daverclasper
-
Posts
2,574 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by daverclasper
-
-
Welcome and a lovely example of my favorite GT6 model
-
4 hours ago, johny said:
I keep a handy sheet of EDPM rubber from which I cut all sorts of seals and gaskets including for fuel pumps, petrol tank senders, petrol caps etc
Not saying the info is correct, though the websites I've just looked are saying EDPM is poor against petrol?
-
21 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
a very nice-looking volt meter for the Vitesse.
Didn't know you had a Vitesse, or is that what you call the Vit bonneted Herald?
Very nice work on the gauge, love that sort of low cost/more time, resto stuff
-
On 16/11/2022 at 11:12, Pdv said:
and there is not any tub spread as the points to measure are 45 inches
Good luck with it Steve
Which are the points that need to measure 45" please
Dave
-
Air filters and their gaskets are all fitted with the cut out at the top?
-
Thanks Pete. Your reply came in when I was typing.
It took me about 5 seconds when I realised how to do it.
My bloody memory
-
Thanks Guys, excellent.
That rang a bell, about that locking tab. I overlooked it when I glanced at manual
-
I've done this job a few times easily (including once before on this original Girling).
I'm pushing the distance piece down to release spring tension, though can't manipulate the end of the valve spindle into the right position of the keyhole, so it releases?.
Any idea what I'm doing wrong please.
Thanks Dave
-
8 hours ago, johny said:
In fact packing roller bearings with grease can be a bad thing as it gets churned and if trapped generates heat...
Thanks folks. I never overpack the fronts with grease, though use the grease gun on the rears every couple of years, though only do about 1500 miles a year.
It normally takes a good few pumps before grease (which looks like the older, as I have alternated between the black and brown, not on purpose, just what was there at the time!) comes out of inner side of hub (so guess it must lose some, though no obvious evidence of this, as not sprayed around anywhere visable?).
So maybe overdoing it, though no way of knowing, and probably overthinking it (as usual).
Thanks
-
29 minutes ago, JumpingFrog said:
Most shafts you buy will be from cars that were dismantled when they reached the end of their mechanical life in the late 80s (bottom of the value curve?), so it makes sense to me most used shafts are in such a condition.
Thanks, and neglected with servicing as well often, I assume (front trunnions breaking after 10 years, etc).
Saying that, if the bearings you've found to be ok, does the shaft wear, regardless of regular greasing?
-
On 08/11/2022 at 09:22, JumpingFrog said:
I've taken something like 10 of these apart, all removed from scrap Heralds in the late 80s. I think out of 10 I got 2 usable shafts. None of the assemblies had failed bearings, but on all of the 8 scrap shafts the needle roller bearing had eaten into the shaft.
Wow. Did the hubs turn smoothly with the shafts off the car, and suggest they were ok?
Also, it does make you wonder if they may do a fair few miles with some wear on shafts?
Dave
-
9 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
as with any cable drives the inner must engage the right amount not too short not too long for all to work well and less flicky needled
Mine flicky (intermittently) at idle only. Any idea if outer cable needs shortening, or lengthening?.
I did lube it ages ago, though, that made no difference
-
On 06/11/2022 at 09:33, dougbgt6 said:
Hi Dave, the original batch was 7, you had 2 and Mark at East Berks had 2 leaving 3. As the pair in my GT6 are 30 years old I'd really like to hang on to the remaining ones. Sorry!
No problem at all Doug. Seems they last anyway!. I'm sure I could use a pucture repair patch, etc, in a situation
-
12 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
I thought I sold you some 150 diaphragms at the Twiddle Day before last? They should last longer than this, I still have some from that batch I haven't need to use.
You certainly did Doug and there still holding up admirably, thanks.
Because I'm a bit paranoid anyway and do longish distance touring holidays in car, any breakdown that can't be fixed at the side of the road, would be a right downer.
So, I though it could be a good idea to slip them in to my shoe box of small bits that could fail, that I put in the the boot for these trips.
Would like to buy another pair off you please, if possible?.
Unless, anyone else needs them more urgently?,
Thanks
-
Hi. Does anyone know of any any areas/sections of body/chassis worth doing please.
Ta
-
Hi. A good few NOS for 175's on ebay at the moment, at a good price. Researching the part no's, they are different to CD 150, with a few saying the the same?.
Wondered if the main body size is the same, (which incorporates the diaphragm) on the different carbs , even if the the 175 throat is larger?
I need them for CD 150
thanks
-
Thanks all, for info on fitting bearing to shaft, most enlightening.
-
I guess to refit a bearing on a shaft, it's hitting the top of a strong section of tubing, that's in contact with just the inner race, inner shell, if that makes sense?
-
On 28/10/2022 at 19:16, Pete Lewis said:
i doubt Dave drives hard enough to vapourise moisture laden fluid
You know me Pete (though when you overtook me on the M way going to Twiddle Day and doing a disgracefully slow speed of about 50mph, I was a bit lost and trying to look at road atlas while driving, I would have been powering along at 60 otherwise).
Yes, best to change seals.
The thing that made me think there maybe ok (and maybe just debris behind the small seal), was that the pressure was lost while stationary (rather than harder braking) and didn't lose pressure again when I tried the next day, even when braking hard (though not at fast speed). Though I don't enough about this, for example, does that seal have to hold a lot of pressure (out of interest)?
Thanks for input.
-
1 hour ago, AlanT said:
What’s become apparent is that bearings that have sat for 20 years quickly fail when returned to service.
Wonder what the reason for that is?. I can't think of anything obvious?
-
Also, the repro's of the originals appear to often give problems?. info on previous threads here, about better alternatives
-
Had a loss of pressure, partial and straight down to the floor. Would build pressure back easily with one or two pumps, though lose pressure again moments later.
Thought it likely the small seal at rear of Master cylinder chamber had failed.
Obviously stopped using car. Next day I tried it and seemed fine, went for a couple of slow drives around the block, using the brakes a lot, though stopping at times for a bit as well, to see if they lost pressure.
Appears to be no loss of fluid. Thinking maybe seal hasn't failed, though maybe a bit of crud behind it at the time?.
Seals have been in there about 8 years (reluctant to change, as a matter of course, due to likely repro crap) and changed fluid 3 times in that period, (last time maybe 3 years ago).
So, if it is a bit of crud, maybe clean out Master Cylinder?, or any other advice would be great please.
Thanks, Dave
-
On 20/10/2022 at 19:38, NonMember said:
No, it's usually fine. This is partly because the summer setting is normally slightly rich, and the engines are quite tolerant. It's more important to get it right for emissions reasons. Also, in winter, the engine probably doesn't get as hot, and most of the "weak mixture" problems are caused when things get hot.
Thanks, Great, as difficult to get this sort of info (even though, it's sort of basic)
-
23 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
and added some LED
Pete. Your getting into go faster, must have's! 😊
Setting ignition timing
in Engine
Posted
Hi. I have a dizzy with the Vernier adjustment gauge. At the moment the timing is set up pretty accurate I think, though is on it's maximum retard adjustment on the Vernier adjustment wheel.
Thinking it would be an idea to have the the timing set correct, with the Vernier wheel in about the middle of its range, so allowing any further, easier, finer adjustment.
So thinking, if I set up a bulb to do it statically and when the points open for any cylinder (whether on compression or exhaust stroke) and bulb lights, then advance on the Vernier to half way of the range, then retard, by moving the body of the dizzy until bulb lights.
Would this then give me pretty much my original timing setting.
Hope this makes sense?.
Dave ,