Ian Faulds

Hi Peter I reckon Canley and rimmer prob comes from same supplier not sure German one. Alloys can be porous as the oil filter canister adaptor ha been known to weep oil through porous body. I think the cheaper the ally used is more porous.

hi, wonder if anyone can help by sending me a dimensioned sketch of these brackets, I`m missing them from my car and need to make them up but I don't know dimensions. thanks in advanc

hi had a result with the paint from these guys advance paints.co.uk . id sent a message and they come back they can mix me a brushable paint had to give triumph code . so if your stuck give them a try. ive no links to the company.

Body tubs been on rotisserie for a week. What a brilliant thing. All body tub welding fin today. It's a joy to use just spin the body any position fantastic would recommend anyone rebuilding a triumph to use one. My next job is to paint the underside and the inside floors etc.

thanks chaps, ive sent an email to advanced paints, they list a triumph pimento red and ive asked if they can do a brushable, I don't have spray equipment but for the inside brush will do. the tub on this car must be from another as base paint is magenta, its now a horrible silver, but the original body should be pimento, chasis and engine numbers are original but I reckon its been re bodied at some time.

Hi all. My gt6 is originally meant to be pimento it's a 72. I've completed the tub welding today and while it's on the rotisserie iam gonna stone chip the underside and paint new floor pans inside. Anyone know a brush paint near pimento colour? That I could use for this.

That's great nick thanks for the pics. Ill use them for reference.

Thanks again Colin that's cleared it up

Thanks Colin, Petrol tank bracket eh!. Yeah makes sense so that will be the one with the 1/4 unf captive nut in it. So won't be one on the other side. I've just made one too ha ha. Wonder what the top brackets for? Think it's also on other side as there's the remains of one on the arch on the drivers side.

Hi. I'm repairing my inner wheel arches at the moment. There are 2 brackets on the passenger side inner arch see pic. The other side there's nothing been cut off during an old repair I think. Anyway question is should both those brackets also be on the other side but handed? And what are they for? Note pic is not my car. Its for info only.

im at the stage now where I needed to roll the car over, I decided to make a rotisserie, I got the idea from john bonnet on here a while a go and when I was at work I got a bits of old box section from scrap and stored it away, I came in lucky as my neighbour had an old engine stand that had been sitting out the back of his garage for 10 years, he said I could have it so I retrieved it freed it all off and had to weld a new bottom into it as had rotted out. anyway sorted it so bought another at £38 . this was smaller in size but as I had to make them both taller for clearance it made no difference, I made both engine stands 940mm from floor to centre. I extended the feet out to steady it then set to making the frames. again all was made from scrap metal, some scrap box section and an old gate I found while walking the dogs,. I worked out (guessed) where the centre of gravity was and I marked it front and rear of the car. the front frame I picked up on the bulkhead to chassis mounts and built the frame accordingly, the rear I picked up from the tie rod mounts and the bumper bar brackets and tied them both together with a length of box. the mounting frame was then built as the front. all the frames were welded and bolted together but they can come apart for easy storage. a few pics and a video at the end. to mount the car on the rotisserie I used three trolley jacks in a triangle set up, one at the back jacking on the frame with big sections of wood on the jack, and one at each corner at the front, I jacked it up slightly enough to remove the workmates it stood on and slowly lowered the jacks 1 inch at a time until the engine mounts slid on to the frames. was easy. so for another low cost outlay a simple and effective way to roll the car it goes right round 360 degrees and the new engine mount has a pin which fits into pre drilled holes and you can position the car at different angles. VID-20200601-WA0000 (3).mp4

I wreckon you could Adrian but you'd have to have brace it to the bench plus you could use a compression spring to return the foot pedal somehow. Be more awkward. I understand the space thing. I used to have just a single small garage. This garage is much bigger but I'm still going to build another shed behind it when lock downs over.

Closing this I forgot to say all the bolts I used were 10mm cap heads which are high tensile steel.

Hi John the original handle was about 300mm long I didn't use it as I had another 16mm dia bar which saved cutting the proper handle. I put a bolt behind the handle to act as a stop you can see it in the pics. But when you have material between the Jaws it never bottoms out anyway. Believe me you need the foot force to shrink and stretch the steel to do it using the handle you would need to be popeye. And it is so difficult to hold in one hand while operating the handle. They sell these with foot stands or you can buy them separate but their expensive and I enjoyed the little project

The shrinker threads finished let's enjoy the drift.

freshly painted, quite proud of it.

foot rod pic 1 and cross link 2

forgot to say the shrinker base is offset so that the cross link clears the main stand, I had to do this otherwise the foot operating bar would need to go through the centre of the main body box. it works fine.

note in the third pic the 10 mm nut is for a bolt which acts as a stop for the jaws. and last pic shows dimple for grub screw

hi graham here are some more images and a sketch with sizes, I hope you can understand it ok, any questions just ask. I only bought the one body so have to change shrinker to stretcher but it was cheaper. if I had a twin bodies I would have made it differently.

hi, ive already done my sills and floorpans but on fitting the doors I think the sills are bit to high, I intend to take them off again when I put the body back on the chasis, with this experience I wouldn't fit the sills without the doors and bonnet on for gap ref. when you've clamped the sills up and are happy, then remove doors and bonnet if nec

Thanks Graham yeah too much time but I'm lovin it. Don't get so much time outa lock down. I made it up as I went so no drawing. It was made from what I had. Ie. The footplate is 2 pieces welded together which were offcuts from the cross link. I'll jot some sizes down tomorrow for ya.

The main body was an old bike stand never used. The foot pedal rod I made from a volvo v70 engine brace I'd made years ago. The spring is a return spring from a very old trolley jack not in use. The main cross link I don't know its been in the garage for years. I didn't use the nice handle that came with the shrinker. I just used a piece of rusty 16mm bar again from the bike stand. Have an old tin of red paint that's goin on tomorrow.

I had wanted a shrinker stretcher for ages , finally bought a deep throat one albeit only with one body to keep costs down. I had`nt any experience of these and although you can mount it in a vice, its pretty hard to operate with one hand and you cant get much pressure with the short handle, I decided to make a foot operated stand, its all from scrap I had lying around, works brilliant and cost nowt. ill paint it tomorrow.

I don't like to see damaged tools being thrown out, I found these two pair of old mole grips in a skip before the shutdown, one set the jaws were knackered the other absolutely rusted and broken spring, id put them in the garage and forgotten about them. I needed some extra welding clamps so I renewed the spring with similar I found lurking about the garage, de rusted all and modified the jaws from an old caravan hitch clamp. their back in service now.