Waynebaby
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Everything posted by Waynebaby
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Charlie, You need a rear quarter panel. They're supplied by Newton Commercials but I suspect that you might get them cheaper from the usual suppliers. Rimmers have them in stock in various colours, Wayne
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Bob, I'm thinking about mirrors on my Mk2 GT6 as well - hadn't really thought about clip on mirrors -don't think I've ever seen one on a GT6 but sounds an excellent idea. Which make/supplier do you recommend? The club shop stock an overtaking mirror which clips onto the vertical trim just behind the quarter-light. From my own experience it is rather too easily knocked off and I spent so much time picking it off the floor that I've stopped using it (no photo unfortunately) If you're less clumsy than me though it's £28 + £ 6.95 p&p. Don't forget to log in with your membership number to get the club member discount. Wayne
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SP I'm happy to pass on what I've learned from my mistakes! The original rubber bushes at the front end of the radius arms are made of two concentric steel cylinders with rubber bonded between the two - the whole assembly is an interference fit in the eye and was pressed in hydraulically. This means that when the rubber is burned away the larger steel cylinder will remain in the eye, and this has to be removed before the Superflex bushes can be fitted. If you are fortunate this can be drifted out with a stout screwdriver and a hammer. If this doesn't work, then the steel cylinder of the old bush needs to be cut with a hacksaw (be careful or you'll damage the eye - once again, don't ask me how I know!) after which brute force and ignorance will free the remnants of the bush from the eye. When re-painting the radius arms, don't paint the inside of the eyes. The new bushes will push in with the aid of a vice. Wayne
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Regarding bushes, the spring from GB will come with new bushes fitted to the eyes at either end. These will only come out with a struggle, so you may want to stick with the ones that it comes with - I left mine in (but changed all the other bushes that you propose doing) and three years on the GB fitted bushes are as good as new. Removing the original bushes from the radius arms can also be problematic. The front bushes are especially hard to remove by mechanical means in my experience and over zealous use of the vice can make the eyes non circular (don't ask how I know!) I've found the easiest way to get the old rubber bushes out of the radius arms is to take them into the fresh air and burn them out with a blow torch. Stand up-wind because they'll produce horrible black smoke and then re-paint the arms before you fix in the Superflex bushes Wayne .
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There's a new listing for wheels (4.5 inch this time) on ebay from Spitfire Graveyard. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-MK4-1500-GT6-MK3-13-INCH-4-5J-STEEL-WHEELS-SET-OF-4/184073689867?hash=item2adba59b0b:g:DLEAAOSwM81d69-s
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1980 TR7 DHC rolling restoration - bye bye!
Waynebaby replied to Colin Lindsay's topic in My Triumph Restoration Project
That explains why you made such good progress Colin. I concluded many years ago that there must be a Deity with a particular interest in DIY car mechanics, since a blood sacrifice or at least some physical pain is invariably involved in a successful session in the garage (or maybe I'm just clumsy) Wayne -
There's a set on ebay, but they look a bit pricey to me. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-5-Dunlop-Oval-hole-Wheels-Triumph-Spitfire-GT6-Vitesse-Herald/303390384051?fits=Car+Make%3ATriumph|Model%3AGT6&hash=item46a379dfb3:g:GN4AAOSw8Otd1TeW
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Hi Pete, Mine leaks with either the pancakes that were fitted by a PO or with the original set up (which I'm running now), so that's a dead end I'm afraid. Wayne
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Iain, If it is any comfort, I have the same trouble with my choke mechanism and I've never been able to resolve the problem (so I'm hoping that you figure it out!) Like you, my fuel leak started after I'd refurbished the carbs and like you I can't see how the design of the mechanism can do anything other than leak down the spindle.The fuel comes out as you describe and then drips down into the suspension upright directly below. As with your carbs it only does this when the choke is actuated, which is why I've not been too keen to disturb the carbs to resolve a short lived problem - I had a nightmare with rubber slivers upsetting the needle valves and have been paranoid about moving the bundy tube ever since!. My fuel pump is the standard mechanical variety so that may save you suspecting your electric pump is the issue. Wayne
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Colin/Nigel, Many thanks for the pointers on the Classic Driving Development ball jointed anti-rollbar links. Replacing the perished items with those is definitely going to be added to the "to do" list of jobs over the winter. Wayne
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Hi All, I've noticed that the rubber bushes on my GT6 ant-roll bar links are starting to crack up after only a two or three years on the car. I know that surface cracking on bushes doesn't necessarily condemn them, but these cracks look rather more significant to me. I'd appreciate the opinion of someone with a more experienced eye as to whether or not I should change the links sooner rather than later. Assuming the bushes make the links no longer serviceable, does anybody know of a supplier whose wares last more than a couple of seasons? (I suspect that they all come from the same place) Wayne
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The Mk2 has a single hanger at the tailpipe end of the box whereas the Mk3 has a hanger at either end. The Mk3 also has slightly longer tailpipes which are angled upwards slightly. I don't know if there is any overall difference in dimensions of the box itself. If you take a look on either the Canley Classics or Rimmer Bros. websites these show diagrammes/photos of both types.
