thescrapman
-
Posts
1,815 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
15
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Everything posted by thescrapman
-
To Polybush or not to Polybush
thescrapman replied to MJH2454's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Chris used to get his bushes made in Australia, now they ate UK manufactured. And they were always blue for the standard ones. red for the harder (What I fitted to the radius arms on the 2000's) perhaps that is what has changed. -
One thing to remember is that silicone fluid floats on water, which means that any moisture that does get in the system sits at the bottom of calipers and cylinders. whe bleeding remove the calipers and invert them, then a couple of pumps will remove the water.
-
I have always blown my lines out with an airline. you ought to fitnnew seals to front and rear brakes at same time,
-
I think you are mixing 2 numbers up. taxing in 1 way needs the 16 digit number on the reminder, other way uses the 11 digit on the V5c. ISTRvif you have the reminder you can't use the other method?
-
Not quite right. I thought the same, just take diff out and it will be fine. arear wheels tuck right under arches and tyres jam against the dampers. Bother I thought. Solved issue by jacking back up, putting a loop of wire down through the 2 inner seat belt mount holes which line up exactly with the quill extension. pull tight round ex,tension and suspension sorts itself out.
-
The BMH sills have the issue as well now. Suspect they are using the tooling that was used for the pattern panels in the past rather than their original tooling. Was it Steelcraft? They are owned by BMH whatever.
-
You have to put stands under the sills, subframes wont move enough if there is any support under them. other way is to unbolt whole rear suspension and lift body up leaving subframe and diff on floor.
-
I don't think there would ever be a cheap good Stag engine, the 2 words just don't go together. A quality rebuild Is going to be about £3k I would have thought.
-
I was told once that the driveshaft UJ should be tight enough to allow the driveshaft to stand up on end make sure it doesn't end up floppy
-
It is on top of one of the rear mounts, just needs to be loose, if stuck the casing pressurises and forces oil out. you can see it removing one of the rear wheels, would need to look at a diff to see which one it is
-
I encountered the vacuum in tank problem with a mates PI saloon that I was getting running better for him. it had a locking fuel cap that did not fit very well, so I swapped it for an original one. I drive about 1000 miles in it. No issues. He took over the testing and it broke down twice in 60 miles. Seems his right foot was much heavier than mine!! unbeknown to us a previous owner had fitted a non-PI tank and used the breather connection for the PRV return.
-
Big difference between a Spitfire 4 and a Mk4 in prices.
-
Have you checked your Jigge pin before assuming the seal had gone?
-
There is a Suffolk meet Tuesday, I won't be there but Russell and hopefully plenty of the other will be. take a tape measure and hopefully a couple of Spitfire will turn up. Think of as if the sill was not pushed far enough into the tooling so the top is too short and the curved bit is not curved enough.
-
First problem is because the sill is the wrong shape, most are like that now apparently, yiu need to cut along the top and pull it out slightly and fill the gap. second problem is also because the sill is the wrong shape. They are too short, so you have to cut the back of the top section and move it back slightly.
-
I have an ice cream tub with a small selection of PI spares that moves between the injected cars. injectors, PRV, set of MU seals, one way valves. Another small pot with a spare electronic ignition and original points and condensor. Spare wheel nut.
-
It has been tightened as much as possible just to be on safe side. Sadly it fractured the cast fork I reckon.
-
I just read it that he is trying to do a very cheap job and so won't pay for a rebore or regrind, intending to get away with just fitting new rings and bearings as he has a STD set of both. he mentioned resleeving as a way of using STD pistons as they tend to be much cheaper if picked up NOS as no-one wants them usually.
-
If air is appearing it is coming from somewhere, and I would have thought fuel at 105psi would come out of any leak rather than air sucked in, so it could possibly be getting in on low pressure side of pump? worth fitting a new one-way banjo valve, or swap 2 and 5 over and see if it moves, just in case
-
If dismantling do not lose the camber shims. Note where they came from.
-
Have you asked your local friendly MOT garage to put your car on the brake tester? TR6 hand brakes are not great, couple of people I know have swapped the self-adjusting ones for a set of Mk1 2000 rear brakes. fixed pistons and manual adjusters.
-
Steering column upper clamp, lower half
thescrapman replied to Jeffds1360's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Don't forget things are also different if you have a steering lock. -
2000 calliper bolts seem to do that spinny thing, it is to do with the backplate and corrosion on the bolts.. use a smaller spanner as a lever behind bolt head whilst turning the bolt. Will pop straight out.
-
Full length wood in rear is normally a Park Royal part, not a factory part.
-
I paid £250 for a reconditioned single rail one. That's was this year. I also paid £100 for 2 3-rail 1850 boxes, but that was 30 years ago.
