Chris A

You are most probably right. I would be able to do it technically, as you say the wiring is quite simple really. The worst part is, as you know, working behind the dash. OK, so take dash out, dismantle everything . . Starting to put me off doing it now. 🤔 It would mean taking the car off the road for a while to do it and there is no way I want to lose any of the driving season so it would be a winter job which means a nice cosy garage . . .

It would be 🙄

I've been and investigated, with the following results. Firstly I fitted a wire to bypass the heater fan switch as I has given up the ghost as I thought. I used a wire rather than a volt meter so I could here the fan rather than having to look at the meter along with everything else. New switch on order. I confirmed the radio did not take its feed from the burnt wires. To do my test I put a spare battery on the brake pedal, switched the indicators on then turned the ignition on. Everything functioning also confirmed wipers working. Switched off the disconnected the burnt wires from the ignition switch, switched on again and the following did NOT function : Indicators, as Colin L said. Heater fan Oil pressure light Ignition light The theory did not stand up to the test. Switched off and went and had a strong coffee! It has crossed my mind that the other set of the live terminals don't do anything hence why some others have been 'rerouted'. I had also noticed that the two white wires going to the VS went to the same connector before going to the VS, so not easily possible to determine which was the live feed from the switch and which went to other items, the wires both went into the loom.. Plan B came into action, repair rather than replace. Done but not really happy about it, I prefer things properly done when ever possible. I wonder how much a professional would charge to completely sort out and put back to stock the wiring behind the dash, including reconnecting wires as they should be?

Wow! That is posh. Much more style than the black and white basic one in my handbook for the 13/60.

'In the land of the blind the one eyed man is king'. In other words you are the least worse. 😉

I'm saying nothing, I claim the right to remain silent. . .

No problem. I've enough reasons/excuses to check which wire powers what, including the radio, and the fact I suspect the fan switch a playing a joker card and intermittently working - which isn't helpful - so that is to be carefully looked into. Already had to change which connector used on the switch for the live some time ago as it played up.

If that is good enough for you them I shall follow your shining example and do the same.

Just thought of another reason to check what is connected to what. There is a radio I have never needed to see where the power is taken from, I don't even know if it is a permanent live. Nobody would have piggy backed it onto another wire would they, but there again those blue Scotchlocs that you love so much are there for some reason . . . * Why do people buy GT6s? From all accounts they are very hot inside, no boot space to talk of and now I learn that the space behind the dash is even tighter than on a Herald. Add to that even a Herald towers over them. . . 😁 I will admit that they do look 'OK'

Damn you Mr Lindsay! 😁 That was like telling me 'who done it' in a book I was about to read . . I had already consulted the wiring diagram and established the same short list but hadn't yet done the investigation, the fun bit. Anyway you have saved me a process and I now know that all I have to do is make up a replacement double wire with spade connectors one long enough to reach the VS the other all the way to the flasher unit. That is assuming of course that none of the other wires have been rerouted over the years and tacked onto the ones to be replaced. I think I will do the confirmation to be on the safe side all the same. Better safe than sorry.

I'm in the same position, sort of. I need to replace a couple of the white live feeds from the ignition switch they both originate in the same spade terminal, I know one wire goes to the voltage stabiliser but the other? I need to get my Sherlock Holmes hat and magnifying glass to investigate via a process of elimination. The job is down for later this week, the mental task of determining which wire goes where either direct or via other connections is ok, it is the physical contorsions necessary that truly will be a pain in the back! I too am going to pretend I didn't see the other mess . .

I'm too old to learn a new method

Nope! It was the norm until this year.

Good tasty bacon doesn't need anything else

I know all of us keep a whole load of spares 'in case' in the boot but i think you have gone a little too far . . .

They look as if they fit your criteria perfectly and very affordable as well

I too was working under the dashboard yesterday and spotted 3, maybe 4, clearly the 'norm' for an old Triumph.

My last Skoda had locking nuts for the wheels but when I collected the new one, back in 2017, and got it home I went through the boot and the 'tool kit' no locking nut remover. Went to the dealer and was told they don't fit them any more as just about every new car as alloys so people don't steal them and anyway thieves get round the locking nut system. Felt such a idiot, I hadn't even removed the plastic caps on the wheel nuts and seen there wasn't a locking nut.

I've not noticed any change on my office computer running Google Chrome nor on my pad using Android.

Sometimes the better option, but you never know until too late . . .

Only as reliable as the people that update them, any system is subject to human error. About a month ago I placed an order for some stuff all but 1 item in stock. The other was something they only bought in when an order was placed - this was made clear on the site - and a delivery date of 10 days later was given. After I placed the order I received a mail to say that their supplier was out of stock, ok happens, they asked if I wanted to wait 6 weeks for it to come in or accept that they sourced it elsewhere at a surcharge of 20€ ( their price was 53€) I said it wasn't urgent so would wait. They 'found' one with a another rival company and I got it within the week at no extra. that is good customer service. I know it was from a competitor as it has their name stamped into the metal base plate.

Deliberate marketing policy. You look at the very expensive ones, get over the shock and buy something a lot cheaper thinking you have bought a bargain only to find later the same was 1/2 the price everywhere else. 😁

Not even that good, in 1.00mm² they only had red or black and sold it only by the 'bobine' (reel) I am going to compromise and use some 1.00mm² white with brown trace I have in stock, close enough to original. Anyway it won't be seen as it will be with all the other stuff behind the dashboard 😁

Thanks for the replies. From what you say 0.5mm² would do, but that isn't as thick as what is there, unless of course the old wire has a much thicker insulation layer - that is very likely. Think I'll go for either a thin wall of 0.75mm² or 1.0mm² -the prices are hardly different and I only need a metre or 2 max. My usual supplier also does a thick wall at 0.65mm² (5.75a max) or 1.00mm² (8.75A max) both the same price. I'll see if the local car spares place does wire as well - the postal costs would be more than the cost of the wire and I don't need any other electrical bits (stocked up with my last order).

Right, where's my axe I'll nip out to the nearest forest and chop down a nice oak tree. . .