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I've had similar issues after bleeding the system and found that jamming the brake pedal down - I used a cut down walking stick under the steering wheel - (which speaks volumes about the demographic of this forum!) for 24 hours cured the soft pedal. I don't know if my problem was down to bubbles in the silicone fluid or sticking caliper seals, but the stick trick sorted it. Wayne
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If you're really concerned about what the ethano0l might be doing to the fuel system then these folk have an (expensive) solution. I'm considering it for my motorbike (a 96 KTM Duke) which has a plastic tank that is beginning to swell from exposure to E5. https://classicfuelsolutions.co.uk/
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The speed of delivery from Canleys is always very impressive. There doesn't appear to be front or back to the spring (there are several theories as to where the instruction about directionality came from) so it doesn't matter which way around you fit the spring itself. Some people seem to prefer to make sure that the head of the bolt that passes through the sping box faces the front to minimise corrosion on the thread. Wayne
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I'm struggling to find a link myself. I got my inter-leaf buttons (also called thrust buttons) three or four years ago and can't for the life of me remember where I got them from. I've looked through the Super pro and Polybush listings and cant see anything. I note that the club shop sells the swing spring pad so it might be worth giving Angie a call to see if the shop also stocks the inter-leaf buttons. Wayne
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The ineptitude demonstrated by the “professional mechanic” beggars belief. If you are going to separate all the leaves will you take the opportunity to replace the rubber inserts that sit between the leaves with polyurethane buttons? Hopefully a fit and forget modification.
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The fifth clamp definitely should be binned. When I replaced my spring I didn’t need to dismantle the whole assembly to get the the plate in between the lower two leaves. If you shove a large bladed screwdriver between the leaves and twist it through 90 degrees you should be able to open things up enough to wiggle the plate into position.
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The diff, despite being allegedly refurbished and from a reputable Triumph supplier howled almost as badly as the one it replaced and so I used the casing issue + the noise as a justification to get it rebuilt by Mike Papworth with a flashy alloy case (see below). It turns out the bearings were absolutely shot because after the "refurbishment" the casing still contained a not insignificant amount of grit left over from the blasting process used to clean it! Needless to say the diff that Mike built me is whisper quiet.
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The stud is on the bottom, so all the force from the hold-down studs is pressing through a single point in the middle of the plate, which is probably what has buckled it. I've attached pictures which shows where it is on the spring and the hole it should locate in on the top of the diff. You might be able to see that for some reason not all of the stud holes on my old diff weren't blind (you could see down them into the diff) which was how I managed to screw in one of the studs so far that I forced the unthreaded section into the hole and cracked the mount. - D'oh! Wayne
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Sorry if I set you off worrying about lowering blocks Badwolf! Trying the standard setting first sounds like a good plan especially as the provenance of your spring is a bit uncertain. It should be obvious by eye and when you drive it the first time whether the spring height is OK after the spring has been relocated properly on the diff. In the case of my new spring the camber of the wheels was significantly positive (\ - /) and the resultant oversteer nearly put me in the ditch at the first serious corner I came to. Fitting a block isn't too much of a hassle and doesn't need the spring to come out again. Put the car on stands, remove the studs, jack up both rear wheels and slide in the block beneath the spring. Refitting the studs can take a bit of jiggery-pokery to get all the holes lined up, and it's possible to strip a thread on the casing if you rush this (ask me how I know) Good luck Wayne
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As the spring is going to come out again and is new, you might want to consider re-fitting it with a 1/2" lowering block on top of the diff. From my experience a new springs seem to leave the wheels tipped out at the top (I can never remember if that is +ve or -ve camber!). Just to counter something Mjit said about the studs, I have managed to crack a diff casing before now by overenthusiastic tightening of a stud, so when the spring is off have a close look at the metal around the threaded holes in the diff just to make sure someone at the garage hasn't made the same mistake. Wayne
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I had a "soft" misfire on my GT6 which I traced to the incorrect setting of the spring "blade" on top of the Delco rotor arm. If it isn't set high enough it doesn't make proper contact with the dizzy cap centre electrode. This may not be your problem, but it is a simple enough check. I've attached a picture showing the dimension you're looking for Wayne
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You definitely need something with a flexible spout to get the oil into where you need it. The access to the diff filler and the gearbox filler (if you haven't modified the gearbox tunnel to give access from inside the car) requires you to move the oil against the force of gravity and so either an oil syringe or a plastic 1l container that you can squeeze (like the Castrol one) is needed. With the 1l container approach you'll find that once you've squeezed out about half a litre of oil you can't get any more up the spout, so you'll need to keep re-filling it. I use this technique as I've yet to find an oil syringe which has a plunger seal resistant to gear oil! In my experience I've used them once, put them on the shelf and then found a few months later that the seal has perished. I'm pretty sure that providing the oil is API GL-4 it should be OK, but I confess to instinctively sticking to something branded. People have strong opinions about oil on this forum and so I'm sure you'll get some further advice. Wayne
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A friend of mine who had a Capri managed to clip the nearside verge on a county lane, resulting in a slow-motion roll of the car onto the drivers side. He thought that if he put his arm out of the window and pushed against the road he could prevent the car going onto its roof. He was sadly mistaken and it didn't end well - I can't now remember how many fractures his arm ended up with. Ouch.
