thescrapman

No, floor pan has a flange that goes downwards I think

And tensioner. that said, modern tensioner are apparently of poor quality, the friend that rebuilt my engine insisted on a good secondhand one.

It I should worth blue-printing the oil pump, or buying one that has been done for you. quality and tolerances of new ones can be variable

I am pretty sure my 1144 are not marked as such, need to go and look. Anyway, it is only marked on the box and not the pads, so throw box away and deny you fitted them, saying they were fitted when you purchased the car. Who strips a car they have just purchased and checks every component is E-marked. Though thinking about it the E-marking only applies to cars newer than ours.

Now you have taken the piston out you may need to hone the bores and fit new rings. I haven't twice now and ended up with ver y heavy oil consumption, Andy the. Someone told me not to take pistons out.

Different flywheels takes care of that. i need to see if I ca get a couple of photos.

I did mention, the MB engine will not work with the Vitesse flywheel as the MB crank is an inch longer, so fitting the Vitesse flywheel puts it an inch further back. It needs a Mk1 2000 flywheel.

Early 2000 saloon have the bossless blocks, certainly still there a year into production. well more like an early boss before it grew up properly. an adaptor could be made up I reckon, they are not tapped I think.

That is a TR5 wheel, so has 10000% TR tax on it. And it is in Germany, so that doubles the price as they are not allowed to fit a non-standard wheel I think.

I had one converted to overdrive, it took the internals from an early 3-synchro Spitfire box. Soooo light compared to the cast iron version. Swapped it for a Mk4 OD box and a couple of hundred quid as someone was keen on it.

We could do with a photo of other side of airbox, might help identify it better

Oh, and you need to shave a bit off the OD adaptor plate or you can not get the reverse switch in.

I had 2 1850 single rail boxes converted to 3 rail a few weeks ago. I just supplied him a casing with the reverse lever and gear for each, and some top covers. don’t forget the prop will need shortening an inch.

Doesn’t need to be a GT6 or Vitesse one, any 4synchro one will do, so Mk4 Spitfire, Toledo, 1850 Dolly etc. You only need the casing and the reverse gear and actuating arm from the main bit. Fitchetts have brand new selector assemblies, if not any 4 synchro one will do. Ebay item number 113302847225 I have all the parts if you get stuck. Cheers Colin

Certainly ask him to investigate theUJ, it is probably easiest to just get it replaced and correct circlips sized and fitted. Fit best available, Freelander ones of some description. if there is play in inner rear wishbones, you will get knocks and rear end will feel a bit floaty.

You need a flywheel from an early Mk1 2000 engine, all 4 that you have are for short back cranks, you need the one for the long back crank. there should be someone in the UK that can supply one, suspect postage may be prohibitive though.

That is what you need, come back to us and we willl tell you which bits in the kit not to use.

Will it work with the flywheel from a long back crank engine (Mk1 2000 saloon?) I think trying to use the flywheel from a short back crank is putting the flywheel too far back. can you get a photo of your Vitesse flywheels mounted to the engine?

Those conical covers were nice a flexible whe new, you could just roll them back to access the UJ and then when finished roll them back over the UJ. After a few year short they tend to go rock hard, I nearly end up cutting them off in disgust.

It is probably a more comfortable hobby now, more likely to get the keys to a large SUV than a Herald, or worse a Spitfire or TR. And the more mature members moan about their backs, think we know why. 🙂

So are the ones like the photo Paul posted the style of original dealer fobs? I have a club sourced Spitfire one from 30 years ago still looking like new, and what must then be an original Herald one that will go back into service next year that could be 53 years old.

Most authentic would be the original dealer keyfob. Probably printed with their name. Not sure if the current black leather fob with a circular logo on it are reproductions of originals ones. There are also ones with model names on them, I have a very old Herald that one somewhere.

I think it was more than 100bhp from the LeMans engines, and they were much lighter than a Spitfire.

Sounds like it needs a rebus kit first

It may be a combination of faulty cylinders, sticky calipers, glazed discs or pads, crap pad quality, so many things can easily be wrong. Inwould ask Dale to get the standard brakes working as they should. I had major issues with my Herald Estate, that had a set of new pads and discs fitted to it that I recovered from a scrap car ( think they had been fitted to try to get it through an MOT) both feet on the pedal and bending the steering wheel with the effort would not make it slow down. a new set of pads and discs got them much better. I suspect that trundling round town may not be ideal for Mintex 1144, the year may glaze, I get a similar issue on my Spitfire that's is fitted with Princess Calipers, when I sense the brakes getting a bit "weak" some heavy braking is in order to get them back up to scratch. Really ought to try some different pads.