trigolf
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Everything posted by trigolf
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I had the same leak last year after the very cold snap. I'd changed the oil and spin on filter during the previous summer. Everything was oil tight until the very cold snap. I found that I could nip the filter up ( by hand), which sealed the leak. It's been fine since. I can only think that the filter sealing ring had shrunk during the very cold snap?
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Looks immaculate, nice colour too! I see it's fitted with a stainless exhaust system, which from what I can see in the pics looks like the correct pattern for a 2L Mk1. No criticism implied, but the rear silencer appears to be fitted 90 deg to normal? If so, surely, the tailpipe is poking out, at a funny angle. Or is it a non-standard box?
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It goes in a centrifuge and then the filtered remains turn up as bargain engine oil in your local cheapo shop - possibly????!😄
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I stand corrected! I wonder why Gunson deleted it?
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Gunson still sell an updated version of their multipurpose cap. However some users report that its hard to get a good seal. So modifying an original Girling cap is prob still the best solution? What's puzzling is why Gunson didn't do a suitable size cap in their kit years ago? After all, there must have been loads of BL cars etc that used the same size Master Cylinder?
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If you are talking about Rostyle wheel trims (mk 2 vit, gt6mk2), the supplied tool kit should have a smallish tyre lever which had a cranked end. Insert cranked end through one of the trim holes, not the edge, and lever. Trim should pop off.
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Steve, you might find you will need extra fibre washers or O ring to get good seal on the pipe connector that you fit to your drilled cap. IIRC it's because the Girling cap is slightly convex shape and the Gunson lids are flat top, so easier to seal. As already mentioned- pressurise first without fluid and check for air leaks!
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If your using the Ezibleed, reduce the tyre pressure to about 15-20psi. Too much pressure will result in fluid leaks! It works fine if you follow the instructions properly. I also discovered the kit of caps didn't have one suitable for the Vit. I modified an old MC cap to fit.
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At the risk of thread drift......many years ago, I used to use a Peco Track Cleaning rubber( stop sniggering at the back!)🙂
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Well, I'm glad its not just me having a motovational crisis at the moment!
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Paul, do you mean Comma DOT 5.1, rather than DOT 5? I think I'm right that they are not the same. DOT 5.1 is synthetic, but not silicone.
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If it was me, I would slosh loads of waxoil down the insides before fitting and a bit of copperslip on the captive nut. Saves having to grind the bolt head off, if removing it years later. Ask me how I know!
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If you've got a super strong magnet,try getting as close as you can to bellhousing base- chances are its sitting at the bottom already. Drag your magnet slowly around the outside of b/housing. Listen very carefully. If you're lucky, you might hear a 'click' as the washer is attacted to the magnet thro the alloy. If so slowly 'drag' the magnet back up to the hole in the housing. Its worth a try. Gav
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Did exactly the same on my Vit years ago. It would probably have been ok left in situ, but I could'nt stop fretting about what if... Being a steel washer I managed to drag it with a strong magnet up the side of the alloy bell housing and retreived it. As Pete says, if stainless, magnet prob won't work.
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Erm,you could be right Gary! Gav
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I seem to recall thats its 'American Maple' ?...
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Herald 1200 Speedometer Removal - Tips & Tricks !?!
trigolf replied to Colin's topic in Electrical System
I know its a bit late now, but having the same amount of garage space to work in, whilst replacing the revcounter cable on my Vit, I managed to disconnect all connections using an old compact mirror ( donated by SHMBO) and a magnetic work light whilst sitting in the drivers seat. Much more comfortable! -
I'm sure on my 13/60 that the hessian was fully visible in the boot. The car was in original condition when I owned it.
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I've used Automec silicon fluid for twenty years with no problems. However, when I changed over from DOT 3/4 I replaced all the seals and flushed the entire pipe runs with meths, just to be sure.
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Evening all, a quick line for the Vitesse nerds (like me)! Whilst channel surfing tonight, including Talking Pictures, I spotted a white Vit convertible, with two nuns in it! It was being held up by Steptoes cart, before pulling out and passing. I managed to register some of the reg...SUC....C, so I presume it was a 1600. I wonder if it it's survived? I'll get my coat now... Gav
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I like to rope the diff onto the jack,with a tiny bit of slack allowed. Don't want to drop it on the floor, or more importantly, you!😉
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Iain, I also have a cv conversion fitted now. My method works with either cv shafts or donuts. With my method, using blocks, you are keeping the spring in its fitted posn. You then remove the spring to diff mounting studs and then the diff mounting bolts and drop the diff on the trolleyjack. It saves messing about with spring lifter bars etc and minimises dismantling.
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Be careful, with the pinion nut. If it has a split pin fitted, the diff has solid spacer/shims fitted to set the preload. If the pinion nut is hidden under a metal cap, be very careful. This indicates that a collapsible spacer is fitted. If thats the case record the torque fig reqd to undo it, and then retorque to exactly same fig.
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Iain, you can replace the pinion seal with the diff in situ,or conversly the output shaft seals once the driveshaft is out of the way. If the diff has to come out,you can take it out without removing the spring, as you have a Mk 2 rotoflex chassis. Check out my method posted 18th June 2018 - Diff removal ( Trigolf). Sorry, doing this reply on my phone. Cant' work out how to copy on small screen! Trigolf
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I'd also check your top shock bushes, in the centre of the top spring pan. Years ago I had some Spax shocks and the NS top Bush wore out very quickly. This caused the car to try and dive into the hedge, particularly under braking. When I eventually found the problem, the whole shock was flopping about!
