daverclasper

Thanks I'll go for a bit wet is ok now. (no jokes thanks, "Matrons"). Dave

Hi. Does that fluid transfer also relate to Master Cylinders. Have replaced seals in the past because of a bit of fluid in the boots, thinking they are failing ?. Cheers, Dave

Cheers folks Pete. What sort of racket/type of noise would overstrocking the clutch make Dave

Hi, and thanks It has good oil pressure, though a bit of noise on first start of the day and decided not to worry about this. What's made me worry a bit was. After moving off one morning it made some noise and after a few miles I had to move off on a gradient twice and knocked a bit. Twice after just starting after a few of hours it made a bit of noise on same day. Drove it onto ramps to listen underneath and it made a hell of knocking (high revs and slipping clutch) Seems quiet underneath, even using screw driver when idling/some revs. Only other thing, I fitted a Landy bigger clutch M/C recently and at at around the same time , it makes a bit of a whine from a cold start that disappears with clutch pressure and when warmed up. Don't want the hassle of this work. Just want to drive it. Cheers, Dave

Cheers, Pete and Richard and John Hopefully looking to extend the engine life cheaply for a few more years if possible. I don't drive it hard. Pete. Can the engine raise until the bell housing touches the bulkhead?. Even then problematic?. Can't imagine how to refit oil pump with sump in semi position. Thanks, Dave

Hi folks Planning on dropping the Vitesse sump to replace main/big end shells and thrust washers. I was thinking it would be wise to measure the B E journals for tolerance/ovality if possible. If a B E cap was removed at bottom of stroke, then conrod/piston pushed up, high enough to measure all around journal with vernier/micrometer. Conrod could then be pulled back down to mate up. Would this be a useful/viable proposition do you think, please. Any help great please. Cheers, Dave

my Vitesse has one shim,each wishbone/chassis bracket on off side and tyre wear is normal. Nearside has two and is wearing outer edge of tyre more. also the top outer edge of this tyre is about 1/2" prouder to the wheel arch than tother (could be different body alignment, chassis twist, though nothing visually wrong on chassis and front and rear sections of main rails are showing level to each other . Haven't done camber check yet, but going off tyre wear I guess I could fit yet more shims to off side to correct any excessive positive camber, though, this seems excessive? Car runs in a straight line. Any help great would be great please. Cheers, Dave

Hi folks Are these a useful bit of kit and do what it says on the tin. Also when using it for fuel pressure test for car with a mechanical pump, if engine was turned off. Would the the fuel pressure still be held (as a leak down test, to see if needle valves are seating). Any help great please. Cheers, Dave

Hi folks Have just obtained a generic inline fuel tap to fit between the tank and main fuel line for the Vitesse as possible anti theft device (as car parked a bit vulnerably at the mo). A couple of questions please. The bore of the stubs on the filter is approx 4mm. Will this be enough to supply fuel at all revs (as I under stand that lack of fuel at high revs. can do damage to engine). What typical distance would the car do on a probably cold engine (If it was nicked by would be thieves) with fuel cut off from the tank on start up. Any advice great please. Cheers, Dave

Hi What are the issues with the original skinny studs. Mine has these. I just torque up by hand (have always done on vehicles). Don't drive hard/very fast or corner fast. Am I an accident waiting to happen?. Been pondering this for a while after all the threads on it. Cheers, Dave

I had a knock a lower speeds over rough surfaces. It was a front radius arm bush. cheers, Dave

Cheers Clive Will do that. Dave

Hi folks. My cars is very sound bodily, though shows traces of rust around/top of quite a few seams. Guess this rust in seams is common in classics (and hidden in newly painted "restored " ! ones). Not easy to sort properly I guess. So, alternatively, clean up visual rust , treat/paint the surface to keep at bay and won't be rotted out for a long time hopefully. Any advice great please. Cheers, Dave

Hi. It's the original diaphragm (another story why I removed it), though looking back, I fitted the inner tab of diaphragm correctly in line, though there wasn't (to me) an obvious way to locate the inner edge centrally, so did it by eye. This could maybe result in the top cap bore being a bit to one side when the outer edge fits into the carb body?. Cheers, Dave

Hi and thanks a lot for getting back The top cover is in correct and it's usual position. The jet assembly not fitted yet. The piston moves freely in the top cover and carb body. The problem appears to be a super sensitivity when doing the screws up. Pushing the piston up while doing alternating (1/8 turns) of screws and it will often bind. Backing screw back and tweaking others, then screwing again and I have finally got the piston to drop, though it is slow (compared to other carb) and doesn't make the reassuring noise when it contacts the bridge. Not sure if I can successfully center (my brand new) jet and needle while like this and also carb may not function properly. Cheers, Dave

Hi folks Have done this before quite a few times fairly easily. Have removed the diaphragm and refitted it with tabs correctly located. Now having real trouble tightening the top cover (diagonally opposite sides a little at a time) without the piston sticking (one screw seems more rogue than the others and even the slightest turn will cause this). Any clues would be great thanks Cheers, Dave

Can't quite picture all that, though, after trying to re grease the Half shaft U/J's (even buying the longer nipples) on Vitesse ,I couldn't get the grease gun tip in there whatever the shaft orientation. Was informed on here that this is normal and even if you can access them, then grease will not usually push out of all 4 bearings, so called it a day. Cheers Dave

Hi I had my Vitesse 2 litre box rebuilt by Mike Papworth. He recommended fitting only 1 of the 3 springs (didn't matter which 1) and showed me an old part which had gouges in due to the 3 springs. Seemed odd, but went with it, as he's reputedly an expert. Cheers, Dave

Anything rubber which is difficult to manipulate into place, I leave in very hot water for a minute. Seems to often work. Cheers, Dave

Ed china, who's a big lad, was passenger in a spit, he and Mike brewer did. His head was way above the screen, wearing goggles. Bit amusing I thought. Don't know who's joke it was first.

Hi Is the factory "fitted length",with the shock and spring fitted together but, off the car, or on the car with suitable loading (bags of sand etc) please. Cheers, Dave

Hi folks Vitesse Is this worth doing, and if so what's the best lubricant. Also, do the inner cables just pull out, if say disconnected at the drive ends. Any help great please. Cheers, Dave

I think that's subjective.

Hi. Had problems with bleeding clutch in the past. One thing that seemed to help a lot. Do normal bleeding, then open bleed nipple and push the slave cylinder push rod/piston up to front of cylinder (to expel any air from top of housing) and tighten nipple. Cheers, Dave

Hi and thanks. Would like to take it for a hard blast to clear carbon etc, though concerned something might "let go" as don't have any history of any rebuild type engine work that may have been done in the past. Cheers, Dave