daverclasper

I must be even cheaper, still on the plastic one which was on the car when I bought it 10 years, 25000 miles ago. Its still clean though and carry a spare in the boot. Any need to change it yet.

Thanks Johny. So maybe, the same as trunnion check with a lever under the tyre?

Thanks Johny. Seems like it does it on smoothish surfaces as well. Must admit I forgot about the top ball joint, though I understand it's not possible to check this without removing it?

Hi. Trying to trace a fairly quiet knocking that may be from front nearside, I can only hear it at slow speed and is a bit more pronounced when doing right turns. on both sides, trunnions and their bushes appear ok, as does rack inner and outer ball joints and bushes at shock abs's top and bottom. No obvious play in wishbone bushes. Drop link bushes were on the car when I bought it 10 years ago and look shot, especially the nearside and appears to have some play when anti roll bar is levered with a crowbar against the bottom wishbone. I'm wondering if it's possible to disconnect just the end/s of anti roll bar to isolate this as being/or not, the cause? If so? would it be best to disconnect the bush at bar end, or the spherical thing attached to wishbone? It looks like their may be too much tension in the bar to free just the drop links anyway? Thanks

With my Vitesse, I seem to get some pinking developing, maybe after 700 miles ( maybe give or take a couple of 100 miles). Dont know why, though around 10 clicks on the vernier to retard it, seems to cure the pinking

Great your getting there. Was this rotating the dizzy, or using the vernier gauge (if your dizzy has one?)

Hi. Can I assume that if current anti freeze in the cooling system, is clean and clear, it is doing this job, as would have some brown rust discolouration, if not?

Maybe too lean now, if the issue was the filters etc upside down?

Definitely. I had done some ignition work and also changed the air filters, though wrongly assumed it must be ignition causing the problem so I was chasing that for a while with same symptom, every time I took for a test drive (ok for a few miles then terrible). I then remembered the air filters, and that was the problem on the one carb, sorted straight away and ran fine. I wasn't as knowledgeable then, if I had looked at the plugs then I'm sure the the 3 from that carb would have been very sooty/wet and would have pointed to carb issue, rather than ignition

Once, I fitted a filter on upside down on one carb. Car would run ok for a few miles, then terrible

I bought a couple of NOS spacers off Mick Dolphin (nice guy) maybe about 18 months ago

Of course. Gel useful for areas of body, etc

I had the chirping noise on Vitesse (disappeared when the clutch slightly depressed with fingers) . Not that uncommon apparently, and may be caused by a shorter than should be, release bearing often supplied. I have a thread on here regarding this issue and cured the noise with a weak spring on the push rod. Info and a photo on here somewhere?

I had one bell housing bolt that had come out on an Iveco van. Van would shake like hell, over 55mph. I was surprised it caused this

Great your happy with it, no more messing now!, though always other stuff!

Also, I have found you can make a liquid into a gel, using wallpaper paste. Cling film over it will prevent it drying too quickly

Thanks, that's great. I only want to pull the wooden section out a bit, to rust proof the electrical connections at this point, though have restored a spare one that came with the car to maybe fit in the future

Thanks Johny. Looks like a possible candidate?. Wonder what access is like. Surprised there aren't more comments about this

Don't know?, though after you mentioned this before, I always check if I'm in there, and so far fine

Hi. I can't find anything detailing this in my manuals, after removing the front screws, it appears to be held somewhere behind the glove box area, where ?, doesn't seem obvious to me. Ta, Dave

Thanks. Wondering about the rest of the loom connections, for protection, as car is parked outside 24/7 and prone to winter damp

Hi. Old school mechanics used copper grease on battery terminals, will it be ok on other connections (dialectical grease a lot dearer and I already have a couple of tubs of copper) Ta

Thanks Guys. I did wonder about its accuracy, as even though the S hose is downstream from the valve and does go to manifold, will not maybe as accurate as direct from the manifold?

Thanks Pete. Weather will be cooler now anyway. Will bear in mind for next summer. Idle is set pretty low at around 600rpm, so will up it and lean off mixture a bit

Hi. Thinking of fitting one to Vitesse (I know its probably is an unnecessary "must have"). I only want to do this if it's relatively straightforward and simplistic ?. Car has the standard PCV arrangement and would like to use a period Smiths gauge . Would it be possible and work out, to put a T piece in the middle of the S shape hose that's between the valve and inlet manifold. If so, what other bits would I need, eg, type/size of hose, hose size reducers, etc Ta