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trigolf

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Everything posted by trigolf

  1. Hi Chris. I recently had the same prob on my Vit washer pump ( i.e. wipers work, but pump does'nt). I checked all the obvious - jets, pipes,non return valve etc and concluded it was the pump innards. I decided to convert to an electric pump, but wanted to keep the original wiper switch. So I have converted the pump part of the switch to take a momentary ( non latching) push button. It's a starter switch that I got from Car Builder Solutions. I cut open the plastic end of the pump and discarded it. A suitable sized penny washer was then Araldited in its place, with the starter button mounted through it ( it looks exactly like Paul H 's second pic of s/h Vit dashboard rear view. The 'bellows' inside the pump look like a thick rubber thimble, if it was like mine. I decided to leave the rubber thimble in place, as it helps return the push button to it's off state. A standard ' generic' 12v washer pump is wired to the switch and plumbed into the pipework. It all works well and looks original on the dash.
  2. Most older car manuals state that a sliding joint should be fitted at GB end. I did try fitting the prop that way,but it made no difference to vibration and prevents you from being able to grease the slider easily, so I refitted it at diff end. All Truimph manuals state it should be fitted at diff end ( probably just for greasing)πŸ€”
  3. That looks like a big welding project! With respect, have you considered trying to find another chassis in better condition?
  4. I too had pondered from time to time about changed driveline angles causing vibration. It's been a very long time since I fitted the car with a J type o/d and I can't honestly remember whether the vibration only became noticeable after the conversion. Trouble is, back then, I just wanted to use the car all the time! What would be interesting is if we could compare a standard D type installation rear mounting height, compared to the J type fit?πŸ€”
  5. Hence why I took the car to Vibration Free, Iain!
  6. The Churchill 3 part tool is very rare. I've never even seen one at an autojumble. I think you'll be very lucky to even find a Triumph 'garage' with one. There used to be a guy - Richard Briscoe? who manufactured the spacers and shims, who had the actual tool and offered a service setting endfloat correctly but not sure if he still does. There is an alternative Diy method explained on Canley Classics website. Check out the their Technical Archive - Rear End Noises.
  7. I've just carried out the exact same mod on my Vit wiper switch. Keeps it looking originalπŸ™‚ Gav
  8. Hi Ian, Leccy fan only. It's a very tight squeeze with a Kenlowe, which still works fine. Even changing the fan belt is chalIenging! I would wary about replacing it with something newer, without seeing it fitted to a Vit. How many times have you been told ' oh yes it will fit', when clearly it won't! I still don't think Revotec have produced a proper kit ( with mounts) to fit a Vit yet. I've always had a manual o'ride switch, which has proved useful. Gav
  9. Ian, I'm revisiting the elec fan installation that I did 35 yrs ago. I followed the Kenlowe instructions at the time. They didn't include a relay in the kit, which I thought was a bit strange at the time. Anyway......time went on and I got engrossed in all the other jobs that needed doing, so sort of forgot about it! I'm completely rewiring the fit to include a relay and uprated wiring. πŸ™‚
  10. Hi Ian, No. Label has long gone. I've tried 'tinternet, but can't find a spec.
  11. Evening all, Does anyone happen to know what the current draw on a) start up and b) running condition for a Kenlowe Unifan is please? I can't measure same on my mulitmeter as it only has a max 10A range and I suspect the it'll be higher than that!πŸ€”
  12. That looks like a pretty common Lucas 17ACR alternator that has either been reconditioned and or reboxed as Wood. It'll power a radio + lights etc fine. I swapped my dynamo for a Lucas ACR17 on my Vit. You'll either need an alternator mounting bracket from a Spit 4+ tensioner or you can adapt the dynamo bracket. As Wagger says you might have to swap the pulley.
  13. Hi Steve, I happened to be in the garage today and had another look at the horn mounting on my Vit. I was incorrect in thinking that the horns bolt direct to the bracket on the bonnet frame. See pic. It might help. Gav
  14. I've got those on my Vit bonnet frame. IIRC the horns are bolted to them.
  15. As Peter T says even when all parts are def. correct spec, assembling the wishbone to the v link is very tight, not helped by the dirt shields tilting as they are 'persuaded' onto the v link. Another pair of hands helps, but if all else fails - how about putting a nylon tyrap through both wishbone legs to hold the shields in place until you at least manage to get them started and wedged in a bit. Then cut the tyraps off before tapping into place to line the bolt holes up? Just an idea...
  16. Don't forget that the trunnion bolt is torqued up to 55-60lbs ft, so the rubber seals will compress a bit over time. I would be wary of grinding any metal off.
  17. Re: the Spitfire camber angle, you are probably comparing the Herald (swing axle )suspension, where the spring was rigidly bolted atop the diff, compared to the later Spitfire IV or 1500 model which had a 'swing spring' ,where basically the spring pivoted slightly via a central pivot point box atop the diff. This was BL's attempt to reduce excessive camber angles and improve roadholding. As a simple device it works well. You can swap a swing spring into a Spit 1,2,or 3 if desired. Thats why most later Spits show a bit of negative camber at the rear wheels -top of wheel leans in slightly
  18. Sounds like the curse of poor quality pattern parts again!😟. I've still got genuine Leyland plastic bushes, rubber seals and metal water shields and even with those it's all a tight fit, hence why I put the v link upside down in the vice and tap the wishbone onto it. If you're not too bothered about originality you can fit hard red poly bushes instead and do away with the 3 part bush arrangement. Gav
  19. Pete, re the wishbone not fitting the v link. I seem to recall I had the same prob years ago. With the trunnion bushes and dirt shields in place , it's always a tight fit to slip the v link in. Yet more grease on the dirt shield faces helps, together with some gentle persusion with a plastic faced hammer. Once again, a suitable sized tapered drift or screwdriver will help get the holes to line up. If it still won't fit, you could try placing a small scissor jack, a Herald one is ideal, between the wishbone arms and VERY carefully 'easing' the gap v slightly. Gav
  20. I always attach the wishbone to the v link first, before trying to lift v link up to meet the spring eye. You should have the spring lifted up until its roughly parallel with the ground. As the spring flattens out the eye describes an arc. The donut will try and twist the v link. The UJ flange does not slide on the spline of the driveshaft ( unless you have a CV conversion). You then have to wrestle the v link legs over the spring eye ( a little rubber grease on the bush helps) and when the bolt hole is lined up push the spring eye bolt in. I use a tapered drift to initially connect the v link to the spring eye. Then push/tap bolt in from opposite end and the drift falls out. It's a pig of a job as the donut has a life of it's own. 4 hands help too.πŸ™‚
  21. I'd like to keep the original type 3 rail box (uprated+J type) for as long as practical. But we all know that NOS parts are largely made of unobtanium nowadays and most repro stuff is made of chocolate. Some people are already converting to T9 boxes, but I understand that core T9 units are now in short supply due demand and presumably the same problem will arise with NOS parts? I guess all Gbox rebuilders are hoarding their remaining spares. Wouldn't it be nice for someone to stumble across a huge stash of NOS parts in some long forgotten warehouse somewhere? πŸ€”πŸ™‚ Gav
  22. Very good point Richard. Never thought of that! You're probably correct.
  23. Rimmers supply a non-original style vented cap,as fitted to the ali rocker covers.
  24. Hmmm, they are all sounding like Triggers broom nowadays!
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