Chris A

If I succeed I will if the second then I doubt I'll own up 🤐

I'm following this thread with interest as the speedo needle on my 13/60 has stopped moving at all. The mileage and oddometre are working so I have assumed that the problem is 'minor'. I am very reluctant to open the unit in case I do more damage and have been thinking of contacting a couple of local classic garage mechanics about it, but thanks to this thread I am beginning to think I could have a go (or not) . . .

In my 13/60 I have used the cheapo Classic Gold FGE150 (119) in stock I have a WIX 7213 ready for thgis year's oil change. Mann713/14 have been given the thumbs up by many. I change the oil and filter every year as a matter of course. Just check out a reputable source and go for whatever is on promotion at the time, as long as it fits of course.

All my bottles say 45° 🥃

I have spare rubber blades, it's the clip on the fixing that the arm slots into that has broken, so no option but to replace the whole unit. The risk of the blade being thrown of the arm as the wiper goes too and fro is slight I guess - the speed of the wipers is on the s l o w side. 😁

I don't think my wiper motor could cope with the extra load 🙄. No idea if 7mm arms are available here in any case, if I get really bored this afternoon I might check out my 2 usual suppliers

I'm looking at replacing the wiper blade arms on my 13/60 and my usual supplier has 2 references listed. If I put in 130036 it goes to part number GWB223 which look to have the bayonet socket mid way along the wiper arm. If I put in GWB 112 it goes to a version described as 'off centre' with the bayonet socket slighty above the centre i.e. the blade would sit lower on the screen. Both are described as 11" long and 5mm fitting. The version currently fitted seems to be the 130036/GWB223 type, which in the parked position just goes beyond the end of the screen. Is there a correct version or doesn't it really matter? If I was a real nerd then I'd go for the off centre option as they are all metal and look like the TEX ones rather than having a plastic fitting. Mind you the all metal ones are a massive 1€22 each more expensive. It's raining and I don't have anything better to do than ponder such a minor point.

Where did he fit it? I assume before the pump to stop muck getting to it. I have one of those cheapo plastic ones, works fine. I change it when the plastic starts to get a bit 'foggy'. If you loke bling then go for the chrome posh version.

Well it is almost Easter 😇

Great! Now we can get on with the thread drift 🙄

Exactly, no such thing as a dumb/stupid question, but there are dumb/stupid answers 😉 Sometimes what might at first seem to be a stupid answer can even be the right one.

I agree. Interestingly enough the 13/60 just has the metal tube on the filter housing that goes part way in the engine bay not to the side of the rad. Triumph cost cutting ?

Yes I know, but :- 1. Handbook wasn't in the car 2. I was too busy wiping the windscreen with a towel to clear the condensation to read it even if it was 3. Normally I have it set to the footwell and off, just using it on cool days with the roof down 4. The main reason : brain not working. 🙄

Last November I used my 13/60 convertible in a charity run and it was 'P' ing it down all day, so pulled the heater control knob out to open it up. No use at all! Several kilometres later I realised it might be better if I switched the fan on and directed the air to the windscreen rather than footwell. There was a real & surprising improvement, to be honest I was quite impressed with it. Should those comments be transferred to the 'Blond moments' thread???

You had better get reading then as by now you must have gone through all the previous stages . . . .

Are you saying you don't actually have a parts catalogue detailed enough to give that information? Shame on you Colin 😁

Good day, bad day. Good day because having cut the washer pipe after the pump and fitted the inline non return valve I now have windscreen washers again. A simple fix, maybe the bellows are on their way out but fine for now. I've saved the details of the electric kit options just in case. Bad day because I discovered the horns are fried. Remplacemnt ordered. To finish off the wash / wipe system I need to 'tweak' the wiper movement as they refuse to do a full sweep. Motor sounds ok so I will start with a general 'look see' inside the unit - I am sure I have notes somewhere about adjusting the park settings. Strangely my system seems to be a LHD set up, i.e. blades park over on the passenger side. Don't really need wipers though as it never rains in Normandy, the MOT man might want to try them out at the next visit. I'm positive he didn't do it last time as he didn't come and ask me how the wipers & washers operated Thanks to everyone for the input, all very useful

Yes it might but at least it didn't cost much. I'll just try a second after the pump, as I have one already

So. What you are saying is that the washer system is a load of balls... I've a spare inline non return valve which works so I think my next step will be to cut the pipe from the pump to the jets and fit it then retest. Maybe tomorrow as lawnmower is now in the hands of a professional as it just managed to do the grass today, even my wife could tell it wasn't running well, I've done everything I could other than hitting it with a mallet, which did become a serious possibility at one point.

There is a functioning non return valve in the bottle but I have no idea if there is anothert after the pump, will have a look in the next day or two. The washers did work, after a fashion, so I suspect the bellows or a second non return valve stuck open. If I go for the electric pump option no problems getting one here either (already located a good candidate) I'm not up to reworking the pump and wiper switch as above so will just add a press or switch to the dash, or under if I don't want it visible. Been looking for suitable pushes that sort of look ok. Like the one with the 'W' must do more research.

When I pump the system I do get a few drops at the jets which to me proves the system is basically ok. It did cross my mind that the bellows could well be the culprit but are they servicable and can the combined pump washer switch unit be opened easily?

Hi all, I suspect I'll have to replace my washer pump. The switch for the wipers works fine it is the pump part that is suffering. I've checked the non return valve is ok, there is no blockage in the system and air does pass. I even confirmed the pipe from the bottle to pump wasn't porous. The original part is 152461 which is, no surprise, not available (unless you know better). I am looking at fitting an electric pump and switch - keeping the rest of the system as it is. What have you used and any tips thanks.

Not only but also, wherever there is scale. Here it is widely used as a cleaner, I buy mine in the supermarket in the household cleaning section in 5 or 10 litre 'bidons' at either 12 or 14 percent, its called 'ménager' to distinguish it from the cooking version. If you want to be posh there are even versions with a perfume additive I think, but not sure, some owners of classics flush the car rad out with it - must check up on that as I will be cleaning out and replacing the coolant in my 13/60 this year.

I agree. I buy mine from a local car spares place that also supplies just about every garage in the area, no way are they going to supply fakes of anything

Are the cracks classed as a 'fail' or just an 'advisory' ?