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Found 6 results

  1. Now before anyone gets the wrong idea I am not considering implants, but whether it is worth switching over from DOT 4 glycol based fluid to DOT 5 silicone based. My main reason for thinking of swapping is because I'm looking to repaint the bulkhead at some point in time, and having seen the mess that DOT 4 spills can have on paintwork, I want to try and avoid that in future. I know there are some fairly strong views on the pros and cons of silicone, but what I am interested in understanding is whether the swap can only be made to a freshly rebuilt system, or a system that has already used DOT4? Further to that, how do you flush all of the old DOT4 out of the system? My brake system has been sitting pretty much drained for the last 6 months, and roughly 50% of the pipes are new. Karl
  2. As those of you who have been following my 'How not to restore a Herald' thread will know, I found that my spare wheel well had started to resemble a colander as the photo below shows. I did look at replacing the entire well with a replacement panel, but at £150, a bit rich for my pocket. Therefore before I start bashing sheet steel in an attempt to fashion a repair panel, does anyone know if a repair panel is available commercially to save me the hassle? Karl
  3. My 1200 has been mucked about with over the years, and as a result is missing one of the brackets and nuts which retain the speedo. To be fair it's also missing all the correct screws to hold the dashboard in, but that's another story. Does anyone know where I could get the speedo clip & nut from? Karl
  4. My Herald has not been a great starter since I bought it 3 months ago, but the last couple of weeks it's just not starting. The starter motor felt very slow on turnover, and would emit a clunk from the bell housing. The battery is good, and chuck's out around 13.6V, so no issues there. The cabling between the battery and solenoid looked shonky, so I have replaced it along with the battery clamps, taking the opportunity to turn the battery around in the process. Still slow. So I took the starter motor out and cleaned up the Bendix gear as this was sticking. Here it is post clean up, and mounted in the vice for a bench test. The Bendix gear is no longer sticking, but even on the bench, connected directly to the battery, it doesn't feel particularly energetic. I've tried it back in the car, but no joy. I also tried bridging the solenoid contacts, but that made no difference. Therefore is there anything else I should try before getting a replacement starter motor? Karl
  5. First a confession, I haven't wielded a spanner in anger in about 15 years, ever since cars got so complicated that I had no option but to pay someone else to service and repair them. Therefore buying a 1968 Herald 1200 represented a leap of faith for both me and my long suffering wife, however we both love classics, having owned a Beetle (proper rear engined and air cooled), a 1966 Herald 1200, and a Mini, again a proper Mini not the BMW pastiche. So here is my car, purchased in July from a dealer in Aylesbury. Rust in all the usual places on the body shell, ie around the front wheel arches, lower doors and lower rear wings, however the underside is solid and doesn't need welding from what I can see so far. Under the bonnet there is some rot in the bulkhead around the heater plenum chamber. That's the worst of it. The other side is much better. The rest of the under bonnet area is as tatty as you would expect from an unrestored 48 year old car. Not sure if the gold cam cover denotes a replacement engine. Need to uncover the engine number under all that grime. I'm currently striping the horrible black paint off that a previous owner saw fit to daub on the bulkhead. Not sure about the battery set up. The car has been converted to + earth and an alternator fitted, however, the battery terminals are very close to the battery retaining clamp and I've managed to short it out a few times when tightening up the battery connection. I think I will have turn the battery around and fit longer + & - leads to keep everything safe and isolated. And finally a pic of the interior. Carpets have been removed as they were faded and stinky, which has revealed a remarkable sound floor area. The dash is a bit of a state and requires sanding and refinishing. Some of the switches don't work, or are loose, so I can see me sorting that out over the winter. I've already fitted new HT leads, distributor cap and rotor arm, all of which have improved performance noticeably. I'll post more updates as I undertake more jobs on the car. Karl
  6. Hi all Unfortunately, time hasn't allowed me to get to any events where I would have been able to check this out so any advise would be appreciated. Can anybody advise on how the indicators & side lights interact/work on 1965 Herald? I've not got to the electrics yet (big project) but plan to have a good look this week and had noticed previously that the side lights come on and if the indicator is applied, the rear indicators flash and the front sides change from static to flashing. I'm OK with electrics so really just need an understanding of how they should work (as I'm guessing his isnt correct) if anybody could advise that would be great. Many thanks Gary
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