[garage diagnostic equipment]

Cheers for that tip Pete.

 

Its funny. When I cleaned carbs out I also sprayed carb cleaner into the metal T piece piping that feed both carbs and they appeared clean.

 

This morning I sucked at the front of this as it's back on car and spat it into a jar (not pleasant).  There was this sort of pale white jelly in with the petrol, that seemed to emusify after being in warmer house for a while.

 

Just wondered what this might be and if it may be causing my problem.

 

The rest of petrol in the line from tank up to this T piece was very clean when pumped/blown through, as was the pump filter gauze.

 

Cheers, Dave 

[colour of spark plugs]

Hi, and thanks for getting back to me.

 

Sorry it's taken ages to reply.

 

Cheers, Dave

[garage diagnostic equipment]

Hi chaps and thanks for your support.

 

This is doing my head in and also I'm losing in the banter stakes, with owners of modern cars in my street who are having electronic problems.

 

Car is now taking longer to misbehave, so that has improved. Maybe I can just use it, to do the shopping now!.

 

Plugs replaced same as old ones (NGK BP5ES). £10.24 inc vat and postage for 6. From, "Doctor Car Parts" off ebay if anyone interested. 

 

When I cleaned out carbs, in hindsight I should have also disconnected fuel line where it comes out of pump and blown it through from carbs to help clear any crap out. Will do this but maybe a bit late.

 

I have never cleaned pump filter as car was fitted with plastic filter, just before pump and this was clean. Clutching at straws now so will take a look (does this have a rubber seal that may fall apart?).

 

Also the LT wire from coil to dizzy looks old and a bit brittle (also this was used with electronic ignition), so will replace this anyway, though I thought as it's LT, it wouldn't break down under load.

 

Thanks for your offer John. I live in Bristol, if by chance that's near you.

 

Cheers, Dave

[garage diagnostic equipment]

Thanks a lot for getting back.

 

Bit of a story so please bear with me.  

 

Vitesse Mk1 2ltre.

 

A bit back I fitted an electronic ignition kit. Car was running fine until I was trying to get the carb mixture better as plugs were always very sooty.

 

With the air box off it backfired and stopped.

 

The rotor arm had come of the cam and rotor had gouged 4 of the segments in dizzy cap. I replaced rotor and car ran, but rough.

 

Fitted a new cap and rotor from dizzy doctor. Car would run ok for a bit then started missing/felt like not running on all 6 cylinders.

 

Fitted points and condenser back on which were not old and adjusted timing to suit, checked vacuum and mech advance. Car still the same (have swapped these back and forth a few times).

 

Couldn't see why it would have damaged coil, but fitted new one. still the same

 

Since then have fitted all new HT leads and finally spark plugs.

 

Also ran wire direct from positive battery post to coil, to rule out ignition switch

 

Car now runs well for about 15/20 minutes (well into operating temp) but then starts to run rough again.

 

Began wondering if the back firing had affected fuel system, or a fuel problem coincidental.

 

Ran car without petrol cap to rule out vacuum in tank.

 

removed petrol pipe from carbs inlet and cranked over. spurting out good amount of fuel.

 

Plastic petrol filter that's fitted just before pump is newish and still clean.

 

Removed carbs. Diaphragms ok. float valve pins moving freely Carbs not dirty though cleaned with carb cleaner including fuel entry passages to float valves.

 

Used a colourtune and leaned down mixture to more a blue colour as was showing orange on both carbs.

 

Checked choke was not sticking on.

 

Now at a loss having replaced all ignition system, though still think it must be related to this, or finally, dirt in fuel line that is blocking it after running a while then unblocking itself after standing.

 

Any advice would be greatly, greatly appreciated. Cheers, Dave   

[garage diagnostic equipment]

Hi everyone

 

Got a problem with ignition system I think, and have replaced all electrical parts (though now also working at pos fueling issue).

 

I think I'm going to have to take it to a garage (for the second time in 20 years).

 

I was wondering if smaller garages normally have diagnostic equipment suitable for older cars that may diagnose electrical/fueling issues quickly, as on a bit of a budget as usual.

 

Any advice much appreciated.

