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Roger

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Everything posted by Roger

  1. Thanks for all suggestions! I found the problem. I adjusted valve clearance by the book but apparently I did not torque one of the locknuts properly. Valve No 2 had a clearance of about one centimeter, and the locknut was lying on the cylinder head. Runs smooth and quiet now (well, quiet as a Triumph engine....). I had a narrow window of opportunity to test drive without snow at the moment, it will soon get cold again. Happy days!
  2. Just a short follw-up on my previous posts about lack of power and valve timing. The valve timing was indeed way out with lack of power as a result. And it was not one or two teeth out, it was much more than that. I estimate that the valve timing was at least 7-8 teeth wrong. I can not for my life understand that the engine even started and run at all. I took it for a short run in Mariehamn today, my son took a short video from back seat. Unfortunately there is an annoying metallic clattering from the engine, sounds like a very worn bearing. I will adjust the valves tonight but I doubt that it is the root cause. Not sure if you can hear the knocking noice from the engine, but let me know if you know what it is 🙂 434261799_7794974080513656_6942944678083847665_n.mp4
  3. I need some advice from the brain thrust again… I noticed that new ”Stanpart” crown wheels and pinions are available. Not sure if this is a new thing or if they have been available for a long time? I have been trying to source a 3,63:1 Spitfire 1500 diff for my Vitesse in Sweden for a long time, but no joy. As some of you might know by now, shipping costs are an issue for me when buying second hand parts. It’s a long way to the Åland Island. I have two diffs in my possession. One 4,11:1 from my 1969 13/60 and one 3,89:1 in my 1966 Vitesse. Would it be possible to convert my 4,11 Herald diff to 3,63:1 by ordering the ”Stanpart” 3,63 pinion and gear? These parts are expensive, it would be frustrating to order them and later find out that they do not fit in my 13/60 differential.
  4. Interesting subject. I have had similar problems, and those #¤%&¤# rubber slivers have often been the root cause for leaking. But not always. I must have had my carbs apart at least 50 times. I don’t ned the manual anymore. My personal opinion is that even if you assemble them 100% by the book, on top of that the moon and the stars must align, the wind must blow in the right direction and the feng-shui must be good in your garage in order to avoid leaking Strombergs. My carbs are not leaking at the moment, so I will not refurnish or change the layout of my garage, it could cause bad karma.
  5. Welcome to the club and the forum Peter. What a beautiful car! I have the same car, same color but it is a Saloon with red interior (sadly dismatled at the moment). It was my daily driver for many years, bought it when I was 17 and still have it in my possession. Really fun cars to drive! You will find this forum very helpful and friendly.
  6. I didn't start it!!! I just mentioned that it is too cold here to test drive my new valve timing, and then all went south...
  7. It is a great (and daily!) opportunity for exercise given proper cloths and some planning and determination! Good for the environment, and it reduce my petrol and doctor costs. Not only did I learn to drive a car on the ice, I also rode my bicycle on snow and ice as a child. But without spikes back then! It’s not so difficult. But you can’t sleep on your bike going to work in the morning. If you don’t pay attantion and focus on what you are doing then it will hurt. Usually they plow the roads very well but not always. I took this picture of my bike going to work on a cold winterday a few years ago. I came to a part of the road that was not plowed yet. Another character building moment…
  8. The Åland Island is autonomous and we have our own goverment, flag and stamps. For some reason, the local post office started to sell "collector cars" years ago. I remember them very well, my father used to collect them and the Åland stamps. These cars are for sale only for a year, this year it is a Chevy, Opel and a Ford: https://alandstamps.com/collections/samlarbilar I have no idea how they choose models, I assume that one requirement could be that at least one car of that particular model was sold new here, but I'm not sure. I think "car #1" from 1996 was sold for about 150 € recently.
  9. Yes, winter tires with spikes are a legal requirement here from 1:st of december to end of february. You will get a fine if you don’t have them. But even with spikes (they are not big) it is till very slippery on hard ice. Imagine a Herald going sideways at 60 mph! It was increadibly fun, unfortunately I can’t find any old pictures from those adventures. Even with only 50-60 horses you can easily drive sideways with a Herald on ice. The kids call it drifting nowadays, as if it was some kind of a new invention. But it was not without risks driving on ice. We have more than 6000 islands in the Åland arcipelago and we learned not to drive between two islands that where close to each other since there is current between them hence the ice get thinner there. Which you don’t see when you look at the ice! I also think it was a good experience for a young driver to be able to press the car to its limits without fear of crashing into something. I’m sure it made me a better driver so I knew my car very well when I finally got my driving license at 18. The only downside was probably that my beloved Herald suffered a lot howling on top revs for hours! I will take pictures of my Herald wheels with spikes when I find them. In the meantime, two pitures taken today. The factory I work at is 5 km away so I ride my bike to work every morning. Also in winter. With spikes on my bike tires!
  10. Are we talking snow and cold winters here? Well, hold my beer!! The Baltic Sea always got frozen in the past so I used to drive my Herald on the ice between smaller islands in our archipelago. It got a bit riskier in the spring when the ice got thinner so the brave (or stupid) guys used to drive with car doors wide open. That way you won some time to get out of the car if it went through the ice. But it was extremely fun to drive on ice. No driving license required (I started to drive on ice when I was 14) and no speed limit on the ice. One winter it was minus 30 Celsius and I saw a car window crack from the thermal chock when it came into a warm garage with +20 Celsius inside and a fan blowing there. Despite a lot of snow and low temperature I think we manage to drive without any major problems. We know it is coming and we plan and prepare accordingly, I guess it is different if you get snow once in a decade. The only memory of cold and ice related problems I have is that ferries where small when I was a child and they would get stuck in the ice so we sometimes got isolated on our island. We have quite a lot of mosquitos in the summer and they can be a real pain. It is quite common that you hear someone cheerfully say "No mosquitos today!" when checking the outdoor temperature and finding out that it is lower than minus 20 C. Always look on the bright side of life...
