daverclasper

Hi. Just wondering. My rad tap is seized to some lesser or more extent , though I just undo bottom hose to drain. Am I missing something?. Cheers, Dave

Jigsaw Triumph and other restorers etc may have access to more uncommon parts. Cheers, Dave

Thanks a lot for your replies. I did know about dash pots slowing down the piston to enrich. Must have had a funny moment!. Cheers, Dave

Thanks Richard. Car is my only transport, so any quick, , idea of what may be the problem is useful for me. So, concluding. The height of needle pistons when revving, does not vary due to failed d.........'s It was just a thought Dave

Hi. I'm always looking to improve my diagnosing knowledge. No issue at the mo. If a diaphragm fails can this be diagnosed by off taking air filter box and revving engine to compare piston lift (twin carbs). I understand its vacuum above diaphragm that pulls the piston up, if so a piston not lifting properly, could be due to diaphragm?. I this is the case, then I assumed it would cause a weak mixture, though I think I read diaphragm (god, if i have to spell that word yet again, I will lose will to live) failure causes rich mixture. Any advice great, thanks. Dave.

It does appear that the ice caps are consistently melting at a very fast rate?. Dave

Hi. Used to one of these back in the day , when I prob didn't one. Not sure if i need one now, as car runs well . I set timing static, if need be, then adjust for advance/retard by any pinking. I guess, I would like to go for a luxury environment, "what's happening at different revs with the timing". Any improvement on performance and fuel consumption (good on runs, but half that driving around the city ). Is it worth me buying one for this scenario?. If so, are new cheap one's any use for occasional use, or better to look for used (budget, around £15). Any help great, thanks. Dave

Hi Paul. Just checking you've tried un-siezing tricks. My fave, is some heat and penetrating oil, a few times if necessary. Normally works, if getting good purchase a problem, then maybe not?. Dave

In the past, Iv'e wrapped by hand around the top hose. If it feels hot, though not unbearable , then this seems about right. Of course this is subjective, though practice on a few hoses that you know are running ok temp. Not sure if this is ok advice, or a bit silly?. Dave

Hi. Would Aradite not fix?. Pound land do a 2 part syringe one that sets in about five mins and seems very strong. you could clamp in with your fingers for that time. Dave

Dohhhh.

Thanks folks. Some good food for thought. I assume it's the U.V that wrecks rubber etc, more so than the temp?. Cheers, Dave

Hi Wiper blade rubber/s has gone hard. Seems you can only buy the whole arm, not just the blade?. Any tips on just buying the blade/modifying a generic rubber blade please?. Cheers, Dave

I'm always dead slow over those drastic ones. Often there's a high speed/4x4 modern right up my a.... I do find a fair bit of intolerance, even bullying, driving a relatively small classic. I'm old, but I'm sure they are far more grumpy (sociopathic, even). Does my head in a bit really. Dave

Cheers Pete. It occur to me that maybe a Mk 2 shaft due to the blanking off and therefore use of pin. I had the rocker cover off today to compare lengths due to what you said earlier on in thread. bit hard to compare with the caps on. Looks like new could be up to 4mm longer, though not sure even if it is longer. Paddocks (where I bought it) show same pic for both shafts. On Rimmers, there's different pics and the pic for Mk1 has a groove a few mm from each end, Like my new one, though don't know if this means anything anyway, as what's it for?. What difference about in length are we looking at, do you know please. Cover is now back on and won't be able to see if shaft fit's inside cover. I will ring Paddocks just to confirm it's correct. Thanks, Dave

My new Mills pin/s measure 3.2mm/0.125984" if that's use for anyone in the future. The new shaft is blanked off at each end just inside of the pin holes, so split pins could be used I guess, if that's useful for anyone who has to do this job. Dave

If it's the diaphragm that's gone then they are in theory replaceable, though I couldn't obtain one. From memory there's also a rubber seal that seals the unit to the matrix. This is available I think, or possible to knock up an alternative?. I replaced mine with a standard one direct from a place up North that makes them (I assume supplies all usual suspects). Some folk have had problems with them failing in a year or so. Mine has been fine for 4 years though car is used all the time and I open up the heater regularly to keep it active. Also the supplier said to have the heater in the on position when not in use, as this prolongs life. Dave

One small/light item (along with a few kilos of other tools etc) that I do have in boot for longer trips, is a small telescopic magnet (£1.00 at local tat shop). Theory being, that much more likely to lose small parts when stressed/in a hurry. Also found that when you can't actually see the nut, etc, you can wave the magic wand in the general direction and it often picks it up. Where do you stop though?. Maybe best cleansing the boot and with it, the soul, forever. Dave

Cheers Pete. I thought as long as there was some reasonable friction on tapping in it would be ok. I have done some daft things in the past, so a bit cautious. Thanks, Dave

Hi. Have ordered new shaft and mills pins from Paddock's. Have replaced the split pins with the original Mills, with the shaft in situ until I have time to do it properly. They tapped in with lowish use of medium sized hammer, about the same as most roll pins Iv'e done before (wouldn't have gone mad in case of shaft/pedestal damage). Maybe hard to gauge unless you did it your self, but are they likely to stay in and if not what likely damage would it do. Will let you what the new pins measure. Thanks, Dave

Thanks. One of the mills pins was very tight to get out and I thought maybe new ones even harder to re-fit, so I was hoping for an alternative. Will have to bite the bullet I guess. Cheers, Dave

I noticed the horizontal shallow, scrolls? have worn down to non existance on most of front of shaft and the bore surface of one rocker had worn so much there is quite high relief area of the original surface in a shape that corresponds to the vertical scroll. A few more rockers are now not dribbling oil out of top holes but there is quite a fast dribble of oil running down from my split pins at each end cap where they are a tad small. Ok for now I guess?. I don't know if for the future, to buy just a new shaft and use some of the better rockers along with a few second hand ones I have that seem ok, or is this likely to muller the new shaft that may not be of good quality anyway?. I could buy a complete new assembly if they do them for Mk1's, though I am wary of possible dubious quality?. Any advice on this please. Thanks, Dave

I think Clive had a recent link for a Bosch coil, about £20 I think. Can't remember which thread it was though.

Apologies. Need to correct a bit of above. I mean't to say 11 rocker adjuster, ball sections have a slight flat edge. Not the top of pushrods. Dave

Quite surprised no threads since May about cooling, especially in this weather!. Dave