Chris A

I've just got back indoors after venturing behind the dash on my 13/60. 'The Land That Health & Safety and Good Working Practices Forgot'. Definitely a case of out of sight out of mind. The reason I was there is that,as I briefly mentioned on another thread (Hot weather?), on Monday the petrol & temp gauges dropped to zero for a short while before returning to normal then did it again and stayed there. The heater fan also didn't work. When I started to investigate I noticed that the oil pressure light didn't come on as well, however ign light did. I thought the most likely causes for all that were a bad connection between ignition switch and voltage stabiliser. When I unscrewed the ignition switch and popped it below the dash to look at it, lets say I got a bit of a surprise. At some point in the past, long past I would say, there was a severe short. A couple of the white wires that feed the gauges and oil light are well and truly fried! After making sure they were clear of any metal structure I turned the ignition on and low and behold there was light and the petrol gauge started to move, with a bit more jiggling the fan even started up - although after a couple of on/offs it refused. Temporary 'repair' carried out but of course I do need to replace the 2 sections of wire, so at long last the point of this posting: What size is the white wire that runs from the ignition switch to gauges & voltage stabiliser, please? It feels a bit thicker than any of the wires (3) I have in stock plus I don't have white. I also seem to have my full quota of Scotch locks under there as well so I'll have to resort to bullet or spade connectors instead. When I replace the burnt stuff I'll do another search for the cause of the fan problem. I'll need to remove the radio to give more 'elbow' room. Coffee time!

I've just got back indoors after venturing behind the dash on my 13/60. 'The Land That Health & Safety and Good Working Practices Forgot'. Definitely a case of out of sight out of mind. Like you I have to pluck up all my courage and be in top (for me) physical condition before I start. I won't hijack your thread about why I had to venture there, just pleased I got out alive like you. . .

I'm following this thread with interest as there is a slim chance I might have to replace the ignition switch so will need something. I had been thinking of old blunt chisel and medium sized mallet 😱 but a bit of wood and a couple of nails sounds far more sophisticated, also cheap & I have the bits.

I've just been doing a bit of a search in the expectation I'll need to replace the fan switch. I found several possible replacements and on this particular site they also suggested a bezel removal tool. https://www.datch.fr/fr/mini-mg-triumph-cle-decrou-dinterrupteur-bascule-p-67996.html

Back in the mid 90's I went to work, mid summer, went to start the car at lunch time nothing. The heat finished it off!

And not just when it's raining

I take exception to that 😉. I do know where the screen wash filler cap is on my modern, can't remember when I last checked it. I usually do it just before we go on holiday . . .

Yes, as both colin & i mentioned earlier, the book says the level should be 1" below the bottom of the filler neck. In the case of my system it has recently decided that this level is too high and wants it to be just at the top of the core tubes. Maybe just because the weather at present is exceptionally hot, later in the year will see if it returns to its' previous habit.

In that case the temperature at the moment must be 'relatively hot.

Does that mean 5 pints or 5 litres covers the daily recommendation?

Daily attention implies that Triumph knew the Herald would evacuate coolant. In my book is states the level is 1" below the bottom of the filler neck, easy to check by sticking a thumb in the filler neck.

Good reply to Pete L, we need to humour him he's getting on a bit and his memory isn't what it was. While I'm here I gather that Aldi chargers are quite cheap, can't remember where I read it though . . . I've already left....

Interesting point. The level drops to just show the tops of the rad cores, I think the heater is above that level but will try and remember to check.

Yes I get the point and would agree but mine does suck it back up. When I put the temporary system in I added a small quantity of coolant to the bottle so the pipe was immersed in it. After a good run I checked the bottle straight away and the level had gone up. When the car was fully cold I looked again and most of the liquid had disappeared. Could it have evaporated I asked myself? I removed the rad cap ant the coolant level was up to the base of the cap - I never fill it that high. Removed the excess liquid before I went off for the weekend with the car. Got back yesterday and there was coolant in the bottle, before setting off it was virtually empty. I have to admit I haven't confirmed since that it has been sucked back in again, will do that in the next couple of days as I'm taking it to a meeting Thursday (July 14th). Postie arrived this pm with a nice selection box of bits I ordered last week, in it (among other bits) there is a nice big bottle, top and shiny bracket. I think it is Vitesse stuff. All the 3 caps I have have one.

Only on days when things haven't gone to plan. Oh, things never go to plan . .

At all temperatures I drink wine & whisk(e)y. When temperatures get above 20°C I drink beer, above 25°C Pastis with water & ice, above 30°C (like now), water. I hate temperatures above 30°C 😁

Not just oil. Recently my 13/60 has decided to expel more coolant than normal via the rad cap, in the past if I overfilled it would pee the excess out when it got hot. Lately it has decided it only wants the coolant level upto the top of the fins and no more. I initially worried that a hose was leaking, hole in rad . . . .but concluded it was via the overflow. Rigged up a temporary overflow bottle so it now pushes it out when hot and sucks it back when it cools. Taken delivery a few minutes ago of a delivery of bits including a proper overflow bottle & bracket. I bet that once I fit it the car will not use it and decide to leak somewhere else . . I know 13/60 aren't supposed to have an overflow bottle but the system functions with one. The car hasn't been overheating, even in the current weather. They are sneaky these Triumphs!

It's that serious then. Not only read the instructions but admitted it ! My fingers and toes all crossed for you 🤪

So true! Plus your wallet will thank you as well . .

You're not driving it hard enough! 😁

👍

Not in the noisy car I assume. Hope you can fit it easily without too many naughty words!

I don't have any high tech stuff, I just zoomed in on the photo and spotted the steering wheels in the window and remembered seeing the pump when I went to buy a steering wheel. . . Just kidding.

Yes I think you are right, for some weird form of motor that relies on compression ignition. Maybe the fact that the pump has a label that reads Diesel is a clue 😃

I had the good fortune to learn to drive in a 13/60 back in 1970, so RWD, no power brakes or power steering was the norm . .Ok there were a few FWD cars around then