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daverclasper

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Everything posted by daverclasper

  1. Ta. Sorted. Bottom of the never ending little things to do list Dave
  2. Thanks Pete. I didn't make a note of which rod it was (should have been more anal!), though maybe was no 4, which was the rocker that had most wear in the bore and on the pad and corresponding area of shaft. I guess the push rod can be removed to check straightness by valve in closed position and screwing in the adjuster?. Sorry, another question. Dave
  3. That's me, Mr anal. One more pedantic question please. I marked the pushrods with a spot of white paint to see if they are turning. All are doing complete revolutions except one that is turning back and forth. Ok I guess?. Dave
  4. Thanks so much folks. New shaft fitted and oil now running out of all rocker top holes. Dave
  5. Hi. Daft question maybe, though non member posted a picture of Spit mounts that are squarish (similar to a Vitesse, which is what I'm looking for) , Looking at the jag ones one from Barrets, that fit Spits, they are round. So, completely not adaptable I assume?. Cheers, Dave
  6. Cheers Pete, other things I mentioned not an issue then. Cheers, Dave
  7. Hi. Have dismantled old shaft. Only one rocker seemed really bad so will replace that. Do I have to screw the adjusters in a bit to allow for the new shaft not being worn, before I fasten the pedestals down?. Of course I will be checking valve clearance's before I start it. One other thing, the WSM says there is a rattle proof washer for the Pozi screw that goes through oil feed pedestal, into shaft. mine didn't have one. the screws pretty beveled below the head so does a flat washer crush to that shape when tightened?. Shall I just make sure screw is pretty tight?. Also my shaft is blanked off at each end, so think it's ok to just to use split pins?. New shaft is about 1mm longer than old shaft, I'm guessing rocker cover will still have plenty of room, also a couple of the oil flats have been machined to only just within the sides of the rockers, in there position on shaft (well it was only £25), so hope that's ok. Any further advice great please. Thanks, Dave
  8. Cheers Pete. Your knowledge, practical advice. Brill. Dave
  9. Hi. I intend to fit the new rocker shaft this weekend. Will be replacing a few of my worst rockers second hand items. Will use my original adjusters and keep them marched to the pushrods. will the second hand rocker pads need to bed in to tip of valves. If so, should I check valve clearance every 1000 miles or so, for a while?. Thanks, Dave
  10. I believe it's the diaphragm that can be/is dodgy.
  11. I understand that it is common for replacement valves to fail within a year. I bought one from the manufacturers (a northern engineering company. I imagine they supply all the trade) who suggested the valve is left in the open position when left on. I do this and open it up for a bit whenever I'm driving the car. The car is also used all year round regularly. Mine has been ok for over 4 years. Maybe I've just been lucky and it will fail now I've said this!. Dave
  12. Hi. At cruising speed 3000 revs, when doing a plug chop, mine are a mid grey colour (rather than brown). I have read that this is ok with modern fuel?. Any help, great. Thanks, Dave
  13. Hi Clive. No personal experience, though Owen Springs (Rotheram) and GB springs have been recommended on classic forums. Dave
  14. If it's lacking............ give it a whacking Dave
  15. After bending the bolt on a fairly substantiation splitter with a particularly stubborn joint, I now just use less tension and a good tap on side of joint. Why not?. Dave
  16. I use one of those. Tension up the tool and hammer blow to side of hole. Dave
  17. Looks like Cactus was trim colour for cherry (along with 2 other colours from 66-69). Looks like it could be a bit faded Cactus) Dave
  18. Looks a pretty original straight car. Must be an early Mk1 on a D plate. What colour of red is that does anyone know. I'd have a look at this one if I didn't already have my own. Dave
  19. Thanks It doesn't seem to drain down at all though, even over a few weeks+. Could it be blocked somewhere, do you think?. Cheers, Dave
  20. Hi. I do this every so often, although it doesn't seem to take any oil and the oil sits on top around the screw. Does this mean it's ok, or should the oil drain down into the cam spindle. Any help great, thanks. Dave
  21. I always take the plugs out after filter change to give better cranking for pressure build up. Dave
  22. Some of the suppliers, who restore Truimph's may have a source for better ones? I'm thinking Canley, Chic Doig, Jimsaw, maybe there's more?. Dave
  23. Just an idea. I had a hole develop on the top area of rad. Cleaned it up and roughed up the metal and used JB Weld. Still ok 4 years later. Dave
  24. I think all Triumphs were fitted with Britax? (not as romantic sounding/more basic than webasto, but do the job). Also, one area that's overlooked I think, is the the rear plate that holds the top cover, can be adjusted for tautness, as the 3/4 fastenings move in elongated holes. Dave
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