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Rabbit

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  1. Colin, these are available on Ebay in brass. Postage should be about £1 as they will go in an envelope small. Got these on my Spitfire III.
  2. Probably my misunderstanding! At least you were happy with Club service.
  3. I am a tad mystified by your letter. If from the club they would be left and right from same supplier, not one from Rimmers and one from J Paddock. Or are we talking about 2 different sets of calipers. I have had several sets reconditioned via TSSC and have always been happy with the results, including one set of 4 pots from Princess.
  4. I have been reclaiming (?) brake calipers for the past 40 years. I was told NOT to split calipers but as someone had done just that in the past, why could I not do it. No information on the torque was ever found so I kept to 80ft lb and a new rubber seal every time. I NEVER has one leak in all that time. Seals were, and are available from MOSS, these are the correct square section ones and are quite reasonably priced. The only reason I chose 80 ft lb was because that was what the first one I did was set at. Critics will tell me I was doing wrong, well, tell me the right way then.
  5. Thanks for that. I did think I was OK. My LEDs are quite expensive ones with a very good dip. £95 the pair if I remember rightly. Don't know why my post appeared twice!
  6. I have been reading all the new regulations (MoTs) regarding fitting LED headlamps to our cars. Mine is a 1968 Spitfire III. It does seem to state that cars prior to about 1980 can have them as long as they conform to the correct dipping and headlamp pattern. Some letters on here state categorically NO as they have not got an E mark etc. I had these same headlamps fitted to my 13/60 and was NEVER flashed for 'blinding' oncoming vehicles and passed 3 MoTs with them with NO queries. Your views on this would be appreciated.
  7. The ones supplied by YOUR club have the spacers in them. 01858434424.
  8. I have known Mark and Jo for a number of years although not continuously. This is indeed a very sad occasion. Both have been through a hell of a lot. My condolences to Mark.
  9. Nonmember, Cambridge.(?) Please ring Angie at Club and give her your details plus address and phone number and membership number and I will contact you. They are free to a club member.
  10. I bought a set of these hub caps for my Spitfire MkIII. 4 years ago. Unfortunately illness took over and it was not until last year that I managed to get back on the car. Anyway, sprayed wheels etc, went to fit hub caps and they are much to tight on the wheels. You need a long crowbar to actually lever them off the lugs and even then they will disappear with a huge 'bang'. Chrome appears good but too damned tight. The correct hub cap remover stands NO chance to remove them. Mine were around £100 but, no receipt so I doubt if I could return them. I anyone want them, they are FREE to a good home plus postage. I am in Northants.
  11. I have a servo fitted to my MkIII Spitfire. The height must be taken into account to fit on the bulkhead. I bought a complete one from a Mini company that measures 7-1/4 inches. A previous one was 8.5 and too tall too fit. My Spitfire stopped OK but the feel, with servo, is more reassuring. Also it has 4 pots on front, once again, probably not needed but it stops more like my modern than it used too. Sorry, purists, but I like the brakes more now.
  12. Pete is right about drilling. The bolt must be tight but my thought was that if the grease came through onto the nylon bushes, then they would be a lot easier to remove as usually the bolt rusts up and grips the top hats and makes it nigh on impossible to just push or drift the bolt out. I regularly (yearly) remove bolt, clean any rust off surface, re-grease and replace, all part of running an older car. I HAVE, in the past, had great fun removing a reticent bolt!
  13. Way back in the mid 50s, my James Cadet motor cycle rear swing arm was 'similar'? to this set yup. It seized up. My journeyman (I was an apprentice. dismantled it, cursed with comments like crap design etc, took it to his workshop, drilled down from both ends and then cross drilled into the drill hole, fitted grease nipples each end and re-assembled after filling with grease. Pump some in every few months 'boy' and it will never seize again. If you ever see TRP849 (I think) check the swing arm. Just a thought for trunnion bolts?
  14. I bought a RWD 67k Dolomite 1500TC. Steering was SO heavy it was a pig to drive and as to parking . . . . . Anyway, checked pressures and correct to book at 24lb I think. Anyway put them up to 30 and the difference was amazing, not to much harder but a lot easier to park. Still heavy at parking but acceptable. A small amount of play in the bottom steering joint made the steering unpleasant (steering all the while), so replaced and now excellent. There was very little visible play in the joint but when moving the weight of the car made it very noticeable. Once again, new one fitted and steering now superb. It still rolls on bends and corners so next job . . . . . . . well, you all know how it goes!
  15. I think that the idea of the steel S shaped bracket connected to a clamp around the exhaust, is to stiffen the pipe from the inlet manifold where there are 2 or 3 studs depending on vehicle. The idea of the flexible one is good but might allow the pipe to flex on starting and eventually the manifold LOWER round gasket to fail? The whole system i s normally flexible towards the rear of the car but, as stated here it would work ok. Just my opinion I might add.
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