KevinR

Is there any reason that HS4s have been used, the standard fit for the GT6 is Strombergs. To get HS4s to fit under the bonnet requires using much shorted dashpots - possibly from a Dolly Sprint AFAICR.

I've been running a test for a couple of days and its all working for me. All I can suggest is switching it off and switching it on again.

GL5 (of any composition) is fine for oiling trunions !!! GL5 compositions that are NOT "yellow metal friendly" only become a problem when they get very hot and are under extreme shear stresses - as one gets in a differential. http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/brochures/g2457_gearlube_study.pdf ALL GL5 compositions CAN cause problems with brass synchro rings in the gearbox. https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf

I'd use something like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-pipe-thread-seal-50g/4373j?_requestid=210147

Peter, The problem appears to be that Pete uses a very old computer with a very old web browser. The supplier of our forum software provide regular security updates to protect us all from hackers and other malevolent people who want to break into the servers to flood us with malware, spam and worse. It would appear that a recent security update disabled the ability for the forum to work with old unsupported operating systems and web browsers - just try accessing the forum using Microsoft Internet Explorer if you want an example. As Pete was using an old and unsupported web browser, he has fallen victim to this security update. I have provide Pete with examples of web browsers that "should" still work with his old operating system, but I've not heard of any sucess (yet). The real solution is for Pete to update the OS on his computer to something that is not 21 years old, and stopped being supported more than 10 years ago, so that he can run a more modern and supported web browser.

As Adrian says, drill a hole at the end of each crack to "arrest" them. Then I would weld them (leaving the hole) ensuring good penetration of the weld.

It depends on which model of Spitfire. Essentially, the MKIV and early 1500 Spitfire column is the same as the MKIII GT6 column. The late 1500 Spitfire column is completely different - but can be fitted fairly easily with other modifications to the electrics and the upper mounting brackets. AFAIK, the Spitfire 4, 4 MKII and MKIII columns are the same as the GT6 MK1 and MK2. But ultimately, all MKs of Spitfire columns can be fitted to all MKs of GT6

I'm using Hobbygas from my local supplier, Fowlmere Welding. Got a bottle of pure Argon for the TIG and a CO2/Argon mix for the MIG.

Is it possible that you have a calibration problem with your torque wrench ? Even expensive high quality ones are notoriously inaccurate and should be checked on a calibrator before every use.

I know about the problems with the new type 16 calipers, and would always go for a refurbished ones, but what about type 14 ? What is the current opinion regarding the quality of the new type 14 calipers ? Are they worth the £10 to £15 more than refurbished ones ?

I once had a "garage" like that, and the local Council jobsworth objected to it as a car that was not on its own four wheels could fall off the axel stands and injure some scrote trying to climb over it. Dont have those problems any more - my only issue being that I dont have the ceiling clearance to get a 2 or 4 post lift , and I'm not particularly keen on digging a pit.

Just to rub it in a bit more, the back garage is 40ft long by 15ft wide, and the front garage is "only" 30ft long by 15ft wide for the front half and 10ft wide for the back half. There are still 2 GT6's at the very back of the back garage !

I've finally found time to dig the Spitfire out of the garage and start recommissioning it. I drove it into the back garage back in May 2015, just before I started the build of my new extension, and it has slumbered there since then. When I put it away it had approximately 1/3rd of a tank of 97 octane unleaded (probably also E5, but I cant remember) Anyway, I started digging it out yesterday - the battery was as flat as a pancake - read 0.00V on the digital multimeter, so I put it on charge for 24 hours using an old school 10A battery charger. This afternoon, the moment of truth - put the key in the ignition and tried to start it without the choke. Engine turned over, I could hear the fuel pumping to the carbs and I watched the oil light go out and the oil pressure build up on the pressure gauge - probably no more than 10 seconds of cranking. A few seconds later, there were a couple of coughs and the engine burst into life - a little rough without the choke, but as soon as I pulled the choke out it ran a lot better. Put the car in gear and drove forward out of the back garage, through the front garage and onto the driveway. The clutch plate was NOT seized, but the brakes are a little stiff, I think that the master cylinder bore may have corroded, so there will need to be a little work done there. All rubber hoses still OK, all rubber boots on the track rod ends, steering rack and front uprights still OK. Allowed the engine to warm up and put the choke in, its running really sweet - all on SEVEN year old fuel !!! Just need to give the braking system the once over, probably strip and rebuild the master cylinder and check the brake flexi hoses and she will be ready to drive across the road to the Duxford Triumph day on the 4th September.

