daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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Thanks Ian. Will have a proper look. Will also check diaphrams, as I understand this causes over richness.
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Forgot to mention, if I rev at idle, at about 1500 revs, for 5 seconds or so, then it will clear the hunting for a while.
I will lean mixture, though just wondered if this was relevant?
Cheers
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Just a point to mention, I used water pump?, plumbers?, adjustable on the pivot, wide jaw, pliers on an ignition bevel, with a bit of cloth to protect the chrome.
I was maybe a bit heavy handed, though it squeezed the bevel out of round a bit and wouldn't do up. Managed to carefully squeeze it back to round though and just did it up hand tight (though is now gradually shifting clockwise, especially if another person uses car).
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Thanks. I tried to find the old post to re read it, though couldn't on my own profile, or a general search?.
Will definately try that, now you've reminded me.
It got overlooked, as when the weather cooled it was fine.
Cheers
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Hi. This issue began a bit back (no work on car around this time). It is heat soak I assume, as happens in slow moving/stopped traffic and also when re starting after maybe 15 mins or so. Will clear when the car stretches it's legs.
Car is not running too hot as such, temp gauge same as it's always been
It will hunt up to 2000 rpm, then drop off and repeat. Maybe not fuel vaporization, as does not fluff up/run rough as such?, as it has done in the past, though a little bit prone to stalling.
Home made carb shield fitted
I thought it was maybe the PCV hoses as were not old but not sturdy and maybe collapsing when hot. Have since addressed this and same issue.
Could it be air entering manifold somehow, after a lot of engine compartment heat?
Cheers, Dave
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52 minutes ago, clive said:
As a comparison, think of carb needles. You can get a decent idle with any needle, but once off idle it will be wrong.
- I've always wondered about this, with regard to the "lifting the piston" technique at idle for mixture. My needles/jets are fairly new, though a bit of play in shafts and maybe butterfly's not seating, as when new. I understand this extra air, is more relevant at idle and not significant at more open throttle, therefore I go off plug colour for finer mixture adjustments. Is this a good way for me?
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5 hours ago, Wagger said:
On a six cylinder engine, the starter ring wears in three places, but this is far less noticeable because the compression periods overlap. I have yet to have a 'Jam' on a six cylinder car.
Cheers Wagger, that's interesting
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4 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:
They aren't that expensive weighed against how long they are supposed to last and the fact that starters do have a tendency to give trouble on cold wet windy nights when you need to be somewhere else very quickly.
I think I have heard that "new ones" aren't always great?. Maybe more expensive to have it rebuilt by someone reputable, though worth it in the long run?
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2 hours ago, johny said:
You might want to consider going to a higher ratio diff (3.63) at a later date but even this has its down sides...
Interested in the downsides?. I understand it may be the strongest diff?
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Maybe?, if you really want it, could it not be kept under a cover until garage ready?. Just thinking, he may change his mind about selling it, get a better offer?.
Just what I'd do
Mr Cautious
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Looks the biz. Well done that man. Glad it worked out
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On 04/07/2022 at 16:46, Paul H said:
Just finished a sliding roof for my son’s MGB GT . Just got to cut the roof now 😱This roof will also fit the Hera
Looks the the one you bought off me Paul?. Hope it worked out well
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On 03/07/2022 at 17:41, daverclasper said:
Ta. I thought you had used that adjustable tie rod thingy, from the first photo.
Sorry Paul. Me getting confused. The tie rod thingy photo was Rogerguzzi's Spit
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Ta. I thought you had used that adjustable tie rod thingy, from the first photo.
Genuinely interested, as will go for that particular alternator and set up, if I go to the bright side
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6 minutes ago, Paul H said:
Yes the adjustable thingy is the original one from the Dynamo .
I've seen folk use those, though I think original is flat, though with a curved footprint, and corresponding cut out groove, to slide the dynamo for tensioning fan belt?
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Thanks Paul. so just two fastenings, that and the adjustable tension thingy you have?
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6 hours ago, Paul H said:
I found I didn’t need any brackets and the pulley is included . Not sure how your 13/60 compares to the Vitesse and pics are of the setup
Was that using the original C40 L dynamo mounting brackets on for the block, do you know Paul?. It looks like the tensioning one is a generic adjustable cable thingy?
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21 hours ago, paul fosh said:
had a look will order, do you know which type i need for the boot mark cheers paul
I think Baines sell boot seals for the Spitfire, wondered if these same profile for Herald/Vitesse?. If so, need to make sure its the right length, as they probably will cut to size.
If you find out any info would be grateful for sharing, as could do with one myself, (my Ebay one started to perish after about 2 years).
I did ask on here if anyone with both cars was able to compare profiles, though no response.
PS, Bill Davis (Rarebits for Classics) still has quality/correct door seals at reasonable price I understand, though I think maybe only advertises through a Face Book page. I bought some off him about 8 years ago and still ok.
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On 24/06/2022 at 21:03, Pete Lewis said:
there is also the possibility of over stroking the clutch
What is over stroking and why is it bad Pete, if easy to answer?
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I've just squirted some oil through the hole now and again. Not as good as grease I guess?.
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3 hours ago, Chris A said:
The only racing I do is to the toilet when I have a stomach bug!
Your doing well. I do find myself getting caught on the hop. Especially near a loo or home when it comes on massive for some phycological reason. Key fumbling in the front door, undoing my pants going up the stairs, still don't always quite make it.
Apologies for too much information (though maybe better than being anal?)
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I do use ramps with sections of scaff board for "non wheel off work". Bit less faff for me, and gives a good height for doing chassis maintenance, etc
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On 21/06/2022 at 13:43, Iain T said:
I had creaky polybush suspension, I oiled all the bushes took it for a spin and oiled 'em again and so far no creaks. By oil I mean liberally squirt oil on them!
So oil penetrated into the "bearing surfaces" of the fitted bushes?
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To seal under holes, Iv'e used a rolled up bit of thin card, with the finger of a rubber/ surgical glove over it.
Yes, I reckon Waxoyl, does hold water when it dries out, bit like a sponge.
13/60 randomly turning off or kicking back, high temps
in Engine
Posted
You can get a good idea of timing setting, by moving the dizzy with engine running at idle speed to the highest idle and backing of to slightly less, or doing a static test with a simple bulb (covered in most DIY car mechanic info and manuals). When running, for fine adjustment, then in a high gear at lower revs, accelerate and if pinking, retard the timing, until the pinking stops.