daverclasper

So could this be soldered with gas torch, plumbers flux and electrical solder wire (as asked above)?. Dave

Hi Alan, I would like them please. would it be best for you to PM me with your address?. Thanks, Dave

Thanks John. I only have a small soldering iron. Could I use a gas torch and plumbers flux, with electrical solder wire?. Dave

Hi folks. I have a Mig welder earth cable that I salvaged from a scrap welder. Was thinking of using it as an engine earth, from bell housing to neg battery post. It's rather long though will see if looping it will take up some slack. Is this feasible/worth doing please?. Thanks, Dave

Though, if only offered to members with a deposit of the value and maybe a smallish fee to cover "general wear and tear". maybe workable?.

Yes. a little heat, can often/sometimes, go a long way. Dave

Hi. It's the manual one. I think mine is taking longer than usual to build up pressure and maybe losing pressure sooner. If the seal had failed, then would the body be leaking?. I am not aware they can be dismantled?, any pointers please. Cheers, Dave

There not a tight fit. The shaft wears more than rocker bores. On Vitesse, my shaft was worn (more so at the front), so the oil scrolls/grooves no longer existed. No noise and didn't affect valve clearance, though oil not lubing the rocker bores/valve tips and maybe the cam, if not running down the push rod holes. You should be able to see oil running in this area when idling, though if not could also be blockage in shaft/rocker oil holes. I just changed the shaft as, cheap (though maybe crap), as also the re manufactured rockers could well be crap. Dave

What is that?

Ah, thanks Pete. Have never taken the jets up first to centre them. makes sense.

None of that malarky these days Doug, been together 17 years. Anyway, did get get it going next morning (thanks for the tip of getting pure petrol in first and getting it hot on that). Just a very slight bit of pinking occasionally now. The pub let us stay an extra night at no extra cost, so all ok there. Just out of interest. I did have to adjust the mixture after all this (half a turn on one carb). Assuming it was ok before, could this be because of unscrewing the jet holders to drain the bowls. I would have thought in theory the jets would have still been at pretty much the same height after doing them back up?. Thanks for your support on this one. Dave

Thanks everyone. Hoping to make it tom as it's my 60th B day treat from my girlfriend. I have got a remote tank gravity fed arrangement that I could maybe fit above the carbs, If the pump feed was clamped (I think the pump stops pumping with full pressure, eg, when the float bowls are full?). If I get it running on this til its hot, then switch to petrol/diesel mix and get to petrol station to fill up (do I need to try and keep it running at this point, or can I switch off and start again potentially). I did spray the plugs before with carb cleaner, but will give them the full Monty on the stove. I Will be able to put a few more litres in before this. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Filled up Vitesse to go away for weekend. Tank was already a 1/4 full, so about 30 Litres of diesel. Siphoned what I could out and cranked over with petrol pipe cracked at the carb until it pretty much stopped. Drained float bowls and emptied the split piping going to carbs. Put a gallon of fuel in and cranked over until fuel coming out of pipe at front of carbs (still seemed a bit oily compared to normal petrol fuel) Was hoping to get it running enough to get to station to put more in to dilute any diesel. Don,t know if after all that there was still some diesel in tank, especially as I've never been sure it's always been on reserve or not. Anyway car won't start all all now Just a quick cough once. Have a spark at plugs. Maybe still contaminated with too much diesel to even start?. Any help brill as would like to try a get away tomorrow is pos Thanks, Dave

Yes. those very thin dremel discs could be good for that. They break if you sneeze on them. Go very slow, removing very small amount and avoid pressure/snatching. Forgot to add I also did my front trunnions with the nylon bushes with a junior hacksaw. I think I levered the edges of the water/dust covers out the way with old screwdriver etc to gain access. Bit hair raising not to saw into the trunnions, but went ok.

Total bargain. The bodies and most fundamental parts, eg pistons, should be the same I would imagine, though don't know for sure?.

Hi Iana. I never did get mine out (only tried one side) and left it at that, as doesn't appear to be causing a problem at present. I don't know if cutting through the bolt is a different scenario than front susp bushes. They were a case of carefully cutting through the bush/bolt, through about a 2mm? gap between wish bones, bottom chassis brackets/top turrets, as I remember. Dave

Mike Papworth had that done to mine a few years ago when he rebuilt my O/D box as lay shaft bearing was breaking up. I assumed the sleeve would be flush with the end of the cluster. I think he also fitted a longer needle bearing, though can't exactly remember. This box had been rebuilt by him about 15000 miles previous (way before I bought the car). Don't know if was using re manufactured layshafts then that caused an early failure. When he rebuilt it was apparently with a good second hand one.

Had fair bit of play in spindles/body, luckily new spindles improved this. Think I once read about someone fitting small o'rings on spindles up against the body. Don't know if this is a bodge that works to help stop air entering?

Have found that when set up properly and car used regularly, Stroms don't need to be messed with often

I have had an issue (as have others), where even though the jets are centered a piston wont drop freely and this was using the thin diaphragms. Don't know what causes it. Maybe worth trying for your issue. When screwing the top caps down, try and do it equally and in small amounts of a turn while checking the piston still drops at each bit of a turn. If it sticks then try backing off other screws a tad until it drops. It's a bit time consuming, but has worked for me and others.

When I first got Vit, it was breathing direct into centre of filter box. This made the filters a bit oily and was always running pretty rich low down. Managed to get valve,bracket,hoses and connecting hose stub into manifold for a tenner of Ebay. Since then the mixture is lot more stable accross the range.

I would have thought so, but Iv'e no idea of tooling up costs verses demand?.

Not sure I get that Colin (or there some irony in there?), as the more worn the bearings=more rattle?.

I have read a few different opinions and some suggest that all the bodies and pistons etc have all been machined pretty the much the same (I guess you wouldn't be able to obtain suitably sized replacement pistons otherwise) therefore, don't have to be pairs etc? Dave

Never used to even noticed start up rattle. until I read about it. (unfortunately!). Dave