Stewart Vacher

Or the tacho needs recallibrating!😉

Thought his diagram might help Stewart

Like Paul I bought a Delco one for well under £100 last year. My GT6 has never run so well. Stewart

If you look at the Stag section of this month Courier, Phil Willson has an artical concerning Seat Webbing Straps which might be of help to you> I did mine a few years back, it was a fiddle getting the tension correct but the end result was fine. Stewart

Not sure if it was an extra , I thought it must have come with the roof. I find mine in my GT6 very useful. moving it up and down I can control the amount or air entering the car, thus at speed reducing the buffeting and also the wind noise level.

Thanks to all for your responses. As you say Pete 'Horses for Courses'. Being a bit on the 'Tight' side, I think I will go down the ebay/Accuspark route and see how I get on. I can always revert to the old one if I get any problems. I'll let you know if I get any issues. Stewart

Hi Guys, I'm looking for some advice on replacing the worn distributor on my GT6 Mk3 with a new/refurbished electronic one. I have seen a couple of option on ebay that come with the cable tachometer drive I need. These have either a Powespark or Accuspark electronic ignition. Does anyone have any experience with these system? I have also considered he option of having my original distributor refurbished through the club shop, but this has both time and cost drawbacks. Any advice would greatly appreciated. Stewart

Hi Kevin, I had problems with my GT6 speedo earlier this year (extremely noisy before the needle flew off). I looked on the web for a secondhand unit only to find that they we I felt very expensive. When I asked for advice on this forum I was told that I also needed to make sure it had the right calibration number to match my overdrive and rear axial ratio. Pete Lewis was very helpful and gave me the details of a firm that would recondition my existing unit. The firm is Speedy Cables (Email: sales@speedycables.com) Tel:01639 73200. I rang them and they gave me a quote inclusive of return delivery and an estimate of 4-5 weeks turnaround. They did a great job within the timescale. It was a bit more expensive than some secondhand ones I saw but looks and functions like new and I feel was well worth the money.

Yes it does have the old style voltage regulator so I may well take the opportunity to upgrade it. I've got plenty of time to think about it because I sent the speedo to be refurbished today and was told it would be 5 to 6 weeks before I get it back.

Hi Gully, I was lucky as far as getting it out in that I found it only had one of the two original clamping nuts in place. This makes me think a previous owner must have removed the speedo sometime in the past and maybe because it was so difficult to fit didn't refit it. I think I might have to remove the centre dash panel when I replace it as I want to fix it properly. The one that was fitted was nearest the steering column and just about accessible from underneath once I had disconnected the footwell heater supply hose. Yes I think that I might be wise to have a plaster or two ready as Pete suggests when I get that far! Stewart

Thank you guys, I knew I could count on someone on the Forum to give me some good advice. Now I am a lot wiser on the relevance of the code numbers, and reading the repair article have a better handle on how it works. I removed the speedo last night and had a good look at the mechanism. It appears to me that there is so much play in the spindle that the magnetic wheel is scrapping the drag cup, which is causing the problem. Although normally I would have a go at fixing most things on this occasion I think I will leave it to the experts to fix and calibrate as I might end up 'Fixing it so nobody else can'. To that end I have asked speedycables to give me an estimate to refurbish. If that comes out to be too costly I will again try to search out a secondhand one, this time knowing a little more what serial number to look for. Stewart

Not sure that this is the right place to post this question but could not see it fitting in the other headings so here goes: When taking part in last weekends New Forest run my speedometer started intermittently to make some awful whirring noises. It sounded like a worn out food mixer. The mileometer and tripometer stopped incrementing during the noisy periods. It didn't get any better when I tried to investigate and the front rim and glass fell out . This only increased the decibels to a headache inducing level. All the time the noise was going on the needle was going mad spinning around and around until it finally flew off!!! As a result I am now scouring the internet for a replacement, which brings me to my question. All the speedometers I can find quote what appears to be serial numbers similar to those on the front of the dial on mine but not exactly the same. Does anyone know what the significance of these numbers is? Mine reads :- SN-6203/42A 1152 Most of the speedometer I have found quote SN-6203 but the other numbers vary. As these appear to be quite expensive items I obviously don't want to end up with the wrong one. Also does anyone have any advice where I might get a good reasonably priced replacement? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Stewart

