at I thought that I might replace the pipe as well as I think it’s the original and must be pretty fatigued by now. What’s recommended, go for the solid pipe or get a braided rubber hose?

Also, does anyone know how to neutralise the leaked fluid and prevent further erosion ?

thanks

kevin

[Rear trim attachment]

Thanks. Don’t think double sided will work. The gaps are huge. 

If I use pu, can you ever remove or will it remove the body paint as well ?

 

kevin

[Rear trim attachment]

All

I need to find a way or attach the rear “horseshoe” trims on the GT6 mk 3 boot. I couldn’t find new ones to fit so have re chromed the old ones but I’m reluctant to use the original clips because of the damage they have already done to the paintwork and body

i was thinking silver sealant of some sort. Any ideas pls

thanks Kevin

[Webasto Sunroof Refurbishment]

Thanks kevin

 

[Webasto Sunroof Refurbishment]

Paul. Link doesn’t work for me. It’s directing me to a google mail account. Any further clues

pete  yes tried a few but haven’t found one that has replacement vinyl material

 

Thanks

kevin

[Webasto Sunroof Refurbishment]

Can you provide contact details for the Webasco sunroof refurbished please mine is split and now leaking. Needed for GT6 

 

thanks

kevin

[Further wiring conundrum that I can’t solve]

All resolved. Went to Moss today and bought their switch. It works fine!  

Rimmer have a duff batch. 

 

Kevin

[Further wiring conundrum that I can’t solve]

Took it apart to see and the rocker switch element rubs on a metal h section that makes the contacts. 

Problem is that this h section sits on two metal lumps which are the back end of pins 3&4 so they are always going th be connected

what spit was the wiring diagram taken from pls

 

kevin

[Further wiring conundrum that I can’t solve]

Well I can but it kinda defeats the object. And I’m desperate to refit the switch and dashboard as I’ve got to put the car into storage 

I was really hoping to find the switch in error but having two the same is the bugger

regards

confused of Bristol

[Further wiring conundrum that I can’t solve]

Ok guys I’m completely flummoxed now  

I’ve splashed the cash with mr Rimmer and had delivered a switch that has exactly the same connectivity as the one I fitted a few weeks ago  now it’s entirely possible that there is a bad batch but I rather expect it isnt

what I have is that pins 3&4 are always connected which explains why the hazard light is on constantly

rock the switch one way and 3&4 connect to 1&2  switch it the other way then 3&4 connect to 7&8

im lost , anyone got a better idea than taking up Gin? 

kevin

[Further wiring conundrum that I can’t solve]

Source is rimmer but manufacturer is unknown. It’s sold as a Lucas 

i absolutely agree it’s a pain. Don’t worry about stripping out. I ordered a replacement for tomorrow 

 

thanks

 

kevin

[Further wiring conundrum that I can’t solve]

When you take the switch apart then there is no way thar 3&4 will ever be separated from each other. There is a common copper strip that goes over both. 

Im confused, I can’t believe the switch is wrong, I’m just doing something very wrong  

kevin

 

 

[Further wiring conundrum that I can’t solve]

Quite. I think your right personally but don’t have an alternative switch yet to test the theory 

think it’s worth the risk to order one however

thanks

 

kevin

[Further wiring conundrum that I can’t solve]

Pin 1 = green red from indicator bulb

pin2= green white from indicator bulb

pin 3= light green pink from the hazard flasher unit. This one should be permenantly live

pin 4= light green green that goes to the hazard warning light

pin 7 = light green slate that goes off to the indicator flasher 

pin 8= green is the switched live that comes from the ignition 

[Further wiring conundrum that I can’t solve]

Ok so I’ve spent the afternoon taking the dashboard back out to test continuity of pins etc see image below

I’m note sure the switch is correct test results as attached

as I understand it, when the switch is in the off posn( ie hazards don’t work) then 7&8 should be joined but none of the others should be. 

On my switch when in off mode, points 3,4,7&8 are all connected. I think this means we have two lives going to the switch and when the ignition is off, the live from the flasher unit is earthing out through the oil and ignition lamps

when in on mode pins 123&4 all connect which is I think correct

thoughts anyone?  

[Further wiring conundrum that I can’t solve]

Yes I thought about the old switch but in the time taken by speedy cables to restore the speedo I stupidly thought I would have a tidy up on the grounds that I’m moving house. 

I was concerned that I might have the wrong switch because Moss don’t sell GT 6 parts always but I think it must be common with other models and can’t believe that even triumph would have two

I think from memory and the wiring diagram that the two circuits should run independently ? If I take off both the light green/ pink input and light green/ green and see what happens ? 

I can kinda understand some of the circuit but don’t really get how, when the direction switch is closed to saw the red green link, how does the direction indicator lamp earth out to work ? 

 

Kevin

[Further wiring conundrum that I can’t solve]

Pete the entire loom was replaced. All went well until the main dash loom was replaced along with the hazard switch

earths. Don’t know where to start. Lights and horn work ok. Fuses were lose but I’ve tightened up already. 

Thoughts?

kevin

[Further wiring conundrum that I can’t solve]

All. Further to the question on the GT6 mk 3 hazard switch wiring configuration I’ve still got something wrong and can’t work it out. I’ve checked everything and can’t find the error. I should note that I’ve recently changed the loom for a new one and also the switch because a tab on the back snapped off

so this is the problem. With the switch wired up as normal and the hazard switch and ignition turned off, when I connect the battery I get the hazard flasher unit clicking and the hazard warning , oil and ignition lights all flashing but the indicators don’t flash

When I do engage the Hazard switch the hazard warning , oil and ignition lights go out and indicators flash normally

ive tested every combination of power being supplied to the hazard switch, power supply being broken, hazard switch either on or off and indicators either on or off 

results are in the table attached every time there is an error I’ve shaded the box red  

anyone got a clue what I do next 

i haven’t started the car for obvious reasons  to have an error on the lights is one thing , to have an error on the ignition current would be another

regards

 

kevin