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dave.vitesse

TSSC AO
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Everything posted by dave.vitesse

  1. I can remember someone running the starter motor from 24 volts to get more speed in an effort to get the pressure up. As it's likely to burn out the starter motor, don't try this at home! Dave
  2. Both late Vitesse 6 (1600 )and 2 Litre (Mk1) had a satin black coloured air filter box. The 2 Litre Mk2 had a silver coloured air filter box. Dave
  3. For piece of mind change the filter for a different make and it should also eliminate it from the equation. Though as I say this is a very old chestnut with both the small 4 and the 6 cylinder engines. The problem would occur with the original oil filter set-up on the 6 cylinder engines and is the pump not priming due to an air lock. As said take the plugs out and run the engine on the starter motor, it doesn't always work but must be worth a try. Make sure you fill the oil filter with oil, this can be a slow process as you have to wait for the air to bleed out the filter. It's hart stopping when you first have this happen to you. Dave
  4. It may well be the make of filter causing the problem in this case. However, after some 55 years of both the 4 and 6 cylinder engines this was/is a common problem. This was with both Stanpart and Unipart filters. Dave
  5. Agreed, normally the the first method works. i.e Run for 10 secs, then turn off. Leave for 2 secs then re-start. Whereas priming the oil pump is useful on a re-built engine. Dave
  6. This quite often happen after an oil change. I agree with Pete the cause being an air lock. Start the engine run for around 10 secs, then turn off and wait a couple of secs. Now start again. Normally the oil pressures will then rise. If in doubt remove the dizzy, and drive cog and pour some oil into the top of the pump drive. The turn the oil pump drive several times. After that reassemble and start engine. Dave
  7. You also need the backplate for a Vitesse/GT6 engine. Dave
  8. From engine number HB16302, late 1963, the combustion chambers were reshaped in the cylinder head to improve the combustion. This was similar to the work carried out on the Vanguard Six engine prior to it being fitted into the Triumph 2000 Saloon. Dave
  9. I used a Triumph as an everyday car up to 5 years ago, up to then it was 50 years of use. 100,000's of miles covered and totally reliable. Believe me in some of the cold winters and hot summers we used to get you wouldn't want to use an unreliable car. Agree with Pete, also look at the 13/60 Herald. Dave
  10. Yes I have used one on a Vitesse and it compared very well with the Rotoflex. Also used it on a Herald with very good results. Though the ground clearance is a consideration. Dave
  11. Under normal road use the close circuit system will work OK. The only time the closed circuit is a problem in road use is if the engine is badly worn and producing a high level of fumes internally. In the case of a highly tuned engine used on the track then many go for the open circuit system with a catcher tank which works OK. However, if you are worried about the rocker cover breather on the open circuit system then fit either an early 2000 saloon or Vitesse 6, 1600, rocker cover with a breather oil filler cap. So - 1/ Is this road use or track use. 2/ Is the engine badly worn. Those are the questions you should ask yourself. Dave
  12. +1 Stick with the standard PCV set-up. No sump breather. If you have a sump breather and the PCV because the breather allows air into the engine both air and fumes will be sucked through the engine into the inlet manifold. The whole points of the closed circuit system is that there is no through path. The open circuit system works by air entering the engine through the sump breather and out through the rocker box breather. Dave
  13. I can confirm the 980 turns/mile is for the 3.27 diff. The speedo for the 3.89 is 1152 turns/mile. In others words you have the wrong speedo. The ref number should have 1152 on it's end. Dave
  14. I agree it's how the ECU processes the info. We are getting new owners comparing their classic with a modern car. It's right they ask the questions are their could be something wrong. I was recently asked why the electrical system on 1950/60's cars was so basic and a poor design. My reply was, it wasn't if you compare it with cars of the 1920/30's, I think that goes for most of the car. Technology and social views march on with time. I am glad we get these questions because it make us think just how thing do work and what is normal in our classic cars. Dave
  15. Hello Peter, Something in the back of my memory says that maybe original. But I have only ever known the return spring connected to the sidescreen. Another misery to dig into, which is always good. Thanks, Dave
  16. Peter T, That's interesting, what years is your MK2 as it sounds original. As was the louvre mounting. Sorry for the anorak question. Dave
  17. It fits from the throttle cable arm to the engine side screen with an extending wire. It hooks around the vent louvres. Keep it away from the starter electrics in the same area. I took a different approach, see picture. Dave
  18. The paint code 35 colour is Olive. The commission plate number will be near the engine number but not identical. This is because more engines were produced than cars for spares etc. On a Vitesse 6 both the body and engine will be have a prefix of HB. Your commission number looks as it may have been built late 1965, early 1966. Dave
  19. If your car is a standard Spitfire then the standard brakes should work well. It's a light car and the standard front 9" disc are effective. The Heralds if a standard car also are adequate for road use. GT6 and Vitesse brakes work well for road use but need just a bit more push on the brake pedal as they are larger overall. TR2-6 on standard cars are adequate for road used. TR7 and maybe Dolomite Sprint brakes can be a worry. Dave
  20. Most cooling system on classic cars don't stick to the a given figure or point as do most of the modern cars. The ambient, air, temperature has a great effect on the running temperature of the engine. The engine runs cooler on a cold day and hotter on a hot day. The 82C is the standard and 88C the winter stat. The point of using the 82C is it allows for this change or swing in ambient temperature. However, in the winter with the much lower ambient temperatures this becomes more difficult and the engine tends to run too cool. Hence the use of the 88C. Dave
  21. The petrol cap is said to have a small breath in it. But as John suggested I added a pipe and a one-way valve. The pipe came out through the floor. Dave
  22. On the top of the fuel tank there is a breather pipe. On the UK cars this is blanked off with a rubber cap. Over time the cap fails to seal and allows the petrol fumes to escape. Dave
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