fizzgig656

So the case is different slightly. Are the crown wheel and pinions the same. Rimmerbros has them listed as the same part 502127 for 3.7 ratio for 2000/2500/pi tr2-6 and stag? I've heard/seen the bmw e30 diff and subframe conversion. Is there any other options too? Just thinking...

Yes. Nearly 4 so I'm guessing 3.7 but I hate guessing.

So could it have already been replaced by a 2000 2500 pi or tr6 diff?

I think I've unearthed it. LE I think? Anyone else? Am I right in think the stag had lockheed version in 3.7 ratio? But there are other simular diffs in lockheed or girling with 3.45 to 4.11 ratios? Yet they all look the same? Am I right in thinking lockheed and girling had different locking pins on the rear cover? Also looking at rimmerbros website the crown wheels mount differently. But are the bearings etc the same? Are the carriers the same? Cheers

Ok thanks. Where abouts? Has anyone got an example? I've been over the thing and these were all I could find. I guess it is there just covered in Greece dirt oil and rust?

Hi all, it's been a while but can you confirm if this is a stag diff?

Ive got to go for the MOT so i ask them......cheers

Ok thanks. I don't think there far out. But it would be nice to know.

Bump.. anyone got advise on setting headlamps? Process using tape and a wall?

I've just checked the Haynes book. It states it can be done separately but suggests fitting the engine first then fitting the box from underneath. So I guess it depends if you have enough room under the car (car lift or pit) to get under the car and manoeuvre the box. personally I think I would do it as one unit, but then I've not had to do it yet on a stag. Hope it helps.

How did you remove them, as one or seperately. I cant think what the haynes book states but could checked later. Ive got am inkling its together, i think the bolts are hard to get too. but im sure someones done all ways possible and can advise the best way! It might depend of your space aove and below the car.

I'm not a spitfire boy either but if it was ok when you laid it up for winter and now not working Is their any signs of mice? I though spitfires had dip dim lights as standard so what's the unit mentioned to do? Where is it? Is the car negitive or positive earth? I thought the main light switch feeds the dip lights/full beam switch and front/rear side lights, switching dip to full should change the connection before it. was this with the car running? Have tried switching to fill beam with the headlights unplugged?

I cant seem to add the pic to the thead, only as an attachment.

Right Ive now changed the 2 outer lights to be dip/full ones and left the inners to be high beam only. After buying a pair with side lights and not having much luck fitting them (and not liking the look) ive bought 2 H4 lights without side light and fitten them as below. the reason for the set up was a happy median between resiliance of fuse failure taking out all the lights and not installing to many fuses and relays. Ive reduced the load going through the main light switch by feeding the full beam by a new 25a fused relay. The reason for the other relays is H4's should switch between dip and full not have dipped on and full at the same time. I could do with some advice on setting the beam patten correctly, IE anyone got a good process for setting them against a wall but drawing lines for each light's horizontal and vertical position then moving the car back and adjusting the lights to be X amount lower and to one side?

Has anyone done this, H4 outers and H1 inners on a stag? Im guessing ive got to rewire a little as the outers are currently dip and always on, then inners come on when full beam is switched on. so im going to have to ensure the dipped lights go out when ful mean goes on as i uderstand it H4's should alternate between dip and full not both!

Ok thanks Mike. Looks like 2 h4 and 2 h1's then..

Thanks John it's good to hear someone remembered it and it's encouraging to hear your thoughts. I've moved just over a year ago and a lot of time has been taken up on the house. Plus not having some of my stuff set up doesn't help. I did make a dipstick a while back and finished the oil pump and started to work out the dizzy. I'll upload some soon. I've had people ask me about the link I put on other forums etc to the old thread, that now don't work after tssc starting again. I'm just waiting to be able to link to this new one For guests. I am missing a few photos that other uploaded answering some of my questions. But hey Ho.

Ok thanks very much for all the advice. i dont do much night driving in the car but any move from sealed beams will be an inprovement. Full beam is low outputs. maybe ill try the H4 H1 set up first. unless anyone else tells me they've got all h4's and find it so much better!.

no, all taken at positive advise. I though (not 100 sure) they were seperate One dipped and full only. thinking about it now im not sure. typically ive had it in my mind for a while ill need to do something soon, then this moring the O/D dip went so my hands are forced now! So it m,ight be better to just go H4 and H1? any thoughts on the link to ebay item 400674140206. linked above?

Hi all, opinions please, Looking to replace the 4 headlights on my Stag advise on which it use and stick with 2 + 2 full dip setup or 4. 1, Now i know one is dip and the other full beam each side. Do i do H4 replacements on all 4? so 4 full/dip? Is this legal? 2, Any thoughts on what headlight to use? any to avoid? Ive seen these they do come with umbrella's! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400674140206?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Ok. Thanks. Will we be advised when it happens?

Sorry moderators if this shouldnt be started here. Question; who can view our threads? How can non members view threads we create? I've tried signing out then viewing the forum and can't. Other forums I'm on you can still see and find out info Without signing in. Posting replies do require you to login which is fine. can I link to one of these threads on Facebook for instance?

Starting nearly 3 years ago during a quiet time at work- mainly during my lunch break, I planned to use scraps of metal and bits n bobs (mainly) form IT components (CD drives, hard drives etc) to make a 1/6th scale model (as close as possible) using just inexspensive hand tools, with all part moving and functional as they should. I was hopeing it could "start" and run for a second or two on petrol just to prove it works. Obviously i had to accept some things couldn't be 1/6th of the thickness etc to fully work and some things like oil ways dont run exactly the same, but the point is they should feed the same points, do the same job.eg the oil "should" pump to the big/little ends crank shaft cam shaft etc! Up until starting on the engine I had only used files, hammers, cordless drills, hand taps, gas burner and durafix easy weld etc. I did Buy some U ali strips for the chassis, some bolts and threaded rod, sprung steel for the rear leaf spring, the front coil overs and shocks plus diff were from an old rc car. Then I did buy a small lathe to make the crank and cam shafts. I struggled on my first attempts without the lathe. In fact had a few failures withe the lathe... This was something ongoing for over a year while i was bored at work and work was volume was low (could do a few bits at my desk during my lunch). unfortunately ive not had chance to do much for over a year now since moving and NOT getting my lathe/shed set up. Ive even got a small oil pump to work. ill try to find more photo's. The only issue so far is creating enough pressure for the brake cylinders to work, or I've made the cylinders with too much resistance.

sorry there isnt the info,posts and other comments from the old forum but i had someone ask for a pic. here they are.