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  1. Since I started to put UJs together using a 2oz ball pein hammer to gently TAP them in (approx 50 taps) I have never lost one or had them tip over. A vice to remove them, yes. Then clean out where UJ goes and hold the cross piece in, locate cap, and gently tap, keeping upright. My article was, I think, removed, for what reason I do no know. Never mind! A swivel vice is useful as well as it can hold the heavy end (if drive shafts on the bench and leave both hands free. Any way, that is the way I do it. Best of luck all!
  2. I have been fitting UJs for it seems, years on and off. Occasionally, as we all know, the needle bearings fall over and then the cap has to be removed etc. Anyway, recently I tried a new method which, undoubtedly a lot of your good selves use, but if so, ignore this! I remove all the caps, clean up the surfaces of all four points where the caps go. Then, using a 2oz ball pein hammer and holding the 'spider' in the cap which is located, obviously, in the entry hole, gently tap it about 40 times, working around the perimeter of the cap (can vary) making sure it is SQUARE to the hole. By keeping the 'spider' up to the cap, this prevents the needle rollers from falling over. When flat with flange, tap it carefully further in until circlip can be inserted. Then repeat on other side then the 2 remaining caps. I have used this method quite a few times now and found it 100% easier than trying to squeeze them in with a vice etc. Hopefully someone will use this method.
  3. Colin, these are available on Ebay in brass. Postage should be about £1 as they will go in an envelope small. Got these on my Spitfire III.
  4. Probably my misunderstanding! At least you were happy with Club service.
  5. I am a tad mystified by your letter. If from the club they would be left and right from same supplier, not one from Rimmers and one from J Paddock. Or are we talking about 2 different sets of calipers. I have had several sets reconditioned via TSSC and have always been happy with the results, including one set of 4 pots from Princess.
  6. I have been reclaiming (?) brake calipers for the past 40 years. I was told NOT to split calipers but as someone had done just that in the past, why could I not do it. No information on the torque was ever found so I kept to 80ft lb and a new rubber seal every time. I NEVER has one leak in all that time. Seals were, and are available from MOSS, these are the correct square section ones and are quite reasonably priced. The only reason I chose 80 ft lb was because that was what the first one I did was set at. Critics will tell me I was doing wrong, well, tell me the right way then.
  7. Thanks for that. I did think I was OK. My LEDs are quite expensive ones with a very good dip. £95 the pair if I remember rightly. Don't know why my post appeared twice!
  8. I have been reading all the new regulations (MoTs) regarding fitting LED headlamps to our cars. Mine is a 1968 Spitfire III. It does seem to state that cars prior to about 1980 can have them as long as they conform to the correct dipping and headlamp pattern. Some letters on here state categorically NO as they have not got an E mark etc. I had these same headlamps fitted to my 13/60 and was NEVER flashed for 'blinding' oncoming vehicles and passed 3 MoTs with them with NO queries. Your views on this would be appreciated.
  9. The ones supplied by YOUR club have the spacers in them. 01858434424.
  10. I have known Mark and Jo for a number of years although not continuously. This is indeed a very sad occasion. Both have been through a hell of a lot. My condolences to Mark.
  11. Nonmember, Cambridge.(?) Please ring Angie at Club and give her your details plus address and phone number and membership number and I will contact you. They are free to a club member.
  12. I bought a set of these hub caps for my Spitfire MkIII. 4 years ago. Unfortunately illness took over and it was not until last year that I managed to get back on the car. Anyway, sprayed wheels etc, went to fit hub caps and they are much to tight on the wheels. You need a long crowbar to actually lever them off the lugs and even then they will disappear with a huge 'bang'. Chrome appears good but too damned tight. The correct hub cap remover stands NO chance to remove them. Mine were around £100 but, no receipt so I doubt if I could return them. I anyone want them, they are FREE to a good home plus postage. I am in Northants.
  13. I have a servo fitted to my MkIII Spitfire. The height must be taken into account to fit on the bulkhead. I bought a complete one from a Mini company that measures 7-1/4 inches. A previous one was 8.5 and too tall too fit. My Spitfire stopped OK but the feel, with servo, is more reassuring. Also it has 4 pots on front, once again, probably not needed but it stops more like my modern than it used too. Sorry, purists, but I like the brakes more now.
  14. Pete is right about drilling. The bolt must be tight but my thought was that if the grease came through onto the nylon bushes, then they would be a lot easier to remove as usually the bolt rusts up and grips the top hats and makes it nigh on impossible to just push or drift the bolt out. I regularly (yearly) remove bolt, clean any rust off surface, re-grease and replace, all part of running an older car. I HAVE, in the past, had great fun removing a reticent bolt!
  15. Way back in the mid 50s, my James Cadet motor cycle rear swing arm was 'similar'? to this set yup. It seized up. My journeyman (I was an apprentice. dismantled it, cursed with comments like crap design etc, took it to his workshop, drilled down from both ends and then cross drilled into the drill hole, fitted grease nipples each end and re-assembled after filling with grease. Pump some in every few months 'boy' and it will never seize again. If you ever see TRP849 (I think) check the swing arm. Just a thought for trunnion bolts?
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