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Waynebaby

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Everything posted by Waynebaby

  1. From my experience getting the holes in the spring to line up with the holes in the spacer to line up with the holes in the differential can be a bit of a nightmare! Take your time making sure the studs are going cleanly into the holes in the differential, as it's quite easy to strip a thread in the casing. Ask me how I know!! Wayne
  2. Been having a similar problem with my Vitesse fitted with lumination electronic ignition, I had a similar issue with lumention optronic ignition. It turned out to be a faulty Power Module, so in disconnecting the Lumenition you may have isolated the problem. Wayne
  3. Keith, J & L Spares Ltd (01706 644210) in Castleton near Rochdale overhauled my Girling Powerstop servo back in 2017 when it started leaking fluid. It's worked well ever since. Unfortunately I can't find the invoice, so I don't know what they charged. Wayne
  4. If I remember correctly the fixing bolt has a waisted unthreaded portion part way along it's length. I screwed the wing plate thingy onto the bolt until it rested in the unthreaded part. This allows the sealing plate to "float" and helps prevent internal leakage caused by dodgy manufacturing tolerances in the machining of the recess in the block. Wayne
  5. Wagger gave a part no club for the club shop kit, when in shop section and tried a search, it says access denied?. Plowed through the listings and second to last was the adapter, though couldn't see repair kit? Hi. I got the part number (and the kit) by looking in the hard copy of the club shop catalogue and using the phone. (I've never managed to find/order anything I want using the on-line system!) I've also got the tee-shirt for trying to fit two square section O-rings in the groove in the block. Wayne (not Wagger)
  6. The club shop sells the service kit for the spin-off filter conversion. This includes all the seals and a new bolt Part number FC290SKIT. £10 + postage. Wayne
  7. Steering rack doesn't seem to have play in it. Did you see this simply by turning the wheel assembly back and forth and its effect on the steering wheel? If so I havent noticed such a large amount but can check again tomorrow Hi Peter, Sorry for the delay in replying. The play in the steering rack mounts was obvious when watching the rack whilst the steering wheel was waggled. The rack waggled back and forth along with the steering wheel . Wayne
  8. Peter When I first got my GT6 it used to try to climb on the pavement whenever I used the brakes. My problem turned out to be badly worn steering rack bushes which meant that the rack could float back and forth by about 1". I think that applying the brakes encouraged the car to head down the road camber and towards the gutter. Just a thought. Wayne
  9. I find that "Bike Pot Black" by Hermetite goes on well by brush and shows no sign of flaking from my exhaust manifold after several thousand miles (even if the contents of the tin must be >40 years old!) Sadly I suspect it may no longer be available. Wayne
  10. Check and then double check that the circlip is fully seated in the groove or you'll be doing this job again in no time at all. Ask me how I know! Wayne
  11. Try giving Mike Papworth a call. I imagine he'll have a few knocking around in his workshop. (07768 775170) Wayne
  12. I might be teaching you to suck eggs, but if you're planning to use this socket with an electric impact driver on your Churchill hub puller I'd recommend that you get an impact socket. I've had regular sockets split before the hub gave up when using a mains impact driver. Wayne
  13. Hi Roger, Here's a photo of my set up. The OD relay is to the right, the horn relay to the left (the one above is an aftermarket flasher unit for the hazards) I've also attached a photo of the OD inhibitor switch arrangement. Hope it helps. Wayne
  14. Hi Peter, The passage between the cylinder block water jacket and the block drain orifice is very narrow and awkward to locate. I've found it easiest to clear using a length of stiff wire aimed somewhere between 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock, prodding upwards in the direction of the cylinder head (if that makes sense) Wayne
  15. x2 for YS's comment. I ended up using a 1/2" lowering block on the same brand of spring even after a year of driving around with 75Kg of ballast tucked behind the seats. Wayne
  16. The John Thomason guide to originality states that from FH 100,020 onwards the door handles were finished in satin black, so perhaps that is what is prompting the memory. I'm wracking my brain to try to remember the finish on my 1500 spit back in 1980. It was definitely black, but I can't remember if it was shiny or not. Sorry charlieb
  17. From my own messy experience, I'd recommend that you take the filter cover off AFTER draining the gearbox oil! Wayne
  18. Hi TrafficMan, If it helps, I'm on my second spring on my Mk3 GT6 and both the new spring and the one it replaced (which I'm assuming was the original) sit on the differential case like yours. Wayne
  19. I had my Girling Powerstop 5156 rebuilt by JL Spares of Rochdale. +1 for JL Spares. They did an excellent job on my servo a couple of years back. Wayne
  20. Haggis, You mention you have a Lumenition ignition system. I had similar symptoms on my GT6 which eventually turned out to be a faulty Lumenition power unit. I swapped this for a new one and haven't had the problem since. The only issue is that a new power unit is pretty pricey, so you'd probably want to rule out everything else before going down that route. Wayne
  21. Louis, If you still want to go down a V8 route then Tim at Willow Triumph (near Darlington in the North East) has quite a bit of experience in fitting Rover V8s to Spitfires and Heralds. I've attached a link to one of his projects.Tim's an approachable bloke and might be able to give you some pointers over the phone. Wayne http://www.willowtriumph.com/page7.htm
  22. Waynebaby

    Bag of Sand.

    7 is the noise my Mintex pads made before I fitted anti-rattle springs, so he's definitely over charging.
  23. I've found out the hard way that it is important to doubly check that the spring washer is securely seated in its retaining groove in the gear lever when reassembling things. This washer holds down the smaller diameter spring if I remember correctly. If the washer slips from its groove and lets the spring press on the base of the nylon cup thingy it'll soon wear through and before you know it the tunnel has to come off again. I try to reuse the original spring washer because it seems to be a better fit in the groove. Wayne
  24. Hi Neil, I can't think why your plan wouldn't work. If you're working on your own however I suspect it'll be more a case of dragging the diff/spring/half-shafts/vertical links/brakes across to the other chassis (unless you're super-strong) because there's a lot of weight there! Wayne
  25. Charlie, You need a rear quarter panel. They're supplied by Newton Commercials but I suspect that you might get them cheaper from the usual suppliers. Rimmers have them in stock in various colours, Wayne
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