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daverclasper

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Posts posted by daverclasper

  1. 8 hours ago, clive said:

    Try diesel. leave it to soak for a decent amount of time. I would cover it with clingfilm or foil to help stop it drying out. Then a plastic scraper. 

    Does diesel dry out quickly, as is so oily?. I'm more wondering, if it would help to rejuvenate, old dry underseal (that can cause moisture traps).

    If it does stay oily, is that a safety issue regarding car fires?

     

  2. I rubbed down the badly painted, gloss paint on my rad and it exposed a couple of close together pin holes in the brass top chamber.

    Roughed up the area around it and used Araldite. Lasted a year or so. Then used JB Weld. That was 8 years ago and still ok

  3. Hi. No one a very pale grey, all the rest a biscuit colour.

    I think I read that Nick Jones once had this and it was the inlet manifold leaking a bit of water into the cylinder and cleaning the combustion chamber.

    Have just done 300 miles of mainly Motorway driving and no noticable loss of coolant with my car.

    Wondering if anyone had any ideas, seems a bit odd to me?.

    So, wondering if it is running weaker, will it cause harm?.

    Could it be too tight valve clearance on that cylinder (no idea myself)

    Worth trying a cooler plug (by quite a bit, if they are obtainable?.)

    Any ideas would be great.

    Thanks

     

     

  4. Just hoping Pete H, that's it's the PCV valve. Mine are the simplest Strom CD's. Not much to go out out of kilter generally, as far as I know?, especially as car is used regularly so parts are moving, also  lowi'sh miles, so less longer term  wear on components., Been dead reliable for years after a bit of simple, low cost work initially and getting to learn the in and outs (thanks to this club mainly)

    PS, I'm actually not by nature an, optimist!.

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. 2 hours ago, NonMember said:

    If it proves to be excessive then you're wasting your time trying to fix the problem any other way, so you'll just have to live with a bad clutch until such time as you can replace the thrust washers. 

    So some excessive end float (without the thrust washers actually dropping out and then damage to block/crank), where the crank is moving more than spec, is not harming the engine in any way?. Genuinely interested.

  6. The original diaphragm has a recess in the moulding that corresponds to the space between the valve body and the plate atop of the spring. I guess this aids diaphragm up and down movement without stressing/stretching the rubber too much and maybe works more effectively?.

    Anyone tried a flat 0.5mm thickness, flat piece of oil resistant rubber?.

    Wondering, as the current one only lasted a few years (usual crap rubber).

    Cheers 

  7. Well. Did some carb work, checked diaphragms, jet distance from bridge (0.1mm difference). needle bases flush with pistons.

    Ran it as had to use car anyway. Worse than ever, popping out of exhaust when the hunting/surging  revs dropping and on over run. Still accelerating cleanly with good power. 

    Clutching at straws, I wondered if it still could be the PCV valve arrangement (though had previously checked diaphram, and also replaced the hoses with better ones, as were flimsy and distorting under vacuum).

    Anyway, disconnected hose at rocker cover and clamped it. No hunting etc!.

    Had to increase idle slightly and idle slightly uneven (as was when I bought car and was breathing open into atmosphere.

    I never found any reference to PCV causing this issues, so has taking it out of the equation (though blanked off at rocker end it is still connected to manifold) the cause, or just taken away the symptoms of rich running (car has run way over rich before with out these particular symptoms).

    Does the orientation/position of the valve top plate (with the small breather hole make a difference, I cant see how?).

    Any checks to do on valve when off the car, eg, blowing, sucking, maybe while blocking inlet/outlet orifices etc?.

    Cheers and don't know where the red type came from?

     

     

     

  8. Hi. Just a general interest thing for me (not an accident waiting to happen this time Pete! 😊)

    On our commonly, cast iron engines is this ever likely to happen?, E.G.,  if the gasket not been replaced ever/for a long time, not prone to overheating, antifreeze maintained, etc.

    Actually, I probably don't mind a bit of reassurance, if appropriate 🙂

    Cheers 

     

    ast 

  9. 1 hour ago, NonMember said:

    My first Vitesse had one like that. The plastic handle broke so I fabricated a wooden one, which worked fine.

    Interesting. Would look posh if smooth and varnished I imagine. Or some appropriate painting to re create original?.

    Out of interest, as I would like to install a sunroof on 67 Vit (if I have the time and can find one at a good price?) though it needs to be age appropriate for me, which is I understand the wing nut style?. Is it possible to interchange the different 60's style handles/modify etc to accept the above does anyone know?

    The recessed handle, 70's sunroof, maybe a totally different arrangement to modify for earlier style?.

    Bit specialized this, but any advice great. 

    Thanks, Dave     

     

  10. 1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    For some reason it appears the solenoid has engaged and is refusing to go off again.

    My J type was engaging and disengaging randomly ,(even with solonoid disconnected),  would be after a while when driven from cold.

    Dave Twigger, O.D stuff,  in Rugby advised probable issues with solonoid and maybe pressure relief valve, O rings. (PRV valve O rings, very fiddly job) 

    Replaced O rings in both and was fine for about 8 years, car in regular use, though not high mileage.

    About a year a go had OD not disengaging after a bit of M way running.

    Went straight for solonoid. Not clicking when shaken. Cleaned out and replaced O rings (though seemed ok), whilst I was there.

    A bit above my head about how they work, just my personal experience.

    Oh, one other thing I read recently (not mentioned in my previous, extensive research, I don't think), there is apparently, a narrow oil channel/drilling?, in the righthand side of the solonoid housing, that can get easily get blocked with small bit of crud.

    Oh, Oh. I lubed the solonoid bottom piston thingy first time, though left dry this time, as I think the lube maybe got hot and dryed, out making it stick?. Who knows? 

     

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