Colin, its not a part number, its a serial number. If it was a part number, all chassis would have the same number on the tag. I guess that they were used on the production line to make sure that the correct pre-assembled chassis assembly was married up to the correct partially assembled bodyshell.

The number that is on the CHASSIS is NOT, and I repeat NOT the "Chassis Number". It is a manufacturing serial number for the chassis. Likewise, the similar sized tag that is riveted to the body is NOT the "Chassis Number", it is the manufacturing serial number of the bodyshell. DO NOT and I really mean DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE provide these numbers to the DVLA, as they do not understand them and will immediately assume you car is a ringer and at best you will end up getting a Q plate, at worst, the car will be confiscated and crushed. Also, beware of MOT testers who don't understand OLD cars. It has been known (on many documented occasions) that they have provided either the body manufacturing serial number or the chassis manufacturing serial number to the DVLA when they do the MOT rather than providing the "Commission Number" that is stamped on the much larger plate that is riveted to the body. As soon as the DVLA are given the wrong number, you problems start and there is never a happy ending.

Is it possible that the non return valves in the old pump have been incorrectly fitted when it was rebuilt ?

The lever of both the long lever and the short lever pump goes on the outer side of the cam. The long lever pump (plus the spacer) was introduced to try and reduce the temperature of the pump, which in turn would reduce the temperature of the fuel arriving in the carburettors and as a result improve the fuel consumption and reduce the emissions (ever so slightly) The pumps are effectively interchangeable - as long as you use a spacer with the long lever one. If using the long lever pump and spacer, you also need longer studs on the block.

Can we please have a photo of the pump mounted on the engine block - need to understand if you are using a spacer or not. To me, the old pump looks like a short lever pump that does NOT require the spacer between the pump and the block, and the new pump looks like a long lever pump that DOES require the spacer

I’d be more concerned about working out why there was a pin prick hole there ? was it an old steel pipe that had corroded ? if it was, how may other steel pipes are there left on the car just waiting to do the same thing ? if it was a copper or cunifer pipe, did something abrade through it, and if so, is the same thing about to happen on the other side

You need to work out a safe way to draw fuel from the tank and get it to the inlet of the pump. The old school way would have been to suck on the pipe, but the risk of getting a mouth full of petrol makes this a bad way of doing it. If you have a large syringe - such as for drawing up oil - then use this to draw the fuel from the tank. Once there is fuel at the input to the pump, it should work. This will also reveal if there are any air leaks at any of the joints along the way.

Beware the ratings, a 1 tonne crane is only rated to lift 1 tonne at the shortest extension. For each step of extension the rating is marked on the crane. On the Clarke CFC100 crane, it’s only rated at 250kg at full extension, so only just enough for a 6 cylinder engine on its own, it’s not sufficient for a 6 cylinder engine with all the ancillaries and a gearbox attached.

I think anti-squeal shims are made of stainless steel sheet, and probably thinner than 0.5mm

No it didn't. On the MKIV, the key changed to a bigger key, but it was still single sided, same on the MK3 GT6. This bigger key remained with the early 1500 Spits, and only changed to a double sided key when the steering column was changed to the TR7 style column with the ignition lock up close to the steering wheel rather than deep down between ones knees. I believe, that when the 1500 went for the TR7 style column, that the double sided ignition key was the same as the door key, but as all the ones I've encountered have had different keys (cut from the same blank) I cant confirm it.

"Normal" lead acid batteries and Calcium batteries are both fairly similar. In a standard lead acid battery there is a small amount of antinomy alloyed into the lead plates, where as in the Calcium battery, there is a small amount of Calcium alloyed into the lead plates. A Calcium battery is usually lower maintenance than a traditional lead acid battery, suffers lower sulphating rates and a lower self discharge rate. On a car that is infrequently used, a Calcium battery has its advantages, especially if a battery conditioner is not being used. On the down side, a Calcium battery requires a slightly higher charge voltage, so your generator/alternator will need to be in tip top condition.

The best I can get out of Invision is that they "officially" support the "last two major releases" of browsers. And "we don't go out of our way to break things in older browsers either, but if a bug is only present in a particular old browser at this point in time the solution is clear - upgrade your browser" Which is not particularly helpful. If one is using an old (unsupported) operating system that particular browser suppliers have dropped support for their browser, then there are two solutions : 1. Upgrade the operating system to one that can handle a more modern and better supported browser 2. Change to a browser that is better supported on that old operating system - for example K-Meleon, http://kmeleonbrowser.org/download.php which is kept up to date and suitable for computers that are still running XP.