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Triumphgt6

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About Triumphgt6

  • Birthday 10/01/1942

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tregynon, Powys
  • Cars Owned
    Dolomite Sprint, Spitfire Mk111

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  1. After all your replies and advice, the rear carb float is still overflowing. Changed floats over, changed needles and seat. Maybe it is this newer fuel pump with too much pressure. It is supposed to be a 208493 part but has a domed roof. The old original one had a flat roof. Unable to repair as top bolt thread stripped. Before I buy yet another pump, can anyone recommend a low pressure pump for me. I do have a few other mad ideas to reduce the fuel pressure. (Good idea the car is insured for £18k)
  2. Further to my post last Monday I forot to mention that I did fit a new fuel pump , bought from a reputable supplier (No, not R.....s) in January and the engine ran in the garage without a problem while getting it tuned. Soon after it was tuned it has started to flood in the rear chamber. Fitted new floats and needle valves, no change. Even swapped over the floats, still floods. I am beginning to think it could be the fuel pump or is the tuning to fault. I can soon start that again (Although it was done by a friend who tunes Formula 1 cars). With it unable to get out of the garage safely I am missing this lovely weather. My other Triumph is a saloon.
  3. Finished building the car last year and ran it around last summer. This March had the carbs tuned and ran fine. Now the rear carb keeps overflowing, so bought new float and jet etc but still overflows after about 20 seconds. Adjusted the float as per the manual but still floods. Had the front float out and all looks ok. What next to stop it flooding?
  4. I have a 1967 Mk111 Spitfire, finished building last year. Used all summer but last twice out in November, the car has stopped suddenly and refused to re-start . First time after 15 miles around the village roads, next time after less than a mile. Next morning, starts straight away. No fuel problem and going to change distributor to electronic. But it has been suggested that the coil could be at fault, because it gets hot!!. I used it in the summer when the weather was warm. Can this be so about the coil?
  5. I have built a Mk111 Spitfire and around me are bumpy country roads. I am finding that the wires within the distributor (Condenser wire and L T Wire) which are held together by the contact set can come apart whilst driving. To solve this I am looking into converting the distributor to electronic. Any suggestions.
  6. Pete Thanks for your comments. Will look at gear lever first and whether I need a bush kit. Last thing I need is the gear box out. I have restored several Triumphs but hopeless when it comes to engines and gearboxes. Always get a friend to assist in that area, but he is away at moment with Formula 1.
  7. Spitfire 3 rail gearbox. Started to jump out when in reverse. No problem if I keep my hand on the gear lever. Not used car for 12 months whilst I completed the build of car (started with 3 wrecks and boxes of parts). Worked ok last summer. Gear box tunnel off and propose to take gearbox top cover off, or could the problem be with the remote control shaft. No experience of gearboxes. From first picture to second picture. Any advice would be helpful, or do I leave as it is and hope that I never need to reverse?
  8. I have the headliner, all clipped out ready to start gluing. Read the article in the Triumph DIY restoration book by Peter Williams and also an excellent article for fitting to a TR6 written by an American. Neither of these are specific to a Spitfire Mk111. Does anyone have any other articles, with pictures that I may refer to that cover my car.
  9. Is it possible to take Spitfire 1500 door shells (minus the door skins) and re-skin them with Mk111 door skins to fit into a Mk111 spitfire or does the profile of the shell have to be modified. Has anyone done this?
  10. Triumphgt6

    Cars

  11. I need to refurbish my clutch slave cylinder as it is leaking. Car up on ramps, pipework disconnected. I have the workshop manual. I have to undo the two bolts that hold the mounting bracket. They are on top and difficult to reach. If I get off not sure I could get them back on. Or do I have to go to the long method of removing the gear box cover.It is the original and well stuck down.
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