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Found 5 results

  1. Hi everyone, Is anyone able to identify this noise? I have had a local mecanic have a look at my car and he put a camera down the spark plug chamber and noticed a few marks on pistons 1 and 2 on the bore. He seems to think it could be Piston Slap. So when the car is cold and idling, it sounds quite loud (as shown in the video). Once warmed up, the sound at idle goes. However, when driving and putting load on the engine the noise comes back. Everytime when putting on load. I'm not a mechanic and my skills are limited to servicing and hope someone on this forum is able to help me in any way. Also, if anyone knows a good mechanic for these classic cars in Essex/Herts area, would be very grateful. Thanks Kev VID_20210712_094930.mp4
  2. Hi, I'm a past member of TSSC and organiser of the Grampian branch. In the 80s I dismantled a couple of cars and boxed up all the bits. Thirty years later i need to clear them out, so if any group or individual in Glasgow, Central or further afield wants the while shebang, get in touch with me. All tidy and labelled at the time, but thirty years later I'm promised nothing. Still pining for a nice triumph, but the closest I get is my standard Ferguson, which is a regular workhorse at 66years old. Watty Tel: 07731854617
  3. Our Herald 13/60 has an intermittent problem with fuel flow stopping and the engine cutting out. This was diagnosed as a faulty fuel pump. We went to Rimmer Bros and they supplied a universal replacement fuel pump. It had a different arm that slots into the engine and they said this was not an issue. Unfortunately it has been and after a couple of breakdowns the AA helped and the man kindly called an old friend who explained that there are a variety of different specific pumps across the range of Heralds depending upon the engine. Apparently the universal one can slip a bit and not pump as it should. Can anyone advise what we can do. Is there anywhere where the original pump could maybe be refurbished - or a supplier that might have the correct one. Any help would be great. The car runs fine for hours and then just cuts out as the fuel is intermittently not going through the system. I have attached images of the original pump and the universal one - the significant difference being the arm. Any advice much appreciated. Thank you.
  4. The fuel pump on my 1969 Herald 13/60 is not pumping any fuel. Is the best option simply to buy a replacement pump, or to try and rebuild it with a spares kit? Thanks.
  5. Hello everyone! I was a member many moons ago under Solo_Andy1989 on the old forum with a 1500 Spit. Anyway, I'm just about to finish my modern practical apprenticeship and so I've been looking at 13/60 Herald Saloons as a gift to myself if they give me a job after. My current car as it stands is a Nissan Micra, with a 1600 Almera engine and brakes and an electric water pump and home made pump controller (A bone stock looking granny spec '95 micra that does 0-60 in 8.3 seconds and can beat a Golf Gti makes for much hilarity). Nissan engines of this era intrigued me for a few reasons: 1. They use a distributor. The ignition coil is built into the distributor cap (although an external one can be used with a bit of a play), and the crank position sensor for the engine exists as an optical disc with slots where the points would be on a lucas dizzy, under the rotor arm. 2. They have a throttle assembly with an air flow sensor, throttle position sensor and idle control valve all built in. 3. The ECU's come both with and without imobilisers, and for £500-£600, you can have a reprogrammable daughterboard fitted and the ECU retuned for power, economy, torque etc etc 4. The ecu RPM output is sufficient to operate a Lucas Tachometer So, my plan is thus: Modify the top half of a Nissan 1.3 dizzy to fit the bottom half of Lucas dizzy Modify single carb Herald 13/60 intake manifold to take Nissan 1.3 injectors and fuel rail Manufacture an adaptor plate to fit the Nissan 1.3 (45mm) throttle/sensor assembly to the Herald 13/60 intake manifold Source second herald 13/60 head, rebuild modify to take a Nissan 1.3 coolant temp sensor Modify Herald 13/60 4-2-1 to take a Nissan 1.3 exhaust/lambda sensor Modify a Nissan Micra 1.3 engine loom to fit a 13/60 engine Modify a Nissan Micra 1.3 Immobiliser loom and ecu and fit under a 13/60 dash Modify the throttle cable accordingly Remove crank driven fan and fit electric rad fan (controlled my the engine ECU) I would expect this to do a few things: 1. Give me a fairly tidy and inconspicuous electronic fuel and ignition system with cheap, readily available parts. 2. Produce no extra power 3. Be infinitely more reliable than carbs and points 4. Make the car harder to steal It would also give me the perfect starting point for a serious power build. The idea would be to, after the novelty of fuel injection had worn off: Source second 13/60 engine bottom half, rebuild with US spec low comp pistons Fit larger 1.6 injectors Fit larger 1.6 throttle/sensor assembly (50mm) Fit Eaton M24 supercharger from a Polo 1.4 TFSI Fit 4-2-1 exhaust manifold Machine/source new crank pulley to gear for approximately 10psi Send to a man for tuning to approx 90hp Fit Vitesse brakes Lower car 1" all round Basically make it a little more torquey without resorting to changing the engine/gearbox/propshaft/diff etc like I would with a 1500, or the extra weight of a 6 pot. I considered fitting the Nissan 1600 engine, as it was originally designed for longitudinal mounting, but figured that wouldn't involve nearly as much tinkering! Any suggestions or (constructive) criticisms welcome :-) Andy
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