Just a quick update guys. Tried lubrication on the spindles and adjusting the z clamps but nothing changed. Then replaced the cable with a new one and all now seems OK. Yesterday I enjoyed a 60 mile trip around the New Forest organised by the Wessex Group for their 'Drive it Day' (Extremely well run as in previous years). Not a sign of the problem throughout, so one happy member again . Thanks again for your advice. Stewart

Hi Elliot, I had an Ashley hardtop on my Spitfire back in the late 70's and used it in the winter to keep the water out but went back to the rag top in the summer. Personally I think it look really sporty and I was always getting attention from people wanting to know what car it was. There are still a few around that I have spotted at Triumph events. Suzie Singleton did an article in The Courier a year or two ago about a variety of different hardtop fitted to spitfires which included the 'Ashley' and had some pictures plus the firms sales advert for the top. Pete was right about small brackets that fitted on the B post, these should be fairly easy to knock up. But more importantly from your pictures you appear to be missing the parcel shelf. This was made of fibreglass and had a built in pipe taking the petrol from the hardtop side filler to the original filler in the centre of the body above the boot area. This was always a bit of a problem as the 'fall' on the pipe was very slight resulting in a very slow filling up. Also you had to make sure the car was not sloping towards the filler side, or it wouldn't fill at all! I believe the company moved the position to the centre of the top below the back window on later versions. Hope this of some help. Regards Stewart

Thank you Pete and Paul for you ideas. I Will start by trying the spindle grease option. My linkage has, I think, the z shaped clamps you discribe and I will try to see that they are not over stretched and still have room to expand when warmed up. Hopefully I will get a chance to fiddle tomorrow and will let you know how I get on. Cheers Stewart

Took my GT6 Mk 3 out for it's first run of the year on Sunday all went fine until up to normal engine temperature when the linkage from the accelerator pedal to the carburetors became tight making pulling away and accelerating jerky. On reaching my destination I lifted the bonnet and checked the linkage but couldn't find anything amiss. Coming back to the car a couple of hours later when it had cooled down ready for the homeward journey it was back to normal, but on reaching normal running temperature the fault returned. I have checked the pedal and the cable and both move freely. My feeling it it must be something to do with the carburetor linkage or butterfly spindles. Has anyone got any ideas on what it might be and how to fix it? Any advice that stops me kangarooing down the road would be appreciated. Regards Stewart

Hi Euan Unless a previous owner has altered the wiring the interior light switch on the left hand side of the dashboard should operate both the below dash and roof lights. Does your roof light come on when you open the doors? It should do. Suggest you check the bulb and wiring. However I do believe that there might be a mercury switch located within the tailgate which activates the light when it is in the raised position. Hope this helps Stewart

Thanks Darren and Clive, that's very useful info. I will get one fitted ASAP. Regards Stewart

Thanks Richard, that just the information I was looking for. (Although your dashboard looks great I'm glad I don't have as many gauges as I would need a bank loan to change them all to LED's) Regards Stewart

When driving my GT6 Mk3 at night I have difficulty in reading the instruments due to very low illumination levels on the dials, although all the bulbs seem to be functioning correctly. Can anyone please advise me if it is possible to up the wattage of the bulbs, or change to a different style, maybe an LED equivalent and if so where to obtain such items? Stewart

For the third time in as many years my GT6 Mk3's indicator flasher relay has given up the ghost. I have had a look on ebay to try and find an electronic replacement, but many of those on offer seem to be linked with LED lights. Has anyone got any recommends for a solid state version that drives conventional bulbs? Thanks Stewart