daverclasper

Cheers Pete Will start with the simplest, good reminder. Thanks, dave

Hi On Vitesse, this has recently started on occasion. Any ideas on what it may be. Don't know if brakes, or load on brakes maybe moving something loose on axles/suspension. Any help great please. Thanks, Dave

Hi Picked up a second hand Smiths for a tenner off E Bay, so chuffed. It was pretty free moving, though ran some oil into it through that little screw hole (ideally would liked to have cleaned/greased it, though it seemed a shame to take it apart (as drilled small holes in the end plates to hook them out on the old one). fitted a washer even though a Smiths. So working speedo again. Thanks for your help everyone. Cheers, Dave

Hi Picked up a second hand Smiths for a tenner off E Bay, so chuffed. It was pretty free moving, though ran some oil into it through that little screw hole (ideally would liked to have cleaned/greased it, though it seemed a shame to take it apart (as drilled small holes in the end plates to hook them out on the old one). fitted a washer even though a Smiths. So working speedo again. Thanks for your help everyone. Cheers, Dave

Cheers Colin Your message came in while replying to Pete. Will try that. Thanks, Dave

Cheers Pete. I guess it's hard to know what the lengths of both inners should be out of the inside of outer locking things? (what are they called?). Would you wind the outer case clockwise to shorten?. I can mark it to see how much it's shortening. Maybe about 3mm and see if it improves?. Thanks, Dave

Hi Couldn't find a specific section for this on forum, though as I thought it may be the dizzy drive related, I put it here. Cant find any info on the net for mechanical clocks with this problem. A while back my rev counter needle started to bounce intermittently a bit at idle. I took inner cable out and cleaned and lubed it with a bit of oil. Kept oil away from the top few inches near clock. cable felt like it turned freely. No different. Now it has started to sometimes bounce widly, to about half way around the clock. Any suggestions please about whether I may be able to fix it myself (can't afford to send it to pro's) please. Any help great please. Thanks, Dave

That's where I found mine. Paul. Just looked. Screwfix, do something very similar/same for £8. They show the sizes. Or a model shop may sell single ones?.

Cheers Pete. Surprised myself, getting that done. Paul. It was an assorted size box from Maplins of compression and extending springs I picked up off someones wall (folk do that around here with stuff they don't want. It's great). The different sizes have been useful on a few occasions. I used the hooked, extending type to give the throttle a much lighter action, as it apparently causes much less wear on the spindles than the factory one. Dave

Hi Wayne. Done another 30 miles and still no noise, so hopefully a fix. Will try some pics. The first is what's on the car with the spring a tight fit (on a fairly new push rod, which is a tight fit. Second is an older spare, which is a bit thinner, so used 2 spring. you could fit a spacer to get the right length. Was surprised how little spring load has made the difference. Dave

Just a practice

Hi Your idea Pete, thanks. Wayne. I'll give it some more mileage (maybe disturbing the arm, S/C cylinder has masked it temporarily) and if necessary adjust the spring position and see what happens. Will keep this thread posted. If it seems to have worked will try and put photo on. Dave

Hi Pete, I have fitted a fairly low tension spring to the top of push rod (It's an interference fit, though can be adjusted up and down, by twisting the spring, if that makes sense). It is currently only about 2mm proud of tip of pushrod, though has silenced the Canary on a short test drive. Won't likely have put any load on the crank thrusts will it ?, do you think (as a bit paranoid of this). Thanks, Dave

Cheers Pete , and many thanks for your always good ideas on alternative ways of doing stuff. Like the spring to the push rod idea. Will give a go if can find suitable spring. Thanks, Dave

Cheers Pete Don't mind the noise. Good bodgery fine by me. Trying to prevent G/B out and expense for clutch repairs is main concern. Thanks, Dave

Thanks Pete. Would like to go for the simpler job of a heavier S/C spring. I assume that's the conical shaped one?. Any clues where to start looking for that please?. Use car for work, so not ideal to strip it to get an idea of size at the mo. Cheers, Dave

Thanks Pete Chirruping noises is a good description of me driving along in my Triumph Aviary. Just a couple of questions please You mentioned the older slaves with some push rod play. I imagine the bearing would only be in contact with diaphragm when you press the pedal and this would cause less wear on bearing?. These slaves will be hard to get in ok condition I imagine. Any way of modifying my current one?. Or, would it be fine to fit a heavier slave spring, though I imagine the bearing would be turning all the time (years ago a mechanic told me about premature bearing failure, due to folk leaving there foot resting on the clutch pedal). Any ideas where I would get a spring from?. Sorry, that was more than 2 questions and hope I'm not banging on about irrelevant stuff. Thanks again, Dave

Thanks Pete. That's great info. Noise, not too bad with G/B on so will leave it, unless it gets worse. Unless it is slowly causing wear/damage to diaphragm fingers etc?. Also is the throw out bearing also called release bearing please. Cheers, Dave

Hi and thanks. Noise seems to be from bell housing area and is almost a squealing noise, have noticed it's there a bit at idle in neutral as well. Very gentle pressure on the clutch pedal and it stops (my clutch disengages quite high up the pedal travel, since I fitted one of those very cheap Landy M/C) whether in neutral on driving along. Cheers, Dave

Hi This is quite loud with gearbox cover off. Starts at about 1200 rpm. Does it in all gears (not sure about reverse) and also in neutral if the engines is revved up a bit. Gearbox was rebuilt by Mike Papworth about 6,000 miles ago and not had hard use. Any ideas? and something I should look at sooner rather than later? (prefer not to have to take G/B out really). Any help great please. Thanks, Dave

Thanks. Pretty sure mine came out of U/V joint end of S/J somehow!. Will investigate when get time. Cheers, Dave

Hi Wayne. Did you get around to greasing S/J. If so, where did the grease exit from please?. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Finally around to dismantling mine and knocked out the ferule?/broken cable bit out of large pinion. Not confident to try a repair. So will look out for a Smith unit secondhand. A few questions please. Would a Smiths require the washer (or would it do any harm) as I understand BL used copies in production at some point so may be when the bulletin info came in (above is dated 68)?. I assumed the washer fits inside the knurled locking ring on the A/D to put extra distance between A/D and the threaded adapter (and therefore the O/D pinion) the ring screws onto, though the washer pictured on the bulletin looks too large for that (maybe not to scale). Also some Smiths are advertised for MGB. Have been told these will fit Triumph. I guess any differences on this Smiths model, would be down to different sized square end of speedo cable?. Any other make of car that would be compatible, does anyone know?. Any help great please. thanks, Dave

Hi. No personal experience, but a lot of info out there about the standard gearbox not up to torque of the 2.5. I think the standard G/B can be modified to take the some extra BHP to some extent and also folk fit ford Type 9 box, which is apparently very strong. Dave

Hi. Would it be ok to use this on any electrical components, for example, the inside of the voltage regulator. Any advice great, thanks. Dave