trigolf

I wonder if PO had siezed bolts previously, and decided to cut slots to get penetrating oil in, in the future?🤔

Evening all. Once again,the curse of poor quality rubber rears it's head.! Who supplies original top quality replacement track rod end and top ball joint boots? I fitted club supplied ' top quality' balljoints during lockdown and a few hundred miles later one is split already. Grrr....!

You could try Armor Oil? It's an American product designed for plastic and rubber trim and supposedly protects trim from UV exposure. I've used it on my Golf rubber trim and think it works, providing the rubber is in good nick to start with. Obviously it won't restore trim but should help stop it ageing any more from UV.

I think the colour shade is correct Johnny, it states 'Cherry' on the old logbook.

There also appears to be some overspray inside the boot behind the seal. New rear valence, filler repair or what??? For a 50k mile car the paint does look very flat and to me looks like a blowover rather than original?

I've got a Mk 2 and retrofitted a Mk 1 grill, as I prefer the early look. I have'nt noticed any difference in temp gauge indication. I have had a Kenlowe fan fitted for years, but even with that going the temp goes up toward the red when stuck in traffic. I think the block, heater and rad are pretty clean, as clear water runs out when back flushed. I suspect the main problem on the Vit is the close fitting chassis rails and bonnet stop the hot air getting out. They should have fitted louvres, like the GT6. I wonder if there's any improvement if you removed the side valances as an experiment?

Erm, I'm confused now. I thought Bonnie died in the car with Clyde due to an extreme 'overdose' of lead projectiles, even if she did have a gammy leg by then!?🤔

I do wonder how long the various suspension bushes will last with all that extra weight of batteries...?

Simple answer - Yes! Either a jubilee clip or original wire type clip, or nowdays often a large plastic 'tyrap' cable tie. Otherwise all sorts of undesirable muck will get into the steering rack!

I suspect most, if not all, people who go down the conversion route have no intention of keeping the original engine,gbox etc, otherwise why bother converting??

I personally believe that converting any classic car is tearing the heart and soul of the car out. I don't care that once converted they are much faster and silent. To me, they have all the charisma of a washing machine. As for an electric Vitesse.....NO!!!😡

This my fit. There's just room with a Girling servo.

I'm part way through the same prop vibration issue investigation on my Vit. A brand new prop reduced vibration, but I also noticed an improvement after swapping the wheels around ( original fronts to rear). So a wheel rebalance is worth trying intially. I have also discovered a specialist company near Bicester- Vibration Free- that specialise in all aspects of vehicle vibration elimination.(engine and transmission). Speaking to their boss (Steve), I have confirmed that they routinely balance props on the car. It's not cheap (what is nowadays), however, I think much safer and quicker than pratting about with jubilee clips under the car!

I'm pretty sure that this was sold earlier in the year or late last year through Matthewsons auction. I remember Derek inspecting it pre-sale and commenting on how thin the paint was on the top edges of the doors - " typical British Leyland" was his comment!

Ok, thanks gents. I had also reasoned that garage ramps and lifts are obviously level and that's what reference they use, but thought I'd confirm!

Ok, over the years I have either topped up or refilled the gearbox/od. As my garage floor slopes down, I've always set the car up on stands to be level, using the sill treadplate as a spirit level reference point. Today I was doing a routine oil level check and it occurred to me that even if the car is set level, the gearbox mounting is not close to being level. If I set for 'level' using the gbox top face, there is a marked difference between that and the chassis, which makes quite a difference in oil level when topping up, until oil stops running out. I've never really thought about this before, but which is correct?🤔

Double sided tape to hold hinge in posn until bolts theaded?

Another what if thought... Have you replaced the condenser to eliminate it?

Am I right in thinking that in the early days of alternators you had to disconnect the alternator when welding to avoid damage to the diodes in it? Or is it dynamo fitted? Just a thought.

Yes, understand that Pete, but if they had fitted side rails that sat on top of the glass as per Herald/Vit it would'nt be an issue!

That's very interesting that Roots used Velcro as standard. I've often thought of trying that myself, as the hood design is a bit crap, although not as bad as Spits and TR's, which just funnels all the rain down the inside of the windows. I've never understood the 'logic' of that...

It's a paler colour than copper and you can get it in roll form.

Rather than copper, you could use Kunifer ( Cupro Nickel) pipe, which does'nt suffer from work hardening like copper.

Afternoon all. Just a quick line to report back, as requested. I emailed Alasdair(boss man) and described the intermittent 'twitch' symptom and large amount of free play in both inner and outer joints. Although I bought them from Rimmers in 2018, he did not even quibble and said they would repair or replace at no charge. He was surprised how much play there was in both joints. Today I have recieved a replacement shaft with no discernable play in either joint. Even though I had the problem, I was impressed at his attitude and response to the issue - a refreshing change in todays world!

Lots of classic Ferraris have vertical oil filters...