 

Cheers, Dave

 

 

 

 

[cooling system has no pressure]

Hi. Thanks for getting back with the cap info.

 

The expansion bottle seems to stay the same level, hot or cold engine.

 

I wondered about this a while back and I sucked the tube at bottle end to check for air leaks and it held pressure.

 

Cheers, Dave 

[cooling system has no pressure]

Hi everyone

 

I have a vitesse mk1 2ltre.

 

When the engine is up to temperature and I remove the rad cap, It does not have pressure and no hot water spurts out.

 

I have replaced with a new cap from Rare bits so assume is good.

 

No difference.

 

The engine does not overheat, though can get a bit above the center of gauge when idling in traffic on hot days.

 

No coolant loss.

 

Not a big issue I guess, though wondering why.

 

Any advice much appreciated.

 

Cheers, Dave 

[Damage to distributor cap]

Hi, thanks

 

No dizzy to borrow.

 

I took the top plates off the dizzy.  The centrifugal weights are free and springs look ok.

 

Cheers, Dave 

[Damage to distributor cap]

Hi. Reseted timing when fitted Elec Ign and car was running great until this happened.

 

Have also been moving dizzy around since, while car is running, but doesn't improve it with points back in or Elec Ign refitted.

 

Cheers, Dave 

[Damage to distributor cap]

Thank for getting back.

 

Have fitted a new cap from the Dizzy Docter.

 

Car started on the button, but still missing/running very rough when moving and engine under load.

 

It then ran a lot worse and now will hardly start.

 

The vacuem advance is moving when sucking on the tube.

 

Wondering if there could be other damage to dizzy when this happened or when it backfired a couple of times.

 

At a loss, so any thoughts on this would be great.

 

Cheers, Dave

[Damage to distributor cap]

Have being in contact with supplier of the electronic kit, who has some regard in classic car circles.

 

He wanted to know who had given me the above info as he had never heard of this issue.

 

When I disclosed this, he was pretty negative about this person in various way and also described him as doomongerer.

 

So, difficult to get to the bootom of this I reckon.

[Damage to distributor cap]

Thanks for getting back Aidan.

 

Spoke to the Dizzy Doctor who said it happened because the bottom of rotor arm needs to be shaved off for most of the kits, as is in contact with the ring that goes over the cam and therefore not seating properly.

 

And they don't tell you this!.

[Damage to distributor cap]

Hi everyone

 

recently fitted one of the cheaper electronic ignition units (including the rotor arm supplied, which seemed a bit cheap and light)to my Vitesse.

 

Car was running well until it starting missing and back fired for a few seconds then died, while revving at higher revs than I usually do.

 

The rotor arm appeared to have come adrift from its location with a few tiny bits of broken plastic in the top of the cam.

 

Has this ever happened to other owners ?. I think I seated it properly. 

 

Also the rotor arm appears to have have worn/gouged, some of six contacts inside the dizzy cap when this happened.

 

Have replaced the rotor arm with the newish old one.

 

Car will run now, but very rough.

 

Should I just replace the dizzy cap do you think, or could there be other issues ?.

 

Any advice as always much appriciated.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[colour of spark plugs]

Hi everyone

 

I have a Vitesse Mk1 2 Litre

 

My spark plugs are all a sooty (with bit of brown on the centre electrode) colour after town driving which I understand is not uncommon.

 

I did a couple of plug chops while cruising at around 3000rpm to try and get a more general picture.

 

Plug 1 - A very pale grey all over

Plug 2 - A darker grey

Plug 3 - Some where inbetween the first two

Plugs 4,5,6 not too bad a brown colour with some soot (all varied slightly, Is this normal due to different valve wear?).

 

I was a bit concerned about the first 3 plugs looking weak running and opened up the jet 1/4 of a turn

 

I did another plug chop and looked at no 1 plug (as this was the one that looked worse origanaly)

 

It was sooty all over, apart from the tip of the earth electrode, which was very pale grey

 

Is this running rich or weak?.

 

Is this something to be concerned about. I don't drive the car hard.

 

Also if it was running a bit rich on the second carb is this much of a problem (the car does the MPG it should).

