Kevin.payne.15

I've just completed a head rebuild on the GT6 and ran it for the first time last week end For reasons that I'm not sure about it ran very very hot and we even had steam escaping from the top pipe into the radiator We have investigated and the thermostat appears to work Tonight my son has tried again and topped up the water whilst warming up. He then allowed to warm up further and stopped the car. After a few seconds we had a "rumbling" noise and then he loosened the rad cap which then Vesuvius erupted hot water all over the car, garage, floor ceiling ! Far too much water for the release of pressure. Is this normal ? Any clues what's happening? Thanks Kevin and Chris

That might explain why the pipes on one are hard to engage!

All Unfortunately many years ago at the start of the rebuild i took the air vents complete with pipe work from the inside of the car. And no stupidly I didn't take any photos. Just to help confuse there are three outlets so two go on one side and one on the other. Question is which way round? Anyone got a photo to help position please Regards Kevin

Sorry for the late question but I'm interested in the need to have a mid box or not. I think I have a semi sport rear box on the GT6 but also have a mid box and kinda presumed that this was necessary irrespective of what tail pipes you went for The image shows the twin pipes sports but no mid box Is this an option for the semi sport that I have to help it breeth better ? Thanks Kevin

No. Tappet gap was at very best marginal on the first few then failed on the next couple. Gap yes but not 0.01 and my fear was that with the further head bolt down after 500 miles then I would have run out of range completely Chris wittor was the only person to have some 8.00 push rods. What o don't understand is how the standard ones work on conventional engines because all I've effectively done is convert a 2000 to a GT6. Kevin

Mine is a late swing spring version and I've fitted 175/70 uniroyals and they looked pretty decent and were considerably cheaper than dunlops I'll try the 24/28 and see how it goes. It seems strange to have the higher pressure on the rear when all weight is on the front wheels or am I the only one who believes this? The previous owner of the wheels was running them on a tyre from 1985 which was pretty firm ! Thanks Kevin

Guys. I've changed the wheels on the GT6 to the 5.5 inch versions. Does anyone know the correct tyre pressure that should be used. Mines a non rotoflex version. Thanks Kevin

Pete. Sorry for the delay. Been traveling on business and life getting in the way. It's all part of the head skim saga that has been in several links on the site in recent months......yes it has been going on that long We assembled the head after a skim but didn't get shorter push rods and had a valve touch a piston. Thankfully I didn't try and turn over on the starter so didn't think I had damaged anything but when shorter rods fitted and engine started I had low compression on one cylinder and whilst I checked the head for leaks I couldn't really find any so decided to take a piston out to see if I had lost a ring or anything ......nope So all back together after having valves recut again ( see the link on valves and groves by me ) and now got the front carb leaking petrol from its bum. Another set of needle valves ordered from burlen ( so much cheaper that rimmer ) and also a fuel pressure regulator to help Then I might get the car on the road this year Kevin

This is what the valve currently looks like. I think it's a case of a trip to the local valve cutter for me!

Nope no valve cutter available. Headache pills issued every time I step into the garage as preparation for the next set of woes.

Yes I believe they are. Seats replaced 2 years ago Engine is actually a 2000 me 2 converted to gt6 compression standard. You can see all the posts on the site in recent months. Must be the longest rebuild in history! Kevin

Pete. The inserts were new a year ago and the valve was new from moss. I managed to get a reasonable gray line about 2 mm wide all around the valve so it must have been pretty close to the seat to get the wear mark .....but I've got groves The worry is that if I carry on with grinding paste do I just perpetuate the groves now that they have started ? Kevin

Managed it but it's a struggle and took far longer than hoped. Given that I've the head off next time I'll lift the engine out as I think it would be quicker Kevin

Help please I've had to replace two valves in the engine and hoped that I had cut them in sufficiently with coarse then fine paste. I've managed to get a even gray colour but if I drag my nail over the surface I can still feel some surface roughness - it's as if I have concentric rings. Not sure this is right nor how to remove them because we've been going with the fine for ages I've reassembled the head and have tested with petrol to see if it's leaking and kinda think it is. Is petrol too tough a test or should I use a more viscous liquid? Suggestions please on removing the concentric rings if this is the cause? Thanks Kevin

Ok thanks I'll have a go Kevin

Guys I've had a peep under the sump and what do you suggest to jack up on. Not much other that the fan and timing ring? Kevin

Guys Whilst the Haynes only has a section on the sump removal whilst the engine is out of the car, is it possible to remove the sump with the engine still in place? Thanks in advance Kevin

Why replace? Well the honest answer is that I'm afraid that I slightly bent one but that's another story I had the head gas flowed a couple of years ago and it's got tapered guides and polished ports but for some reason he didn't insert gas flowed valves. Exhaust is tubular as well. So I need to do something ! The question is what? Kevin

I have to replace a valve on the gt6 and have the option of fitting "gas flow" or "normal". I bought one of each from Chris Witor as a just in case but neither matches the other 5 that are fitted so I suspect I'll be replacing all 6 at this rate Question is, is there much difference between the two and can I fit a gas flow on a head that had a normalish one on it previously Clearly I'll need to grind them in either way Kevin

Pete. Hard to tell what to set to as actually mine is a 2000 that I've just head skimmed to gt6 compression. I was going to set to13 dog but looking at the book it suggests 7. Mine doesn't tick over at 600 so go for 7 and see if it runs? On a separate item I've tried to load a picture but it doesn't appear to work from an iPad. Is it me or a quirk of the system? Kevin

Guys. I've splashed the cash and bought a timing light and have read the Haynes manual for the car(GT6 mk 3) and it says for emission controlled cars then leave the vac line attached. I'm presuming that uk cars were not regulated and as such I should time with the vac line off? Is this correct? Thanks Kevin

Thanks I've booked my slot for September! Kevin

I've tried replacing most things on the rear drivechain so have got to the point of planning to swap out the diff. Does anyone know or recommend a decent source of diff rebuilds and is it worth going the whole hog and changing the crown wheel? Thanks Kevin

Guys. On my last thread with the assistance of many others I've correctly identified the engine as a mk 2 2000 with domed Pistons. Thanks I've very accurately ( I hope) measured everything as suggested with the oil and plate 3 times to get consistent measurements and derived a dome volume of 7.5 cc where as the link as provided by Clive says it should be 8.66 cc. Humph Ok so not a massive difference but it does make a difference to the planned head skim values. Does anyone have an alternative value? Were they different on the 2000 to gt6's? At a bit of a loss now! Makes a mockery of the accuracy if I just use this different number Thanks Kevin

Has anyone swapped from a semi sports exhaust to the club shop twin pipe? Does it make much difference? I already have a 631 manifold but never swapped the rear box. Is it that much noisier ? Thanks Kevin