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About alarmman49

  • Birthday 01/01/1949

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    Clevedon N. Somerset

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  1. Thanks Alan, Dave and Pete !! ( sorry Pete, got you mixed up in my head ) who sent ideas in..................... it looks like the o/d has got to come out, ah well I've got nothing better to do !!??
  2. Thanks Steve and Dave for your input............... The car is in with my Classic car man as we speak ( I'm too old and don't have lift facility to crawl underneath my cars any more !! ) He is going to replace o rings, pressure relief valve, clean filters and replace oil etc from underneath in an attempt to cure the problem. If not it's out with the o/d !! but thought I would try this first. I am positive it's not the solenoid ( replaced for new less than twelve months ago ) and the issue only rears it head very very occasionally, hey oh the joys of owning a classic car ??!! at least it's never let me down in two years of motoring, famous last words !! thanks again guys. If anyone else has suggestions/ideas please shout............... Tony R.
  3. Hi Pete, Thanks for that but do you mean jack it up with the interior removed and extract from inside the car ?? If so I might just as well remove the gearbox as well from underneath?? if I have removed all the interior trim, gearbox tunnel cover etc etc........................ note: the slave cylinder has been replaced when the gearbox came out the first time. Tony R.
  4. Well, I never thought I would be back on the forum so soon !! For some time now I have had a problem which I couldn't make my mind up whether it was me or the car. On the odd occasion when pulling away in my Spitfire 1500 c/w with o/d I have experienced what I thought was the clutch slipping ??!! Some time ago my local classic car repairer had replaced both the main clutch and the cone clutch of the o/d (the o/d cone clutch had disintegrated !!) . Now I find I have the same intermittent problem . my question to all you far more knowledgeable people out there is..... is it possible to remove the o/d without removing the gearbox.............. aaaand is it likely that it is the "one way bearing " that's at fault as per the very good article by Canley Classics on the J type o/d unit............ answers on a postcard please (I'm joking ) in an attempt to avoid the possibility of stripping out all my new carpets, cabin trim, gearbox tunnel etc etc etc. Seriously, any help or advice would be welcome and I promise to renew my membership again this year !!
  5. Back reading so I would comment on the K & N's again.............I have K & N filters with sports exhaust and manifold, uprated the needles and springs and by all accounts have an extra 10/12 bhp ?? oh and by the way I'm 66 not a boy racer but do like efficiency............ have ordered the side valances because I like the idea of cooler engine/gearbox as it must push the air in that direction............... can you fir stub stacks inside pancake K & N's ?? I looked at them in the Moss book but couldn't decide.............thanks for your comments............keep 'em coming.
  6. Thanks guys for all the comments, I guess that there is no hard evidence regarding K & N filters but as someone says the valances were put there for a reason so I might just put them back, thanks again to all, Tony.
  7. Hi everybody, I'm coming to the end of a 2 year "renovation, tidy up, sort out, put right" of my previously abused and very unhappy 1981 1500 Spitfire. The car is now a really usable classic with various sensible upgrades ( better brakes, etc etc.) and I am really happy with it. Question 1 : should I re-instate the missing engine valances ?? I have read various articles suggesting leaving them off, others say they improve engine cooling as well as the obvious keeping the engine a little cleaner from muck thrown up. I do have the radiator ones fitted. Question 2: I am running with K & N filters and have read that all engines prefer "cold air" supply through the carbs hence the hoses on the original Triumph air filter, should I run some form of hose to supply the K & N's with cooler air ??I am trying to ensure the carbs run at their optimum re performance and fuel economy. Any comments would be welcome, thanks, Tony.
  8. If you are running with a full width rad and you have gone through the cooling system from top to bottom with new hoses, jubilee clips, thermostat, rad, given it a good flush, inspected water pump AND fitted electric fans you really shouldn't have any problems even with the hotter weather in spain. The main things is that the thermostat works !! At worst you can take it out and run without it. I took my 1500 to northern Spain for a holiday and had no overheating issues, have a great time !
  9. If you fancy a run out to Backwell near Clevedon south of Bristol there's a good classic car restorer/repairer called Classic Car Restorations run by Ian tel 01275 463489 you could give him a call. I have used him quiet a bit over the last twelve months including setting up my Spitfire 1500 after I upgraded the carb jets and springs following mild tuning works and conversion to unleaded, nice guy, might be a bit far out for you though.
  10. Thanks guys, The oil is quality 20/50 from Moss Bristol........... the gauge is a plastic piped type with an adaptor split at the oil pressure switch, levels are correct as I check regularly, I assume dipstick is original..............on last 3 oil changes it didn't take all 5 litres but I think it was pretty close so again assume oil amount correct, suction tube problem seems to be the place to go.................... unless anyone got any other ideas ?? Thanks for the replies so far..........................
  11. Hi everyone, Can anyone help me with a mystifying problem on my 1981 Spitfire 1500 ?? On start up the oil pressure light extinguishes and I get a healthy oil pressure around 90/100 psi. However when I pull away for the first time, on a slight bend or straight within the first 200/300 yards the pressure drops to zero and the oil light comes on. After a few heart stopping moments (5 to 10 seconds) the pressure recovers and I get no further problems. I have replaced the pressure relief valve and spring for new but can't think of any other reason why this happens, any ideas ?? Running oil pressure is 50 psi when hot down to 2 bar on tickover ? with no oil light.
  12. not with Mintex 1144 pads and drilled/grooved discs they don't...................what an improvement on the old fade and worrying feeling when braking hard or on long downhill stretch with standard set up.........you don't realize how brake systems wear gradually and lose their effectiveness.
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