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trigolf

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trigolf last won the day on October 23 2023

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  1. Most older car manuals state that a sliding joint should be fitted at GB end. I did try fitting the prop that way,but it made no difference to vibration and prevents you from being able to grease the slider easily, so I refitted it at diff end. All Truimph manuals state it should be fitted at diff end ( probably just for greasing)🤔
  2. That looks like a big welding project! With respect, have you considered trying to find another chassis in better condition?
  3. I too had pondered from time to time about changed driveline angles causing vibration. It's been a very long time since I fitted the car with a J type o/d and I can't honestly remember whether the vibration only became noticeable after the conversion. Trouble is, back then, I just wanted to use the car all the time! What would be interesting is if we could compare a standard D type installation rear mounting height, compared to the J type fit?🤔
  4. Hence why I took the car to Vibration Free, Iain!
  5. The Churchill 3 part tool is very rare. I've never even seen one at an autojumble. I think you'll be very lucky to even find a Triumph 'garage' with one. There used to be a guy - Richard Briscoe? who manufactured the spacers and shims, who had the actual tool and offered a service setting endfloat correctly but not sure if he still does. There is an alternative Diy method explained on Canley Classics website. Check out the their Technical Archive - Rear End Noises.
  6. I've just carried out the exact same mod on my Vit wiper switch. Keeps it looking original🙂 Gav
  7. Hi Ian, Leccy fan only. It's a very tight squeeze with a Kenlowe, which still works fine. Even changing the fan belt is chalIenging! I would wary about replacing it with something newer, without seeing it fitted to a Vit. How many times have you been told ' oh yes it will fit', when clearly it won't! I still don't think Revotec have produced a proper kit ( with mounts) to fit a Vit yet. I've always had a manual o'ride switch, which has proved useful. Gav
  8. Ian, I'm revisiting the elec fan installation that I did 35 yrs ago. I followed the Kenlowe instructions at the time. They didn't include a relay in the kit, which I thought was a bit strange at the time. Anyway......time went on and I got engrossed in all the other jobs that needed doing, so sort of forgot about it! I'm completely rewiring the fit to include a relay and uprated wiring. 🙂
  9. Hi Ian, No. Label has long gone. I've tried 'tinternet, but can't find a spec.
  10. Evening all, Does anyone happen to know what the current draw on a) start up and b) running condition for a Kenlowe Unifan is please? I can't measure same on my mulitmeter as it only has a max 10A range and I suspect the it'll be higher than that!🤔
  11. That looks like a pretty common Lucas 17ACR alternator that has either been reconditioned and or reboxed as Wood. It'll power a radio + lights etc fine. I swapped my dynamo for a Lucas ACR17 on my Vit. You'll either need an alternator mounting bracket from a Spit 4+ tensioner or you can adapt the dynamo bracket. As Wagger says you might have to swap the pulley.
  12. Hi Steve, I happened to be in the garage today and had another look at the horn mounting on my Vit. I was incorrect in thinking that the horns bolt direct to the bracket on the bonnet frame. See pic. It might help. Gav
  13. I've got those on my Vit bonnet frame. IIRC the horns are bolted to them.
  14. As Peter T says even when all parts are def. correct spec, assembling the wishbone to the v link is very tight, not helped by the dirt shields tilting as they are 'persuaded' onto the v link. Another pair of hands helps, but if all else fails - how about putting a nylon tyrap through both wishbone legs to hold the shields in place until you at least manage to get them started and wedged in a bit. Then cut the tyraps off before tapping into place to line the bolt holes up? Just an idea...
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