 

I think the carbs may be difficult to set up in the usual way (if at all) as have wear in both throttle spindles at present.

 

As always any advice, very much appriciated.

 

Cheers

 

Dave 

 

 

 

 

[play in choke spindle]

Cheers again Pete and for info.

 

I will get new needles for carbs, as they are wrong size and prob worn

.

The jet orifice itself. Are these standard across cd 150's as no history with rebuild carbs, and also can they be subject to wear.

 

Thanks Dave 

[play in choke spindle]

Cheers for getting back Pete.

Its the same carb as fitted to my 67 vitesse. The throttle spindles are worn and have play, but not the corresponding bores of the body, so straight forward to replace spindles.

 

It is the choke I'm wondering about, on one side of one carb, which has the play due to heavy scoring in the bore of the the body for the spindle. Don't know how that happened.

 

It has the flat section in centre of spindle to lift the needle piston when choking (I think this is how it works). Is this the Thames Barrier carb and if so, not much an issue ?.

 

Cheers

 

Dave 

[play in choke spindle]

Hi everyone.

I bought a set of twin Stromberg 150 cd carbs cheap, with the idea of rebuilding, or if not using for spares.

There is some scoring of the carb body of one of them where the choke spindle rotates. This is causing play, above what would be acceptable on a throttle spindle I think.

Would this also cause the same problems with mixture and difficulty in tuning/setting them up.

Any advice as always greatly appriciated.

Cheers

Dave

[Vitesse Mk1 2Litre seat rails]

Thanks so much for all your replies. This has cleared up a lot of things.

cheers

Dave

[excessive starter motor noise]

Thanks for that Pete

 

Dave

[excessive starter motor noise]

Hi everyone

 

I have a Vitesse Mk1 2litre.

 

My starter has recently started to make, a lounder, crunching noise when engaging (happens about 1 in 6 times). bit worried it is damaging the fly wheel ring gear and less importantly the starter pinion. Had gearbox out a month or so back. and both had very good teeth IMO, though not an expert.

 

Starter securing bolts are not loose.

 

Any advice as always, very much appriciated.

 

Cheers

 

Dave 

[Engine Tuning]

Hi Clare

I live in Bristol, though tend to do all my own stuff, so no first hand experience of others.

If it was running ok before lay up, then I would have thought it would not be so much a tuning issue (as settings of carbs/Igniton would not change). It could be something like dirty fuel filter/ carb/s, deteriated carb diaphram etc.

There was an older guy working on classic cars at a quirky little garage in Frenchay villiage who I chatted to a bit back, he works part time now (haven't got his no to hand, though may be able to finf it if you want).

Also EH Motors, near Redland, apparantly work on classics.

Cheers

Dave

[Vitesse Mk1 2Litre seat rails]

Sorry Casper. I meant to put "hits windscreen piller". Not windscreen.

 

Dave 

[Vitesse Mk1 2Litre seat rails]

Thanks so much for all your advice. Very useful.

 

Never before noticed front brackets are offset. My drivers seat hits windscreen even though brackets are correct layout. Read somewhere that pass/drivers seats are different. Could this be it.

 

Cheers, Dave 

[Vitesse Mk1 2Litre seat rails]

Hi everyone.

 

Looked on net and manuals and can't find much on this.

 

My seat rails are bolted down over the carpet and underlay. Is this normal. The factory manual mentiones packing under bolts at front and rear.

 

Both seats were pretty unslidable.

 

I removed drivers side and bottom rail was bent a bit at front end. Have straightened out and now much better.

 

Is it easy to seperate bottom rail from top main body rail. All I can see in there is a quite chunky spring positioned sideways that moves along when sliding.

 

I would like to clean out and lube (anything cleaner than grease?).

 

Also I am wondering if bottom rail with the securing notches is back to front as there is about 3" of travel at rear where the sprung locating lever goes past the notches and therefore won't lock and 4 notches at front that are out of range of lever.

 

Sorry if this goes a bit.

 

Any advice, as always, much appriciated.

 

Cheers, Dave

[GT6 Mk1 Water Return Pipe replacement]

Hi Aidan

Sorry, not able to send pic. If you google "map gas", there are images of torch and bottle.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Dave