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fizzgig656

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  1. So the case is different slightly. Are the crown wheel and pinions the same. Rimmerbros has them listed as the same part 502127 for 3.7 ratio for 2000/2500/pi tr2-6 and stag? I've heard/seen the bmw e30 diff and subframe conversion. Is there any other options too? Just thinking...
  2. Yes. Nearly 4 so I'm guessing 3.7 but I hate guessing.
  3. So could it have already been replaced by a 2000 2500 pi or tr6 diff?
  4. I think I've unearthed it. LE I think? Anyone else? Am I right in think the stag had lockheed version in 3.7 ratio? But there are other simular diffs in lockheed or girling with 3.45 to 4.11 ratios? Yet they all look the same? Am I right in thinking lockheed and girling had different locking pins on the rear cover? Also looking at rimmerbros website the crown wheels mount differently. But are the bearings etc the same? Are the carriers the same? Cheers
  5. Ok thanks. Where abouts? Has anyone got an example? I've been over the thing and these were all I could find. I guess it is there just covered in Greece dirt oil and rust?
  6. Hi all, it's been a while but can you confirm if this is a stag diff?
  7. Ive got to go for the MOT so i ask them......cheers
  8. Ok thanks. I don't think there far out. But it would be nice to know.
  9. Bump.. anyone got advise on setting headlamps? Process using tape and a wall?
  10. I've just checked the Haynes book. It states it can be done separately but suggests fitting the engine first then fitting the box from underneath. So I guess it depends if you have enough room under the car (car lift or pit) to get under the car and manoeuvre the box. personally I think I would do it as one unit, but then I've not had to do it yet on a stag. Hope it helps.
  11. How did you remove them, as one or seperately. I cant think what the haynes book states but could checked later. Ive got am inkling its together, i think the bolts are hard to get too. but im sure someones done all ways possible and can advise the best way! It might depend of your space aove and below the car.
  12. I'm not a spitfire boy either but if it was ok when you laid it up for winter and now not working Is their any signs of mice? I though spitfires had dip dim lights as standard so what's the unit mentioned to do? Where is it? Is the car negitive or positive earth? I thought the main light switch feeds the dip lights/full beam switch and front/rear side lights, switching dip to full should change the connection before it. was this with the car running? Have tried switching to fill beam with the headlights unplugged?
  13. I cant seem to add the pic to the thead, only as an attachment.
  14. Right Ive now changed the 2 outer lights to be dip/full ones and left the inners to be high beam only. After buying a pair with side lights and not having much luck fitting them (and not liking the look) ive bought 2 H4 lights without side light and fitten them as below. the reason for the set up was a happy median between resiliance of fuse failure taking out all the lights and not installing to many fuses and relays. Ive reduced the load going through the main light switch by feeding the full beam by a new 25a fused relay. The reason for the other relays is H4's should switch between dip and full not have dipped on and full at the same time. I could do with some advice on setting the beam patten correctly, IE anyone got a good process for setting them against a wall but drawing lines for each light's horizontal and vertical position then moving the car back and adjusting the lights to be X amount lower and to one side?
  15. Has anyone done this, H4 outers and H1 inners on a stag? Im guessing ive got to rewire a little as the outers are currently dip and always on, then inners come on when full beam is switched on. so im going to have to ensure the dipped lights go out when ful mean goes on as i uderstand it H4's should alternate between dip and full not both!
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