Andrew Palmer

Thanks everyone!

Last question! ... would it be even better to get this UNF kit?? https://www.workshopping.co.uk/product/helicoil-type-unf-thread-repair-kit-5/16unf-x-24tpi-with-15-d-thread-inserts/VCOILK5-16UNF/

That's great thanks Pete. I take what you say about the torque - the threads were a bit dodgy and then I mullered them by overdoing it. Think I read the wrong line in the list of torques in the Haynes manual!

Thanks Pete!

Thanks all. Clive, I've never done the helicoil thing and don't have the gear. Do you reckon it woudl be easier than Pete's suggestion? ... if so, can you recommend a kit? Thanks.

Hello everyone. I need to replace my gearbox top cover (because the threads are stripped in the stud holes and I can't torque down the gear lever remote housing). So, I've got a used top cover and I'm about to transfer the gear selector shafts/selectors across. Only, I've just noticed that the 'new' top cover is missing the side plug that seals off the selector shaft interlock hole (part 107099). None of the usual suppliers have this plug, and the one in my old top cover is completely stuck! Any ideas on how to get it out?! Cheers. Andrew

Hi Richard, Thanks so much for this info. The new harness I got from Rimmers has the white and brown wires taped together and both long enough to reach the ignition terminals, so I figure they meant for both to go through the bulkhead. The current brown OD wire is piggybacked at the solenoid. So, all in all, I reckon I'll try and do the job properly and pass the wires through to the ignition terminals. Thanks again.

Hi everyone. I am just fitting wiring for my D-type overdrive. According to the wiring diagram, the brown wire should go to ignition terminal 2 and the white wire should go to ignition terminal 3. On my car, the current set up is this: the brown piggybacks on the brown at the solenoid and the white piggybacks on the white at the ballast resistor. Is that just as good? -- And, if not, where do I take the brown and white wires through the bulkhead? Thanks. Andrew

Many thanks for the guidance!

Dear all, I have just opend up my Spitfire's wiper motor - the little gearbox is fairly packed with grease. Is this right? According to the manual, you're supposed to lubricate the crankpin and the crosshead end of the connecting rod only. A related query: the manual specifies Shell Turbo 41 oil for the crankpin and Ragosine Listate grease for the connecting rod. Neither is available now. I've read that engine oil will do fine for the crankpin and white lithium grease spray for the connecting rod. What do you think? Many thanks!

I agree! I saw the plastic bowls on the Rimmer website and thought ... nah! Spending a happy Sunday with wire brush and Kurust!

Excellent, thanks!

Hi all. A quick question: I took apart my headlamps last week and found that the inner and outer bowls are pretty rusty. Is it a good idea to paint them - and, if so, does the assembly get too hot for regular paint when the lamps are on? Thanks.

I've cheated and put a sticker plate on the front of the bonnet. It's not strictly legal but I have not been stopped are faced any awkward questions in six years. Cheers, Andrew

Thanks Pete — I'm glad to learn it's not just me!

I've just installed two shiny new door handles and all is fine ... except that the link assembly which connects the lock barrel to the lever on the rear of the door lock mechanism is presenting some problems. The Moss Europe website shows the link - see the attached pic. First off, it’s virtually impossible to attach the split pin correctly – you have to open it up to fit around the lever, but then it’s very difficult to get it through the two holes in the link assembly’s bracket. This is so hard to do, I wonder if the Moss diagram is incorrect. That said, I used a Dremel to enlarge the eye of the split pin, so I could insert it into the bendy link bracket first and then slide it onto the lever. This worked quite well – but with the link connected in this way, the door handle would no longer work because the position of the lock lever is a few millimetres too high, making the link assembly push the handle mechanism into a position where it will no longer un-latch the latch. I could make the thing work by fabricating a bit of metal to replace the bracket-and-split-pin arrangement, but I’d rather find out why it’s been designed in this weird way, and get it to work as intended! Does anyone have any advice? Many thanks.

Thanks one and all for the sympathy and the advice!

Some so-and-so has just broken into my garage and swiped my tool chest! It wasn't a very expensive one but I had added various bits and bobs over the years - and of course, I have no record of what they all were. Still, every cloud has a silver lining - I am now in the market for a shiny new tool kit. I wondered if any members could recommend recently-purchased tool chests/kits (maybe you got one for Xmas?) for the amateur fettler. Thanks.