daverclasper

I have heard of folk using the white "stuff", that's for brightening up tennis shoes (don't know if it's still available, as maybe these days, folk bin them and buy a new pair, if they get a bit grubby). Dave

Hi. That's normal. Good luck with the car, sounds like it's ok. Dave

Wow Doug. Was that with no reconditioning at all, along the way?. Dave

Hi Tanky. I think if you can use car over winter sometimes it's beneficial (these cars don't like standing). that also gives the opportunity do do, some of those jobs one at time. This helps with showing any specific improvements/worse things, related to what you have just done. It could be a bit of a jigsaw determining what's causing any (possible/likely), issues, if you have replaced parts/adjusted stuff, all at the same time. I think Dave

Thanks a lot for the input chaps. No paint marks, though feel quite heavy and an AF nut fits. Very fine surface crazing on rubber, so hopefully ok. they were £20 inc postage. My current ones are working ok, though look ancient. One of those, will I ever need them?, buys. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Bought some for Vitesse off E bay, advertised as NOS. They look like they have been hanging around as some surface rust. There are no ID markings on the rubber/steel. Anyone know if genuine ones would have this please?. Thanks, Dave

That could be the case I think Colin. A wealthy blokes wife see's a Vit conv. "ooh, I'd like one". Not as many in Europe and need left hookers (but don't tell the wife).

I wonder if for general driving, fairly limited miles, we need to view some of these parts as more like service items. Not ideal, though a lot are cheap and when you have to replace, you are so used to the job and the fastenings haven't had time to seize! (apart for example, a clutch thrust bearing which is more time and I would try and get a good one). I guess it's better than having a rarer car (for example a Marina), where I assume a lot of parts are are harder to find/Unavailable?. I do find it frustrating myself, though trying to be optimistic. Dave

I reckon you could use Araldite. Pound shop sell a 2 part double syringe thing, that seems strong and goes off in about 5 mins. Dave

Maybe some copper grease over them, easier to remove clips in the future/deter ingress of water?. Dave

I don't think there's a problem with the standard/short nipples fitting, just you can't get the gun tip, to it. Dave

But using that, means the gun then fouls?, which I assume was the reason the post was about lack of success with a long nipple. Messed about with all this myself and will go with the above advice "not worth the hassle"?. Dave

Thanks Tanky, for the info on revving the engine, if not an obvious leak. That wouldn't have occurred to me, and I consider myself fairly experienced. Cheers Dave

Thanks Dan Electrickery not my strong point. So fit dynamo (so it it is earthed?), then would a wire from pos terminal of battery to small terminal on dynamo do it?. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Intend fitting my apparently recon dynamo (if I can the pulley off the old one). It was bought off a private seller on ebay some years ago. Can I assume it is negative earth do you think. If not, what harm may it do if I fit it. Also is there a simple test to determine it's polarity please, if I should do this before I fit it. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Just interested. The un-greasable joints are greased at the manufactures?, though not sealed for life, as such?. Dave

I understand the Mk1 manifold is not a great design as gasket sealing goes and this is compounded by new gaskets not being so good. I have seen old threads on this problem and folk considering using 2 gaskets, though no more info on this. PS. Apologies if this info has given you, yet another headache, but thought it worth mentioning?. Hopefully others may have more conclusive info on this. Dave

My rockers weren't getting much oil, mainly 123456, even though my oil pressure was reading healthy. I stripped it down, expecting gunge/blockage in shaft/rocker holes. It was pretty clean, though the shaft had worn heavily at front of engine, going less so to rear. This meant the small scroll oil channels that are inline with the exit oil holes in shaft, in the rocker areas were non existent. New shaft and oil was coming out of the rockers. I should check it, as now 2 years down the line, as the new shafts have a poor reputation. I think some folk view it as a replacement service item. On second thoughts, the rockers weren't noisy and no quieter with new shaft. Maybe I could have reground the scrolls on old shaft with a dremel small disk and got the same result?. Dave

Thanks folks. Nope, haven't got an impact wrench (it's on my "ideal" list, though maybe it should be on the"must have"?). Haven't got an old fan belt either, though may try rope?. Dave

Hi. My nut is quite rusted onto shaft. Will try pent fluid and maybe some heat, though is there also a way of locking the shaft, without damaging pulley or fan. Failing that, I can cut the nut off, though is it a common size thread to replace it. Cheers, Dave

And if it's a new repro?, it could be crap?. Dave

Hi Pete. I could well be wrong, though there does appear to be a slight ridge/lip at the bottom, (around where the inner edge of the outer bearing sits if my memory serves me). Maybe not the case as you say, as I assume also, this would have worn through any surface hardening and this maybe visible/wearing quickly?. Dave

I think the brushes can be replaced in the Lucas ones, if that's the issue. Dave

I have always had more play top to bottom. The stub axle appears to have more wear at the bottom in the bearing area (more bearing load on this bit maybe?). Could yours be this?. Dave

Can you explain that please, as Iv'e no idea.