  11. That is EXACTLY the problem I have with my engine! I can't wait to test drive after I have checked & adjusted this. But it is minus 10 Celsius on The Ă…land Island and plenty of snow at the moment, so it will have to wait a month or two. I used to have studded winter tires on my Herald when it was my daily driver, I think I still have them somewhere, but the rubber must be 40 years old.
  12. Just a prototype, but has potential... I have to manufacture that TDC tool made of sparkplug and a stud to find true TDC, then I can start adjusting the valve timing
  13. Thank you John! Another clever method to consider. I plan to renovate a Mk II engine (maybe the one with rusty cylinder head studs) and I will definitely make sure that I get valve timing spot on while there is no cylinder head on it.
  14. Another thing that should have been mentioned in WSM on page 1.126!
  15. Thanks Dan, that is my plan. I already bought a second dial gauge a week ago. Doesn't have to be an expensive one since the actual value does not have to be accurate as you mention. I removed the cylinder head not long ago, I really regret not checking this then. Learning the hard way as usual...
  16. This forum topic is dedicated to all errors you might find in Triumph Workshop Manuals, or things they did not explain properly in the workshop manual (missing information). I put this under "Forum help and suggestions" since I could not find any better place for it. Admin, feel free to move it. First topic: Fig. 57 In the red GT6 Mk 1,2,3 & Vitesse 2-Litre manual (Part No 512947, ISBN 0 907073 90 5) on page 1.126. This drawing shows the camshaft lobe 1 & 2 looking at the engine from behind the car. Also, missing information: The point of balance shown in Fig 57 and Fig. 59 can be found at TDC for cylinder 1 on the end of exhaust stroke when the distributor rotor arm is pointing at cylinder 6. The reason for opening up clearance to 1 mm is that otherwise valve 1 & 2 would be slightly open at this point of balance, hence no clearance to be measured with standard 0,25 mm clearance. This was discussed in this thread:
  17. I agree 100%! As Pete said "bit of Triumph daftizum". This is what Triumph engineers forgot to add in WSM on page 1.126 and 1.127: 1) Always turn engine and camshaft clock-wise (looking at engine from the front of the car) during the valve timing. 2) The point of balance is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. 3) The reason for opening up the clearance on rocker 1 & 2 to 1 mm is that these valves would otherwise be slightly open at the point of balance and there is no clearance to be measured. Hence, the balance / imbalance can not be measured with standard 0,25 mm clearance. 4) Drawing 57 on page 1.126 is incorrect. It shows the camshaft lobe 1 & 2 looking from behind the car. It's of course %&¤# obvious now after cranking the engine 500 turns observing lobes, debating here, looking at (incorrect) drawings etc, but sometimes the information in WSM can be really misleading. We should write a new edition and include all missing info and correct all errors! Might be a new topic for the forum.
  18. None! The inlet valve opens way before the point of balance at exhaust TDC so there is no clearance to be measured. I would probably have to increase clearance from WSM 1 mm to 3 mm (or more) in order to be able to measure and define the difference which does not make sense. This is what made me so worried that I did something wrong. Happy new year everyone!
  19. No worries, I learned a lot about valve timing when cranking my engine by hand looking at the lobes, and I'm quite sure that my valve timing is not correct. It will be interesting to start the engine after re-adjusting the valve timing and see if I have found my missing horses!
  20. Thanks, I have to make one. The endoscope camera works fine as a "sanity check" to see if the mark is way out, but I will need one of those tools when I do the valve timing.
  21. Unless you increase rocker clearance to 1 mm, then none of the lobes will operating the valves even if you turn the cam 180 degrees. I think this is the point that creates confusion!
  22. Thank you Graham, this was vey helpful and correlates with my interpretion of the WSM. I had to go to the garage and test your statement above and for me it seems to be correct when turing my engine. The only thing that does not seems to be correct is the fact that my inlet seems to open too early when doing this.
  23. Ok, on the picture below I Have turned the camshaft 180 degrees. So if the exhaust is just about to open here, and the inlet is just about to close: Which stroke has just been completed, and which stroke begins at this point? Where is the poston at this point of balance?
  24. Well, to add some confusion: Drawing 57 seems to be incorrect on page 1.126 in WSM (Alternative, it is a drawing that shows the camshaft looking from behind the car). The pictures below shows the camshaft looking from the front of the car and the camshaft is here turned so that the point of balance is upwards. On the drawing it looks as lobe #1 (exhaust) is pointing to the left, but in reality it is lobe #2 (inlet) that points to the left. Hence, exhaust is about to be closed and inlet valve is about to open if the camshaft goes CW. Still not convinced.
  25. I must be daft, but this do not make sense to me for two reasons: 1) You mention that exhaust valve is just beginning to open. That does not happen with piston at TDC. The exhaust valve opens when the piston is at the bottom (BDC, or actually just before BDC) so that the piston can push out exhaust gases on its way up. 2) The sequence of events does not make sense to me either. If the inlet has just been closed (inductions stroke just completed) then the piston is also at (or close at) BDC after just completing the induction stroke, and the piston has sucked petrol/air into the cylinder on its way down. The sequence of the strokes are induction-compression-power and exhaust, and I just cant see that happening in that order as you describe it. Maybe some champagne will make me see the light, this is confusing… Thanks for your patience Johny.
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