Rich

Hi Pete, Ive tried to up load a photo but having problems. The distributor says Lucas on the vacuum/diaphram pipe and i cant see any other numbers apart from the A R on the right hand side opposite the vac/diaphram. Ill try and put a photo in later. Regards Rich

Hi Pete, Sorry not got back to you sooner but it's definitely got a cable driving the tacho, I'll have a better look tomo rrow with some numbers. Many thanks Rich

Pete many thanks, hopefully will last slightly longer than the last one. Regards Rich

Hello all, Many thanks for all your replies. i managed to get a stabiliser from James P and found that its a solid state one but in the same guise as the original bi-metal one. Anyway fitted it today and both guages are working . I put the multimeter on the B terminal and got a good 12-13v and on the I terminal a good 12v. Kinda suspect that i should be getting 10v on the I terminal going to the guages! Could this be due to it being a solid state device? The broken original only pushed out 6 - 8v? Its fitted anyway so i suppose i should check the output with the engine running and all the earths back on which may drop the out put volts. Regards Rich

Hi sorry to jump on this thread but I'm trying to confirm what distributorI have in my Vitesse. It's a mk1 with a 2.5 MG engine and runs a Lumination electronic ignition. I just need to know what the distributor is so I can buy spares etc Many thanks

Cheers Pete All the best Rich

Hi many thanks for the replies, The stamps were unreadable Pete but i think its a normal 3 rail (can see 3 rails) triumph box with a D type overdrive. many thanks Rich

Good afternoon all, After an afternoon fettling changing gearbox oil and overdrive filter i was intrigued to see what gearbox i actually have. I looked at the numbers but where unreadable, the only number i could see was P128? The overdrive is a D type. Thanks in advance Rich P.S the reverse is left then up also on the gearbox

Pete many thanks for your reply, ive ordered another 'traditional' stabiliser so hopefully will all be ok, Regards Rich

Many thanks Pete, Ill have a look once i get it through the post. In regards to the swapping of wires around on the sender, i put the neg on the pos and visa versa and it read 3/4. Could this be a fix or as you originally stated its just earthed to neg? Many thanks for all your help by the way, you should open a garage

Ok, so i swapped over the positive with the negative on the sender and the gauge read 3/4! This is whats in the tank. so could this be the cause? Or is this what you mentioned Pete by earthing the sender? I then checked the stabiliser at the back of the speedo and i got 12 volts from the wires going in and a pulsed 0 - 5-6 volts (sometimes a 9-10 volts) on the output wire which runs to the gauges. Im going to get a solid state stabiliser but has anyone fitted one of these and are they worth it? Thanks Rich

Pete many thanks for your advice, once I'm back in the garage I'll do some checks as you've discussed and put the finds on the forum. Regards Rich

Hi Pete temp gauge never goes up by more the. Couple of mm. Just off cold really, when she runs hot it's still just off the cold, never gets quarter to half reading. Regards Rich

Hi many thanks for all your replies. Pete, its a six hole sender with 2 electrical cables that attach in the centre. The needles move up slowly and seem dampened. Time to burn off some fuel

Hello all, After a fill up today i noticed that the fuel gauge only reads half even though the tank is full. Ive never filled the tank to full before so its the first time I've noticed this. All the other gauges and clocks work fine. The car is a MK1 vitesse cabriolet, any help of advice as ever is greatly received Many thanks Rich

Hi and thanks for your comments/ideas, the engine was originally off a 2500 saloon as the engine code starts with MG so I've no idea what the coolant pipe was originally for. Regards Rich

Hello all, In my mk1 vitesse the engine is a 2500 lump which has the coolant pipe connector on the back left of the engine. This is blocked off with a piece of coolant hose and bolt as its not required for the vitesse cooling system as it all runs well and doesn't over heat. The metal connector has now begun to leak where it is screwed into the cylinder head,my question is shall I just leave it for now and not risk snapping it off and creating more problems (tried taking it off when engine was cold and it wouldn't budge) or getting the engine hot and having another go? Hopefully someone has come across this before? Thanks in advance Rich

Many thanks Pete, I'd better start looking for the hasp and stable as there both missing on the triumph

That's vitesse not vI tease - dam predictive text

Hi sorry to jump on this thread but I've been having problems with my vitesse drivers door. I've finally got the gaps right but it's still a pig to close. It does look like the door quarter light frame is catching on the metal rail above the window (carbriolet). My question is naturally I still need to loosen the hinges and move the door around again to try and get a better fit and to stop it popping open whilst driving. Can I also undo the hinges on the actual door to move it out slightly? Reading this post it's made me think as when I look at the v I tease the drivers door is slightly further out at the bottom than it is on the top. Thanks in advance Rich

Thanks Pete Regards Rich

Hi all, Just got the vitesse back on the road and 'bang' a lady pulled out on me. Lucky I wasn't going that fast so once I stopped and looked at the damage all she had was a few marks on her alloy. The vitesse however looked quite bad initially but found out that the bar at the front had snapped due to rust and the front valance had become loose (rust again) . This rust and filler was all well hidden before the crash which just means another job to do earlier rather than later. The bonnet took some impact but looks like all i need to do is some realignment . Does anyone know we're I can get a decent second hand front valance and how hard are they to fit? Secondly I'm going to buy new bar ends as these are rotten too. I'll most probably get them off canley,are these a pain to fit also? I understand the bar ends must be welded once you cut off the old ones. Any help and advice greatly appreciated . Kind regards Rich

Hello Pete, Spoke to Canleys and they were really helpful. He told me he has had these before and just cuts the last 2 inches off the ends which makes sense as its a huge bend and not the same as the one I took off. Its fine now and well away from the brakes and with a quick spray of hammerite looks the part with no weakness of the spring. many thanks for all you help and advice Rich

So, managed to fit the new spring from Canleys tonight and Paul you were right in regards to some having a larger end on the spring and press onto the brake flexi hose. The car sits well and feels really tight less for the spring pressing on the flexi hose. So tomorrow I'm going to either heat it up and bend it away from the flexi or cut just above the flexi so to doesn't touch. Has anyone else ever had this problem? Thanks

Many thanks for all your advice, I'll see how she sits once I put the new spring in and write some feed back on here. Kind regards Rich